I don't see how that linkage setup offers anything over the stock setup. With that setup you have to worry about the linkage hitting the tank/splash guard.
Apparently you have small thin fingers if you dont have a problem adjusting the brakes with stock setup. Or you have never had your buddy hold the transmitter while you adjust the brakes-then hit brakes and pinch the hell out of your fingers. With this you have F/R rods up top with knurled adjusters instead of the smooth collars- no tools reqiured to adjust. It doesnt hit the tank but I did have remove a small amount of the splash gaurd at the very back-the previous owner had already done this with the stock setup. But it still keeps the fuel off the front brake which is the whole reason for the splash gaurd to begin with. I will post more pics in the next day or 2 to give you better idea.
Anybody find a suitable replacement for the rear outer hinge pins, both mine bent like twigs and im currently using kyosho pins as replacements but they are about 3mm to long.
Same as the dynamite, it seems, eh?
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hey guys, just about finish building my mbx6t and in the manual it is recommended that one places a plate between the screws and the graphite radio try to lift the servo slightly higher.
only in the steering though, but not for the throttle.
suprise the buggy, it is not mentioned in the manual.
i have driven about 1 gallon in my buggy without any problem.
hey guys, just about finish building my mbx6t and in the manual it is recommended that one places a plate between the screws and the graphite radio try to lift the servo slightly higher.
only in the steering though, but not for the throttle.
suprise the buggy, it is not mentioned in the manual.
i have driven about 1 gallon in my buggy without any problem.
just checking how many of u there put a plate?
some servo's have larger dimension's which would require a shim to get the servo up and off the chassis....check for clearance and if your good you dont need a shim.
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hey guys, just about finish building my mbx6t and in the manual it is recommended that one places a plate between the screws and the graphite radio try to lift the servo slightly higher.
only in the steering though, but not for the throttle.
suprise the buggy, it is not mentioned in the manual.
i have driven about 1 gallon in my buggy without any problem.
just checking how many of u there put a plate?
I used the spacers on the MBX6 & MBX6T. I use it for clearing the servos off the chassis and also on the brake/throttle servo to keep the brake/throttle linkage parallel and evenly spaced on the servo horn. Each brand servo is different, so you have to check them installed to see if they need raising.
Some new pics of the finished mods. You can see what I was talking about cutting the throttle side of the cams. Also I you can see the marks on the back of the pads where the stock cams actually apply the brakes when you apply the gas. You wieght weenies can even remove all but one side of the cam to save a few grams. I had to bend the cam levers up to clear the KH top plate. The carbon disc fit tight to the outdrives so they are not full floaters yet, need a tank to lossen every thing up for final adjustments. Also added Ofna brake springs to keep the pads off the discs. Hope this helps with any ideas anyone may have had.
i seen ezvdub posting it a few pages back so i slaped it in there..as i had no were else to start! i honestly see no need to stray from this..i could stay on the gas alot longer through the corners then i could with my 8ight 2.0! thats for sure..i actually set the TQ pace for the day in the first qualifier first time ever driving the car...ended up 2nd in the main..the car settles down very fast too with this oil set up
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Has their been any issues with the center diff leaking? Ive noticed that my center diff has been leaking around the bearings and i replaced the o-ring inside the diff case and after a run or so i noticed it leaking again. Should i look at getting high temp o-rings?
Thanks
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Has their been any issues with the center diff leaking? Ive noticed that my center diff has been leaking around the bearings and i replaced the o-ring inside the diff case and after a run or so i noticed it leaking again. Should i look at getting high temp o-rings?
Thanks
Nope, it's probably just over filled make sure the diff fluid is right at the cross pins and not over them. If you over fill them the fluid finds a way out.
Nope, it's probably just over filled make sure the diff fluid is right at the cross pins and not over them. If you over fill them the fluid finds a way out.
Thanks, ill rebuild it and see how it goes from their.
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