I'm using a jammin JP3 pipe with a Ninja BO1A short header - careful here as they make a long and a short version of the header.
Or you could just buy the Ninja pipe to go with it if you wanted the full factory jackson look
Savoya is not running the lower kingpin-ball spacer, so his upper pivot balls would be threaded in farther than if the 1mm spacers were in place.
I'd say the spring retainers are drilled to prevent dirt from building up in there, which would weigh a lot.
Also, I got the team setup database from the Worlds, and Savoya runs an entirely different setup from everyone else, so I don't know if I'd want to copy his setup (he may just be that freaky talented!).
As far as I can make out the tracks in France are dirt. Plus the second sheet is his Worlds setup from the Farm II and it still has the maxi droop setting plus the heavy diff settings?
Definitely un-conventional setup, tailored to the driver for sure
How much different are their tracks? What's the purpose of running that much droop?
Simple, Too keep the wheel as much as possible on the ground . In USA most track are hardpacked, that not the case here in France where tracks might turn into minefield after few hours of race.
Your only link to the ground is your tyre, if you want to keep steering and grip you need to keep your wheel on the ground I didn't find anything shocking in this setup.
Have look of what look like a French 1/8 rallycross track (most interesting pics are in the middle) http://capelle.freebox.free.fr/
mugen mbx6 1 weekend on it. crime fighters bow ties mounted brand new 1 set of hole shots 75% done mugen tshirt
extra spoiler set of a arms mud guards up rights metal chassis brace sway bars 13 14 clutch bell and lots of other parts. 2 bodies. 420.00 bucks i need to sell this buggy email me chrlgra@aol.com
He has -5mm front camber and 20k and 30k for front diff weight, wow!!! You will never see me running that type of setup. Way too extreme. His diff setup should be fit for a truggy, lol. I know everybody has different driving style, but with that set-up he must be different in his own crazy ways.
hi guys just checking whether everyone had put oil in the bladder prior to putting the silicon oil. i only knew about this thenique 'after 'filling those bladders with the 450wt.
now all set up so feels its too late. the shocks are full of oil. will it be detrimental to the life of those pistons??
You wont have any problems mate, although you may want to go to thinner oils as I have struggled running anythihng over 25/30wt in the cold conditions at the momment, anything over that has just not been soft enough to do much. That does in part depend on where your racing though and how bumpy it is. For your reference, 450cps is roughly a 37.5wt oil.
thanks ash, i guess its my learning curve. i just realised as well one will need to screw the shaft into the bladder to avoid damaging the o rings.
too late as well.
any way i just bought a losi 40wt from u guys for my caster shocks front.
i used the mugen mbx6 45wt for the rear.....hope it will work
What you need to remember is that Mugen oil is measured in Centipoise (CPS), not the more common american WT that we're more familiar with. Therefore your 450CPS Mugen oil is infact a 37.5wt oil. For me the 450CPS was way too thick, as was the 30 and 35wt oils. Its only now I'm down to the 25's and 30's that it feels something like useable, maybe its just our cold bumpy UK tracks. Time will tell, I'm out with it again tomorrow. I'll happily keep you posted on any setup changes, seeing as we race at the same local tracks. Are you at NNRC tomorrow?
I didn't find anything shocking in this setup.
Similar Threads