R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-02-2007, 01:53 PM   #1
Tech Regular
 
Mugen MBX-5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: canada
Posts: 354
Default first run engine tips??

im getting a LRP .28 zspec. is there anything i should know about it when starting it for the first time??

ive heard that you DONT want metal to metal contact with the piston when starting it?? is that true?

ive also heard to get the engine warm before starting it, preferably with a hair dryer or something like that?

any other tips/suggestions. im sure there will be some in the instruction book (when i get it) but i just wanna hear what you guys think.
Mugen MBX-5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2007, 02:20 PM   #2
Tech Fanatic
 
jatoman1992's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: slidell, louisiana
Posts: 943
Trader Rating: 4 (75%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to jatoman1992
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen MBX-5 View Post
im getting a LRP .28 zspec. is there anything i should know about it when starting it for the first time??

1. ive heard that you DONT want metal to metal contact with the piston when starting it?? is that true?

2. ive also heard to get the engine warm before starting it, preferably with a hair dryer or something like that?

any other tips/suggestions. im sure there will be some in the instruction book (when i get it) but i just wanna hear what you guys think.
1. true
2 you dont have to heat the engine before starting but its easier on the internal motor parts.

tip: if you have a bumpstarter... try not to spin the engine backwards.
__________________
Pre-mix:
Kawisaki KX125-bored out to a 134cc, VForce reed valves, FMF gold series pipe and shorty silencer, phathead racing cyl head w/ interchangeable domes, and wiseco flat to piston
Nitro:
Ofna Ultra LX Pro- Axial .28 1S w/ JP-2 Pipe, Hitec HS5645MG(steering) and Hitec HS625MG(Throttle/Brake)
Electric:
Losi Micro-T- stock
Coming soon: Associated FT B4- stock

Ofna LX Pro as a roller w/ extras- $150
Starter box(1/8 buggy) w/12V battery- $70
micro T- $50 OBO
Axial .28 1S- 6 gal. thru- $50 OBO

Last edited by jatoman1992; 11-08-2007 at 04:34 PM.
jatoman1992 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2007, 02:34 PM   #3
Tech Master
 
Charles Godwin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: UK (England)
Posts: 1,127
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

When i started my engine from new i put a few drops of after run oil down the glow plug hole and that seemed to help as well as using a hair drier. Before starting it blow down the exhaust fuel line so it then pushes fuel into the fuel line straight away instead of waiting for fuel to get to engine whilst it's on the starter box

Chaz
__________________
DXR | CML Distribution | Paint by Turnip Paint | TKRgraphics.com
Charles Godwin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2007, 03:07 PM   #4
Tech Elite
 
ezveedub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 2,411
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to ezveedub Send a message via Yahoo to ezveedub
Default

I recommend heating the motor up first. This helps to keep the rod bushings from taking a beating with a tight piston/sleeve pinch on first few tanks. You can use after run oil through the glowplug hole or through the exhaust port if the pipe is off to make sure it is well lubed, but I prefer castor oil personally. And also blow through the pipe or the line to the tank to get fuel right at the carb so you don't spend a lot of time trying to get it started up. Hair drier may only make it to about 160deg which is OK. I prefer the heat gun and get it to 200deg instead though. What fuel are you running it in with. It should be a high oil content for breaking in.
__________________
Kyosho, Mugen Seiki, Maxy's Fuel, KO Propo
O.S., Ninja JX, Novarossi, RMV
ezveedub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2007, 05:08 PM   #5
Tech Elite
 
rltanner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lake Havasu City,AZ
Posts: 2,681
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

me and my buddy did a heat cycle break-in and it works awsome
__________________
Mugen MBX6
Mugen MBX6 Truggy
rltanner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2007, 06:58 PM   #6
Tech Regular
 
Mugen MBX-5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: canada
Posts: 354
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
I recommend heating the motor up first. This helps to keep the rod bushings from taking a beating with a tight piston/sleeve pinch on first few tanks. You can use after run oil through the glowplug hole or through the exhaust port if the pipe is off to make sure it is well lubed, but I prefer castor oil personally. And also blow through the pipe or the line to the tank to get fuel right at the carb so you don't spend a lot of time trying to get it started up. Hair drier may only make it to about 160deg which is OK. I prefer the heat gun and get it to 200deg instead though. What fuel are you running it in with. It should be a high oil content for breaking in.
ok, i usually blow through the line to start it anyways. how would i avoid the metal on metal contact upon first start up??

how to i avoid spinning the motor backwards?

and im not too sure what fuel im using, i think its like sidewinder or something.
Mugen MBX-5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2007, 07:15 PM   #7
Tech Elite
 
ezveedub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 2,411
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to ezveedub Send a message via Yahoo to ezveedub
Default

What they mean by metal on metal contact is running it dry on first start up cold. Thats why I shoot a bit of castor oil into the engine and heat the engine to 160+ so the sleeve/piston are not so tight. You can lock an engine if you rotate it cold and not broken in yet. That pinch in the sleeve that locks it up will be a lot less & looser when hot, so you won't wear the sleeve down as much during break in if you heat the engine first. If you can get it to 200-220 your good, but not actually needed. You'll notice the engine is easier to turn over when hot. By doing this, your break in wear will be minimal and your to piston to sleeve will seal much better after break in and last a lot longer. After each tank, make sure you bring the piston down to BDC. Don't let it cool down with the piston half way up the sleeve or higher, because when it cools down, it will shrink down and may lock onto the piston and ruin your piston/sleeve assembly.

Also, if I am not mistaken, you engine should rotate counter clockwise (facing the engine from the front)
__________________
Kyosho, Mugen Seiki, Maxy's Fuel, KO Propo
O.S., Ninja JX, Novarossi, RMV
ezveedub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2007, 10:11 PM   #8
Tech Regular
 
Mugen MBX-5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: canada
Posts: 354
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
What they mean by metal on metal contact is running it dry on first start up cold. Thats why I shoot a bit of castor oil into the engine and heat the engine to 160+ so the sleeve/piston are not so tight. You can lock an engine if you rotate it cold and not broken in yet. That pinch in the sleeve that locks it up will be a lot less & looser when hot, so you won't wear the sleeve down as much during break in if you heat the engine first. If you can get it to 200-220 your good, but not actually needed. You'll notice the engine is easier to turn over when hot. By doing this, your break in wear will be minimal and your to piston to sleeve will seal much better after break in and last a lot longer. After each tank, make sure you bring the piston down to BDC. Don't let it cool down with the piston half way up the sleeve or higher, because when it cools down, it will shrink down and may lock onto the piston and ruin your piston/sleeve assembly.

Also, if I am not mistaken, you engine should rotate counter clockwise (facing the engine from the front)
i was also gonna let it idle 1 tank through it, then i just take the next 2 or 3 tanks super easy on the engine or what??
Mugen MBX-5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2007, 11:23 PM   #9
Tech Elite
 
ezveedub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 2,411
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to ezveedub Send a message via Yahoo to ezveedub
Default

I would take the first 2 tanks at slightly above idle speed. You usually have to do this to overcome the friction of break-in. Then the next 3 tanks you can run a higher idle speed and you may have to adjust the idle screw because it may high idle. From there on, you can run the car, but limit the throttle to about 30-50% in short blips for the next 2 tanks. Then run the next 2 tanks at 50-70% throttle max. Then the next 2 tanks about 70-80% throttle. Remember to keep an eye on temps. Try to maintain a 210-240 F temp. I keep glowplugs of different heat ranges around as the engine starts to break-in. You'll encounter that when then engine is getting close to fully breaking in, you'll have to lean it more and more to keep temps UP and good response. I personally like to run castor based oils during break-in. Castor smokes and gives you a good visual of how rich you're running. Most newer synthetics lubes don't give you that good blue smoke on accel, so the temp gun is more critical when you run these types of fuels. I'm old school and like to see the nice blue smoke plume on accel. Its nice to run the newer synthetics based lubed fuels for more power, but I'm not racing with a sponsorship behind me, so if I blow an engine, I don't have a sponsorship to give me an engine for free. Its out of my pocket. I good break-in fuel to use is 5-10% nitro with about 16-18 oil content. I run Omega 10% with castor based oil. It seems likes much to do, but the engine will last you much longer. Remember nitro is corrosive, so the higher content, the more you erode or wear the sleeve/piston. Try to look up Ron Paris's engine tips PDF. Its an older tip sheet, but its based on castor based fuels like Blue Thunder. One way to know when your full broke in is to remove the glowplug and rotate the engine. If you feel the piston gets stuck or feels scratchy when it gets closed to TDC, you still need to break-it in some more.
__________________
Kyosho, Mugen Seiki, Maxy's Fuel, KO Propo
O.S., Ninja JX, Novarossi, RMV
ezveedub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2007, 02:38 PM   #10
Tech Regular
 
Mugen MBX-5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: canada
Posts: 354
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
I would take the first 2 tanks at slightly above idle speed. You usually have to do this to overcome the friction of break-in. Then the next 3 tanks you can run a higher idle speed and you may have to adjust the idle screw because it may high idle. From there on, you can run the car, but limit the throttle to about 30-50% in short blips for the next 2 tanks. Then run the next 2 tanks at 50-70% throttle max. Then the next 2 tanks about 70-80% throttle. Remember to keep an eye on temps. Try to maintain a 210-240 F temp. I keep glowplugs of different heat ranges around as the engine starts to break-in. You'll encounter that when then engine is getting close to fully breaking in, you'll have to lean it more and more to keep temps UP and good response. I personally like to run castor based oils during break-in. Castor smokes and gives you a good visual of how rich you're running. Most newer synthetics lubes don't give you that good blue smoke on accel, so the temp gun is more critical when you run these types of fuels. I'm old school and like to see the nice blue smoke plume on accel. Its nice to run the newer synthetics based lubed fuels for more power, but I'm not racing with a sponsorship behind me, so if I blow an engine, I don't have a sponsorship to give me an engine for free. Its out of my pocket. I good break-in fuel to use is 5-10% nitro with about 16-18 oil content. I run Omega 10% with castor based oil. It seems likes much to do, but the engine will last you much longer. Remember nitro is corrosive, so the higher content, the more you erode or wear the sleeve/piston. Try to look up Ron Paris's engine tips PDF. Its an older tip sheet, but its based on castor based fuels like Blue Thunder. One way to know when your full broke in is to remove the glowplug and rotate the engine. If you feel the piston gets stuck or feels scratchy when it gets closed to TDC, you still need to break-it in some more.
sweet, thats what i was wondering. thanks a lot for all that info. i dont have a temp gauge though. do those come with the engine or electronics or what??
Mugen MBX-5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2007, 09:46 PM   #11
Tech Elite
 
ezveedub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 2,411
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to ezveedub Send a message via Yahoo to ezveedub
Default

You gotta get one separately. You can find them at LHS. There are some pocket sized infrared temp thermostats available for about $30 and up that should work fine.
__________________
Kyosho, Mugen Seiki, Maxy's Fuel, KO Propo
O.S., Ninja JX, Novarossi, RMV
ezveedub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2007, 09:49 PM   #12
Tech Elite
 
Jason Halvorson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Grand Forks ND
Posts: 3,955
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Jason Halvorson Send a message via MSN to Jason Halvorson
Default

i use the duratraks one for 20 bucks and it works great...
Jason Halvorson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2007, 01:00 PM   #13
Tech Regular
 
Mugen MBX-5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: canada
Posts: 354
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Halvorson View Post
i use the duratraks one for 20 bucks and it works great...
damn, those are a lot cheaper then i thought. ill have to get one. how exactly do they work??? its got a piece of metal that touches part of the engine, then goes to some sort of electrical box (powered by seperate batteries, not my receiver battery thingy) or what?? how do i mount it??
Mugen MBX-5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2007, 01:11 PM   #14
Tech Master
 
Charles Godwin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: UK (England)
Posts: 1,127
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

If you want a temp gauge i recommend the O'Donnell one. Takes temp in *F and in *C and also doubles up as a stop watch

Chaz
__________________
DXR | CML Distribution | Paint by Turnip Paint | TKRgraphics.com
Charles Godwin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2007, 01:28 PM   #15
Tech Elite
 
ezveedub's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 2,411
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to ezveedub Send a message via Yahoo to ezveedub
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen MBX-5 View Post
damn, those are a lot cheaper then i thought. ill have to get one. how exactly do they work??? its got a piece of metal that touches part of the engine, then goes to some sort of electrical box (powered by seperate batteries, not my receiver battery thingy) or what?? how do i mount it??
No, you just point it into the head at the glowplug. I point and move it around in the head to get the highest reading. You can easily get an off reading if you catch the side of the head instead of the center or hottest point.
__________________
Kyosho, Mugen Seiki, Maxy's Fuel, KO Propo
O.S., Ninja JX, Novarossi, RMV
ezveedub is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Engine tuning tips zardoz Nitro Off-Road 6 07-13-2007 07:28 PM
OS 21VG Tips and tricks for this engine Cain Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 04-06-2007 07:43 AM
Tips on a Sportwerks V1 Pro .21 Engine Cain Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 1 02-22-2007 03:51 PM
Break in tips for OS TR engine j240z Nitro On-Road 9 06-08-2004 05:56 AM
Engine tuning tips AMGRacer Nitro On-Road 10 11-14-2001 11:29 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:29 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net