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Old 12-31-2007, 12:48 AM   #16
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WOW looks like I did a way silly thing then! hehehehe.
I am a Traxxas Revo nut and our club is trying to strat up 1/10 ST racing so, Loving the revo I went for the Jato thinking it would be as good but reading this thread I guess not. O well I gunna put some develipment time into it and see how I go at racing it. Any tips for getting this little rockets up to race speed???

And please please dont say trade it
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Old 12-31-2007, 08:30 AM   #17
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The first thing that I would do is get tires for your track and then I would get steve slayden's setup on it, he races his jato. Then put the singlke speed conversion on it which makes for less rotating mass and quicker acceleration.
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Old 12-31-2007, 09:56 PM   #18
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The first thing that I would do is get tires for your track.
Its bloody hot down here right now it’s been over 108F every day for the last 5 days so I am waiting for the temp to drop bellow 95F to put in some serious testing time.
I have the following tires to try
Front
Pro-line edge
M3 Snake eyes
R3 Hot Shot
30 Series Bow Ties

Rear
Panther Step pins
30 series Bow ties
Standard Bow ties
M3 Snake eyes
R3 hole shots
M2 Gladiator
M3 Gladiator

I should find something that works in that lot



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Then put the singlke speed conversion on it which makes for less rotating mass and quicker acceleration.
Quicker Acceleration that’s the last thing I need!!! bloody thing will stand on its back wheels if the slipper is too tight. The only thing I am struggling with is the way the little bugger spins around on the spot when you get on the gas coming out of corners, I know 2WD is all about throttle control but you have to be able minimize this nasty little trate somehow

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Old 12-31-2007, 10:59 PM   #19
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The top plate is another weak spot. The jato is fun for like 5 minutes. Great straight line speed, at least on road. Yes, slayden races one. Pro driver and he uses a .12. Nobody ever mentions if he wins though?
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Old 01-01-2008, 08:54 AM   #20
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Yes, you're right, the top plate is a weak spot. I broke it by running into a curband broke off the two holes in the front.

FREAK, are you running the 2.5 or the 3.3 jato?
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Old 01-01-2008, 08:56 AM   #21
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I was looking into buying a used traxxas jato 2.5 and I just wanted to make sure that it is a good truck before I buy it.
very good if your into speed i have one and love it.
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Old 01-01-2008, 08:58 PM   #22
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Yes, you're right, the top plate is a weak spot. I broke it by running into a curband broke off the two holes in the front.

FREAK, are you running the 2.5 or the 3.3 jato?
I am running the 3.3, I picked it up 2nd hand for US$220 with extra wheels and tires from a guy I know and trust. The motor hasnít had much running and still have excellent compression. Since I got it all I have really done is stock up on a large number of different tires. I hope to do some testing later today. Our club currently runs 1/8th buggy, 1/8th truggy and open Monstertruck classes, We are trying to get a field of 1/10th STís up and happening so I donít want to go too silly until I am sure the class is going to take off. If it does I am thinking I will buy a .12 of some kind to down power the little thing. The 3.3 is way stoooopid in such a small car, great for bashing but overkill on the track. I hope a smaller motor might put the power to the ground a bit better.

But please please any set-up tips or parts to srtengther will be greatly appreciated.

Can someone give me the part number of the ďTOP PLATEĒ that has been mentioned as a week point, thanks
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Old 01-01-2008, 11:37 PM   #23
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tra5523
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:43 AM   #24
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Ya shitting me!!!!
That big, major structual component is prone to braking??? I have had a look over mine and cant see anything, where does it let go???

I keep braking the bloody rear shock tower, have done about 3 of the pricks now. NOT HAPPY

Well I spent a shit load of time over the track today and the tires that work the best on our track are M3 Snake eyes and M3 Gladiator II's.
Now I gota start on springs, shock and diff oils.
Our track is very rough, its in a public park and gets hammered by everyone with a new toy, kids on minni bikes and all sorts.
The surface is hard clay that is braking up so there are holes, ruts and lots of soft loose stuff both on and off the racing line.

Have any of you guys played around with different diff oils??? and if so how did the different oils affect the cars handeling???
Might help me save me some time testing
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:21 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by FREAK! View Post
Have any of you guys played around with different diff oils??? and if so how did the different oils affect the cars handling???
Might help me save me some time testing
Diff oils are very important and will definately change the cars handling. In my truggy I use 7000 in front, 15000 in center, and 5000 in rear. and in my buggy 5000 in front, 10000 in center, and 3000 in rear. Theres many different combinations us can use but I found these to work best for my driving style.

Increasing the weight in the front will help the car steer if you are pushing into the corners. The lighter weight in the rear will help the rear of the car to swing around (fishtail). With the center diff the heavier you go the more out-drive you will receive to the front and rear diff's.

Its trying to find the right balance that work for you and your driving style.
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Old 01-02-2008, 04:56 PM   #26
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Ummmmmmm, we are talking about Jato's here, how many diffs do you think a 2WD ST has
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Old 01-02-2008, 05:35 PM   #27
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Ummmmmmm, we are talking about Jato's here, how many diffs do you think a 2WD ST has
LOL, my bad. well if you get a 4wd
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Old 01-02-2008, 06:59 PM   #28
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hahahahahaha you just cant take a trick, check out my sig MT stands for Monstertruck.

Tiz all good
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Old 01-02-2008, 07:10 PM   #29
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please excuse me while I find my glasses. lol, oh I see it now! lol.
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Old 01-02-2008, 07:14 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FREAK! View Post
Ya shitting me!!!!
That big, major structual component is prone to braking??? I have had a look over mine and cant see anything, where does it let go???

I keep braking the bloody rear shock tower, have done about 3 of the pricks now. NOT HAPPY

Well I spent a shit load of time over the track today and the tires that work the best on our track are M3 Snake eyes and M3 Gladiator II's.
Now I gota start on springs, shock and diff oils.
Our track is very rough, its in a public park and gets hammered by everyone with a new toy, kids on minni bikes and all sorts.
The surface is hard clay that is braking up so there are holes, ruts and lots of soft loose stuff both on and off the racing line.

Have any of you guys played around with different diff oils??? and if so how did the different oils affect the cars handeling???
Might help me save me some time testing
That big structural component will brake where the roll bar attaches (take a look) and also near the front. At least that was my experience and about a few dozen other people I spoke with.
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