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Old 11-07-2007, 10:27 AM   #31
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My old OFNA 9.5Pro had the split center diff mount but that didn't make it a better buggy.

Truth is that it is only two more screws to turn to remove the center diff from my Kyosho then the OFNA. I think the solid center mount is more rigid with less weight. IMHO.
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Old 11-07-2007, 02:33 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by DogboneS View Post
Robitronic Protos top loading diff

I didn't see if the front was designed the same way.
It makes sence that the robotronic guys did this since they used to work for HPI. I hear good things about there stuff.
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Old 11-08-2007, 09:53 AM   #33
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It makes sence that the robotronic guys did this since they used to work for HPI. I hear good things about there stuff.

That looks well done, however, instead of taking the lower arms off you are taking off the shock tower and uppers... no real advantage that I can see. Looks sturdy though!

Looked closer at the Losi center diff mount. Plastic is too thin to hack it in half and use bolts to secure it... it would weaken it too much. Whole new mounts would have to be made.

I can't see spending ~$70 for a split center diff mount. I could have them made out of aluminum for that! (Ok, maybe not, but close...) Of course that might be an excuse to buy that "hobby mill" I always wanted.
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Old 11-08-2007, 02:38 PM   #34
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#2- Center diff mounts: While some manufacturers produce split diff mounts, only Fioroni produces aftermarket split diff mounts that keep the upper plate attached to the upper half of the mounts, hence keeping the brake assembly intact and making disassembly and subsequent assembly easier and faster.
The RC8 comes like this stock.
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Old 11-09-2007, 12:50 AM   #35
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what about chain/belt drive buggys?

like nitro TCs
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Old 11-09-2007, 06:18 AM   #36
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And what about the idea of putting the engine horizontaly ?

It would be possible to make a low profile body with bigger cuttings that would lead to the cooling head.

The space needed for battery could be smaller by using a lipo pack, also the engine may be moved a bit to the back, allowing space for the radio gear to be put more to the front...

The center cva may be placed under that engine block (there will be gap, because the cooling head is typically larger than the block).
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Old 11-09-2007, 09:13 AM   #37
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Why not a hydraulic drive train and an automatic transmission?
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Old 11-12-2007, 11:26 AM   #38
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And what about the idea of putting the engine horizontaly ?

It would be possible to make a low profile body with bigger cuttings that would lead to the cooling head.

The space needed for battery could be smaller by using a lipo pack, also the engine may be moved a bit to the back, allowing space for the radio gear to be put more to the front...

The center cva may be placed under that engine block (there will be gap, because the cooling head is typically larger than the block).
Interesting that you mentioned that... my bud and I discussed doing exactly that at one point. The exhaust header would have to be different, but that's no big deal, right?

I don't know about placing the CVA under the engine though... it might not be possible to make it low enough to clear with a reasonable amount of space.

Another idea was to center the engine (much like the Losi) but move the center diff and CVA's to the left side of the car. That would help offset the weight of the radio gear and batteries along the right side... There are a lot of different ways to approach this stuff.
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:30 PM   #39
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losi- makes a alloy center diff mount that could more than likely be cut in half and made into a split diff.
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:48 PM   #40
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losi- makes a alloy center diff mount that could more than likely be cut in half and made into a split diff.
Maybe... but any tool you use that I can think of to cut it with is going to take material out of the cut... that means you have to use 2 sets to make 1, and I'm sure they're "proud of them." ($$$)

I'm gonna experiment with parts from some other manufacturers, see if anything will fit with a little tweaking. In particular if the Mugen diff mounts would line up in the chassis... making a top plate and using different bearings would be no big deal. I'll see what works and what doesn't work.
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Old 11-12-2007, 05:29 PM   #41
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just make shure what you are cutting with is 1mm wide and use a 1mm washer on the diff mounts. That way you only need one set
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