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Old 11-12-2007, 11:30 PM   #1
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Default engine break in

i just got a new losi aftershock and am breaking it in. i have a venom temp gauge on the truck and im also using an atomik microtemp. after warming the motor up and doing a couple 'figure eights' the temp said 245 on the venom and 185 on the atomik. i figured the higher temp was probably right so i richened up the mixture a little, ran a circle, and checked it again. the temp was the same so i richened it a 1/8th turn more(high speed screw, counter clockwise). still the same. i was told the first tank should be around 205-215. i ran the rest of that tank out watching very close to be sure it didnt go an higher than that. i guess what im asking is wh cant i get the temp down?

thanks

mike

btw it is around 45-50 degrees outside
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:45 AM   #2
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First off, you got a large discrepency in your temp gauges. You need to scan into the head area at the glowplug and move it around to get the highest reading. Sometimes you think your point straight in, but your off and most likely reading a cooling fin.

As for the first tank of break-in, I heat gun the engine to 200+F (160 is good enough with a hair drier if you don't have a heat gun), then run the engine at slightly higher idle and read the temps. Get the car off the ground so the wheels can free spin if needed. I monitor the temps and adjust throttle linkage and idle screw then the low needle first set to a rich setting but keeping the temps up around 180F or more but no more than 245F. Wrap foil on the head as the outside temp your running at with a rich setting will make the engine cold. Keep watch on the temps, because the engine will run richer as it breaks-in and will start to bog and get cold, so you'll need to start leaning each needle slightly as you go throough more tanks of fuel. I suggest maybe to install a hot glowplug so the engine will stay running under rich conditions when break-in your engine.
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:32 PM   #3
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You got it backwards dude! Putting foil on the head keeps it WARMER for LONGER - and it's clearly what you want, especially this time of year- colder days mean a colder sleeve, and a harder start. heat gun is ESEENTIAL - it'll help you avoid flipping your engine into lock, and then having to slip a screwdriver on the flywheel to get it free'd and then (inherently) scratching up your piston and sleeve in doing so!

1) Get a heat gun - it's worth the money
2) Get it to as close to 200 as you can wih heat gun, then start it and let it idle for 1/2 a tank - stop engine and PUT PISTON TO BOTTOM DEAD CENTER**** (this is KEY!!! DO NOT F THIS UP! - mark the flywheel so you know where BDC is)
this is called heat cycling- by heating it up, idling, and then putting to BDC and LETTING IT COOL DOWN TO BELOW 145!!! THis is a critical part of break in- you heat the sleeve, piston etc up so they expand (heat expansion) and then contract when you let them cool. LET IT COOL BEFORE RE-STARTING - do it again for 4-5 more HALF TANKS - in other words, run 1/2 a tank, before stopping engine and letting it cool.
3) Once you've run 3 tanks (6 heat cycles) through it, now you can take it off the bench of start running it around - KEEP MAX THROTTLE SET TO 50% ON YOUR RADIO. Run another 2-3 tanks this way- let it kind load up with fuel - just give it little tugs on the throttle- LITTLE... like 5 or 6, to kinda load up the engine with fuel- then give it a nice throttle snap to burn it through- pin the throttle (remember, ths will only yield 50% on carb, cause you set your radio that way!) ad hold it pinned for 2-3 seconds solid, so it burns through the fuel - blip it around the street this way - keep checking your temp- it's GOTTA be 200 or more for this - if its running at 160-170, lean out the main jet a bit then- to get it to 200.
4) Finally, adjust radio to let it go 100% throttle- you DONT HAVE TO PIN IT, just run it around, treating the throttle GINGERLY, but DO load it up and then give it some nice gas and run it aornd this way. REMEMBE TO KEEP HEAT CYCLING IN BETWEEN RUNS - PUT THE PISTON TO BDC AND LET IT COOL DOWN!!!

After this, you should basically have run 6-9 tanks through or so, and this is enough- from here you can run it how you want, and I always found engines tend to run better at 220-230, rather than 200... but i guess it depends on the mill..

good luck



Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
First off, you got a large discrepency in your temp gauges. You need to scan into the head area at the glowplug and move it around to get the highest reading. Sometimes you think your point straight in, but your off and most likely reading a cooling fin.

As for the first tank of break-in, I heat gun the engine to 200+F (160 is good enough with a hair drier if you don't have a heat gun), then run the engine at slightly higher idle and read the temps. Get the car off the ground so the wheels can free spin if needed. I monitor the temps and adjust throttle linkage and idle screw then the low needle first set to a rich setting but keeping the temps up around 180F or more but no more than 245F. Wrap foil on the head as the outside temp your running at with a rich setting will make the engine cold. Keep watch on the temps, because the engine will run richer as it breaks-in and will start to bog and get cold, so you'll need to start leaning each needle slightly as you go throough more tanks of fuel. I suggest maybe to install a hot glowplug so the engine will stay running under rich conditions when break-in your engine.
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:34 PM   #4
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You might want to read my post. I stated to wrap foil on the head, AS, the outside temp he is running at with a rich mixture will make the engine run cold.
Thats means, foil will make the engine run hotter.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ScudMan View Post
You got it backwards dude! Putting foil on the head keeps it WARMER for LONGER - and it's clearly what you want, especially this time of year- colder days mean a colder sleeve, and a harder start. heat gun is ESEENTIAL - it'll help you avoid flipping your engine into lock, and then having to slip a screwdriver on the flywheel to get it free'd and then (inherently) scratching up your piston and sleeve in doing so!

1) Get a heat gun - it's worth the money
2) Get it to as close to 200 as you can wih heat gun, then start it and let it idle for 1/2 a tank - stop engine and PUT PISTON TO BOTTOM DEAD CENTER**** (this is KEY!!! DO NOT F THIS UP! - mark the flywheel so you know where BDC is)
this is called heat cycling- by heating it up, idling, and then putting to BDC and LETTING IT COOL DOWN TO BELOW 145!!! THis is a critical part of break in- you heat the sleeve, piston etc up so they expand (heat expansion) and then contract when you let them cool. LET IT COOL BEFORE RE-STARTING - do it again for 4-5 more HALF TANKS - in other words, run 1/2 a tank, before stopping engine and letting it cool.
3) Once you've run 3 tanks (6 heat cycles) through it, now you can take it off the bench of start running it around - KEEP MAX THROTTLE SET TO 50% ON YOUR RADIO. Run another 2-3 tanks this way- let it kind load up with fuel - just give it little tugs on the throttle- LITTLE... like 5 or 6, to kinda load up the engine with fuel- then give it a nice throttle snap to burn it through- pin the throttle (remember, ths will only yield 50% on carb, cause you set your radio that way!) ad hold it pinned for 2-3 seconds solid, so it burns through the fuel - blip it around the street this way - keep checking your temp- it's GOTTA be 200 or more for this - if its running at 160-170, lean out the main jet a bit then- to get it to 200.
4) Finally, adjust radio to let it go 100% throttle- you DONT HAVE TO PIN IT, just run it around, treating the throttle GINGERLY, but DO load it up and then give it some nice gas and run it aornd this way. REMEMBE TO KEEP HEAT CYCLING IN BETWEEN RUNS - PUT THE PISTON TO BDC AND LET IT COOL DOWN!!!

After this, you should basically have run 6-9 tanks through or so, and this is enough- from here you can run it how you want, and I always found engines tend to run better at 220-230, rather than 200... but i guess it depends on the mill..

good luck
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Last edited by ezveedub; 11-13-2007 at 03:58 PM.
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Old 11-13-2007, 03:32 PM   #5
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Default my bad...

o totally- my bad dude- i did not read closely enough.
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Old 11-13-2007, 09:45 PM   #6
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thanks guys,

i appreciate the help

mike
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Old 11-14-2007, 06:19 AM   #7
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to all the veteran here.

is there another way of breaking-in the engine?

coz i know i read somewhere there is another way...

pls advice.
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Old 11-14-2007, 07:38 AM   #8
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2 important things to note is that you want to heat cycle the engine which is basically to get it up to operating temp with running at half throttle or so.
2nd is to make sure you are not running the engine to rich as this will accelerate wear.

Run the car/buggy/truck for a tank and let it cool with the flywheel turned so piston is at bottom dead centre.
After a 5/10 minutes run it again and gradually do this for a liter or so of fuel and then run it a bit longer inbetween cooling off.
But dont run it too rich that it 4strokes or is lazy, the new engines of today are of a much better quality than those of yesteryear.
After a liter with making small adjustments start tuning for performance taking note of temp as a guideline. 220/240 deg/f is around the mark you want to be.
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Old 11-14-2007, 07:58 AM   #9
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+1 on the heat cycle breakin
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Old 11-14-2007, 12:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.C View Post
to all the veteran here.

is there another way of breaking-in the engine?

coz i know i read somewhere there is another way...

pls advice.
You can run 2 tanks rich slightly high idle, cool down, then run 3 tanks slightly higher speed, cool down, then run the car on the ground. Keep temps up above 200 & below 240. Since the engine will change temps and run richer the more you run it, its best to keep it off the ground and monitor the mixture and temps. After 5 tanks, it should slowly change its tuning behavior. Let the engine cool down after every run. Try not to run back to back tanks all the time. I do recommend a low nitro 5-10% and high oil content 16-18% for the first break-in tanks. Fresh exposed aluminum will erode when exposed to oxygen and corrosive material. During break-in, your constantly rubbing the aluminum piston, exposing fresh aluminum. Thats why the first tanks of break-in are critical for a long lasting engine.
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Old 11-15-2007, 07:43 PM   #11
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nevermind...
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Old 11-15-2007, 07:59 PM   #12
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If you plan to keep your engine for a while or not sure how to full tune, run low nitro 5-10% and high oil content (12-18%) during your break-in. The extra oil will help to protect the engine during break-in and if you lean it too much, particularly if it has castor oil in it. Race or Pro blends only have 10-12 % oil, since less oil increases performance. Your not trying to get 100% performance during break-in. You'll be adjusting needle settings during this period. I'm running Omega 10% on my engines during break-in. I'll most likely use one gallon on three engines I have now, then switch to Maxy's when I done with the break-ins.
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Old 11-15-2007, 11:45 PM   #13
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im in canada right now, im getting a LRP .28 zspec on nov 17th. im planning on using the hear cycle break in method.

but like i said, im in canada so should i be doing anything different since the weather is anywhere from 0-30 degrees farenheight? (very very cold, still going to get colder too).
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Old 11-16-2007, 01:36 AM   #14
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You need to definitely heat that engine up! Also wrap foil on the head to keep it hot. I had to keep the heat gun close by just to dump some heat into the head while running, since it was cooling off with rich mixture and I didn't want to lean it out anymore. You'll know if its getting cold by the engine starting to bog down and hard to clear out with quick blips of throttle. Just keep it above 200 and below 245.
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Old 11-16-2007, 10:36 AM   #15
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I just broke an engine in two weeks ago here in michigan on a nice cold windy day. I used two layers of foil around the head and still had to keep my stocking hat over the engine to keep any heat in it.
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