That's all what i should to upgrade in the buggy? And what parts you recommend to buy for replace when i'm broke sth.
You can upgrade the upper arm holder to the option alu one its does seem to fix some peoples problem others are still on the plastic item and have had no issues with breakages.
you can run the original front upper arm and just grind the excess threads off the ball link in the ackerman plate and dremel where the arm rubs off a bit, its not a big thing but the new arm does sort it out but you really dont need to rush out and replace.
still on original outdrives in the front and no problems so far the others i have replaced not because they broke but i got some spare diffs to fill with different oil and they came with the updated outdrives and thats the ones im currently running, persoanlly i use silkolene RG2 for greasing the out drives and double gasket and so far no probs, other good greases are as tony recommends, when i first built my diffs there was leakage but i used the kit grease as suggested bad move i also noticed when i checked the diff the gasket had crushed a bit and the screws were a bit loose so needed re-tightening no leaking diffs now and stock S5 O-rings.
Mikel what oil you running in the rear it seems a lot of team guys are moving toward 5k in the rear which i guess is to keep it in check, also at the front a fair few are running heavier oils from 7k up to 20k.
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MBX5R, OS V-Spec, Sanwa, model technics fuel
I have 2 MBX-6's (One for me and One for my Son) and between them have abour 5 1/2 gallons on it. I have only broken 1 of the original upper arm mounts. If you have the updated kit with the thicker upper arm mount I do not think you need to replace with aluminum. I have the original skiiny one on both my cars, but now have the updated one in my pit box to replace them.
If you are going to put the aluminum upper arm mount on, I would highly recommend also getting this with it:
I have seen way to many people put the aluminum upper arm mount on only to start breaking the front carbon shock tower, which is considerably more expensive.
Durability update for me. And keep in mind I am running a 7.9lb heavy electric..
This is on about 8 practice days and 3 race days. 400 laps?
- 1 cracked front shock tower. Just cracked, and worked just fine for 3 more days of practice before pulling it.
- 1 snapped front lower arm
- bent rear outer pins. Reamed/drilled out the knuckle a bit more loose so they won't bind up with a little bend in the pin.
- 1 front shock shaft
notes: both rear inner wheel bearings were VERY gritty and locking up. This was enough crashing my body won't stay on anymore and my wing wash mashed almost flat lol!
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Mugen MBX6, NINJA
Mugen eMBX6, Tekno NEU 1515/1y, Mamba Max
Mod Slash
Ok thank's. What about graphite towers. Anyone broke front one?
Not I. I have 6 or 7 racedays on my x6 plus some practice days. No signs of structural ware on either tower. However you do want to go ahead and seal the edges with CA.
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Mugen MBX6T w/ O.S. Speed
AE Factory Team B4 w/ Tekin Setup
Durability update for me. And keep in mind I am running a 7.9lb heavy electric..
This is on about 8 practice days and 3 race days. 400 laps?
- 1 cracked front shock tower. Just cracked, and worked just fine for 3 more days of practice before pulling it.
- 1 snapped front lower arm
- bent rear outer pins. Reamed/drilled out the knuckle a bit more loose so they won't bind up with a little bend in the pin.
- 1 front shock shaft
notes: both rear inner wheel bearings were VERY gritty and locking up. This was enough crashing my body won't stay on anymore and my wing wash mashed almost flat lol!
I got my 6 in oct last yr and its pretty much been on a track once a week since then and ive only cracked the upper arm holder, found air leak in the lid of the tank, and last meet i was at i needed max anti squat, checking the car afterwards i found 2 slightly bent rear shock shafts, was weird ive never bent a shaft on a mugen before. But im still on the first version of the out drives, no problems, first radio box, no problems, shock towers still fine aswell.
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Andrew Dun
Model Motorsport International | Mugen Seiki | Ninja Engines | AKA Australia | Ryper Hobbies | Lucky7Rc
www.lucky7rc.com | www.ryperhobbies.com.au
well 2 of us are now running the x6 at the local track. one guy had his out put in his rear diff seize to the ring gear I assume he didnt lube it enough (only had 4 tanks on the track). I have 4 race days on my x6 and only issue is I twisted a rear axle stub (part that goes through the bearing in the rear hub and the hex mounts to) but running a c6 on indoor track with good bite prb. didnt help any who knows?
I agree, the optional aluminum front upper arm piece is something i personally would not use.
I brought the updated plastic piece and it works great! zero issues so far with it, i think i got about close to 5 gallons through my kit.
The only things i have replaced are the inner bearings, and the orignal front upper arm thin plastic piece (updated with thicker plastic piece)
buggy is getting better and better every outing, i honestly like my X6...the large inner bearings are my only gripe with the kit, besides that it has been really durable...
Thuren, i thought your buggy is lighter than Nitro? Also, will you be able to rip it up at the track Thursday? i am planning on going Thursday since i havent ripped in 2 weeks man, been a while. Cant stand to not burn some nitro lol
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Upgrade-RC- Keeps the bling going
BCE Speed- Holds it down
Tonys Screws- Keeps you from getting screwed
Byrons Fuel- Makes the RC world go round
Thuren, i thought your buggy is lighter than Nitro? Also, will you be able to rip it up at the track Thursday? i am planning on going Thursday since i havent ripped in 2 weeks man, been a while. Cant stand to not burn some nitro lol
Yeah Jesse. It's funny how the Nitro guys all think the electric conversions are lighter, but they are usually WAY heavier. My electric motor alone is about 13oz, and the battery is about 17oz. Adds up fast!
If the track is runable I can go for a bit thursday for sure. I'll PM you my phone #...
We're all talking about heading south to race saturday or sunday. You should come along.
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Mugen MBX6, NINJA
Mugen eMBX6, Tekno NEU 1515/1y, Mamba Max
Mod Slash
I thought about it..I will see how it goes for the weekend. I added your number and will send you mine tomorrow through text.
Imaxx, i wish i was there this weekend, did you guys take any pics? i will check out your guy's practice on Live-RC tomorrow...good luck man, and tell Jake to let you run that 21-4 since he is afraid to run it lol
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RC CAR Magazine- Entertainment at its best!
Upgrade-RC- Keeps the bling going
BCE Speed- Holds it down
Tonys Screws- Keeps you from getting screwed
Byrons Fuel- Makes the RC world go round
I have had a problem using the fatter o-rings in the diffs. When I push the outdrive thru the case, it unseats the o-ring, and getting the o-ringback into the groove is a big pain. I push one side of the o-ring down, and the other side pops out of the groove. Anyone else have this problem?
Using Mobil 1 red grease on the outdrives, by the way.
I have had a problem using the fatter o-rings in the diffs. When I push the outdrive thru the case, it unseats the o-ring, and getting the o-ringback into the groove is a big pain. I push one side of the o-ring down, and the other side pops out of the groove. Anyone else have this problem?
Using Mobil 1 red grease on the outdrives, by the way.
Thanks.
yeah, just wanna check whether it is truely necessary to get fatter o rings for my diff. i use grease and stuff.
i rebuilt my diff after 1 race and found all the diff fluid still present
yeah, just wanna check whether it is truely necessary to get fatter o rings for my diff. i use grease and stuff.
i rebuilt my diff after 1 race and found all the diff fluid still present
what u think
Same experience, I use Ass. Green Slime on my stock S5 rings (since they where out of stock, and I was in a hurry), even the lightest oil still stay in. But I'd prefer the fatter rings to the stock.
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