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Old 11-12-2007, 04:31 PM   #16
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ok! Here goes:

-I'm glad we got it straight about the 50ml bottle. the looks are deceiving!!

-About springs&oils, it all depends of what kind of track you'll be running on. If it has a mixture of small bumps, jumps, different types of curves, your better option is medium springs and oil arround 400 in front and 350 in the rear.

-Very soft combinations are only used in very rutted and bumpy tracks. Hard is only used on smooth and wide tracks (with the shocks in a more layed down possition).

-But first of all, you need to change the o-rings (little rubber donuts located in the hole were the safts go in and out of the shocks). They are the ones that keep the oil inside. if they are damaged or defective, the oil leaks out.

-Balancing: once fixed and full, press the socks one against the other,saft-end against shaft-end, to see if they compress at the same time or one does sooner than the other. Also, each one should go in all the way and rebound out to 2/3 8with 1/3 still inside.

Hope this helps....
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Old 11-12-2007, 04:46 PM   #17
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Just for fun - here is a visual for you:



The Losi bottle on the left is a 2oz. bottle (1oz = 29.5ml) and has filled 2 rear shocks off an MP777 SP2. These are the standard shocks, not big bore. You can see where the level is down to. The bottle on the right is a Mugen 50ML diff oil bottle I placed there for a size reference.

Here are both bottles. The approx. 60ml Losi bottle is slightly larger in diameter than the 50ml Mugen bottle:



Hope that helps you get an idea of how many shocks you could fill from a bottle.
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Old 11-12-2007, 04:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR ZAIRUS View Post
ok! Here goes:

-I'm glad we got it straight about the 50ml bottle. the looks are deceiving!!

-About springs&oils, it all depends of what kind of track you'll be running on. If it has a mixture of small bumps, jumps, different types of curves, your better option is medium springs and oil arround 400 in front and 350 in the rear.

-Very soft combinations are only used in very rutted and bumpy tracks. Hard is only used on smooth and wide tracks (with the shocks in a more layed down possition).

-But first of all, you need to change the o-rings (little rubber donuts located in the hole were the safts go in and out of the shocks). They are the ones that keep the oil inside. if they are damaged or defective, the oil leaks out.

-Balancing: once fixed and full, press the socks one against the other,saft-end against shaft-end, to see if they compress at the same time or one does sooner than the other. Also, each one should go in all the way and rebound out to 2/3 8with 1/3 still inside.

Hope this helps....
that is super helpful, but your treating me like im a competitive racer. i dont care if all the shocks aernt 100% balanced (how bad can they be??). i dont know how many times ive said this but I DONT RACE i just wanna get this buggy up and running just to bash around, no tracks, no other cars around. ive only got about 20 mins experience with an rc car.

im figuring i want it to have a fairly stiff suspension and fast rebounding, what would you recommend for that setup?

ps: carolinas rc still hasnt gotten back to me, ive bought off them about 4 times now, i wonder why they aernt answering my email...
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Old 11-12-2007, 05:20 PM   #19
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I know you don't race, which actually makes it harder for us to recommend a spring/oil combination for you since you will more than likely be running all sorts of places we don't.

Here is a general guide to springs and oil, and what each setup accomplishes in regard to handling. My best advice to you would be go for a middle ground setup (Not too soft and not too stiff). You may not be racing but you still don't want a shitty handling car:

Springs

Stiffer
Stiffer springs make the car feel more responsive, more direct. They also help the car jump a little better and higher. Stiff springs are suited for high-traction tracks, which aren't too bumpy.

Softer
Softer springs are better for (mildly) bumpy tracks. They can also make the car feel as if it has a little more traction in low-grip conditions.

Stiffer Front
The car has less front traction, and less steering. It's harder to get the car to turn, the turn radius is bigger and the car has a lot less steering exiting corners. The car will jump better, and maybe a little further. On very high-grip tracks, it's usually beneficial to stiffen the front, even more than the rear. It just makes the car easier to drive, and faster.

Softer Front
The car has more steering, especially in the middle part and the exit of the corner. Front springs that are too soft can make the car hook and spin, and they can also make it react sluggishly.

Stiffer Rear
The car has more steering, in the middle and exit of the turn. This is especially apparent in long, high-speed corners. But rear traction is reduced.

Softer Rear
The car has generally more rear traction, in turns as well as through bumps and while accellerating.


Damping

Heavier
Thicker oil (heavier damping) makes the car more stable, and makes it handle more smoothly. It also makes the car jump and land better. If damping is too heavy, traction could be lost in bumpy sections.

Softer
Soft damping (and springing) is better for shallow, ripply bumps. It also makes the car react quicker. Damping should always be adapted to the spring ratio; the suspension should never feel too 'springy' or too slow.

Heavier Front
The turn radius is wider, but smoother. The car doesn't 'hook' suddenly. The car is easier to drive, and high-speed steering feels very nice.

Softer Front
The steering reacts quicker. More and better low-speed steering.

Heavier Rear
Steering feels quick and responsive, while the rear stays relatively stable.

Softer Rear
Feels very easy to drive, the car can be 'thrown' into turns. More rear traction while accellerating.

If one end of the car has slightly heavier damping than the other, then that end will feel as if it has the most consistent traction and the most stable when turning in and exiting corners. A car with slightly heavier rear damping, or slightly lighter front damping will feel very stable turning into corners on bumps or whoops sections. It won't feel 'touchy' at all.

I took that from THIS GUIDE.
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Old 11-12-2007, 05:57 PM   #20
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Thankz for the tips those are great
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Old 11-12-2007, 06:02 PM   #21
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those are good tips, ill definately use those this saturday when i get to drive my mugen for the first time .

as for the himoto im trying to repair, i dont think im going to have many options when it comes to springs, i sure wish i did though.
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Old 11-12-2007, 06:27 PM   #22
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Me to got a big race in Boulder NV Sat. last race in the point series going to be a blast that track is awsome
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