Help with Setup for Jammin FTE
 

anyone have any good setup tips for this buggy. nosedives like crazy on jumps and rearend is pretty twitchy. i'm running 5-7-3 in the diffs and 35 front and rear in the shocks. i've heard people run muegen springs in the rear?? also any opinions on the superbig bore shocks from jammin? any help is apreciated. thanks!

How long have you had the jammin?

Not too long after I got mine, my front end started dropping. I talked to OFNA and some of the knowlegable people from the ofna forum, and found that the big bore springs have a breakin period, and after a whiole you have to adda little preload to them, and they are fine. I did pick up a set of mugen front and rear springs, but haven't tried them yet.

My current setup is for larger tracks that have med-wide turns.

7-5-1 diffs
40wt front and rear w/red jammin springs
front shocks are on the lower outer hole
rear shocks are on thr middle top row
outer mount holes on lower for all shocks.

Hope that helps. There is also some setup sheets from the pros on http://www.jamminproducts.com/setups.htm

well i bought it from someone on here but not sure how long it was run. maybe i'll pick up some new springs. but i'll try that shock config you have and see how it goes. thanks man.

u using what mugen spring (colour, type) for your Big Bore Shock 16mm.

There is a rear camber link modification that you'll need to do. You have to drill a new hole in your shock tower. Or you can order the king headz tower.

Also check out the Jammin site and try Chad Bradley's or Ryan McCreary's setups. They should be pretty close and they are dialed. I believe both of them show they are using the camber link mod in their setup. You'll notice an extra hole in the tower.

:nod:I'm sure these things have been talked over in the "Jammin X1 Cr : so close yet so far" thread. A few suggestions of things worth trying:

About twitchy rear:
-The 7th hole in the rear tower is supossed to help holding the rear (longer camber link), although I haven't found it necessary yet, as I race in medium tracks with tight curves, so I need the rear to break out a bit for sharper steering. It's also a driving style thing.
-You might also try more inclined shocks with thicker oil and work on the sway bar...
-More rear toe-in and/or a bit more negative camber.
-Soften rear diff to 2000.

About nose diving on jumps

-Use tap on the throttle in mid air to correct trajectory.
-make the front end a bit higher or lower the rear.
-get more pack in your front shocks: smaller piston holes and thinner oil.... Although come to think of it, 35 seems awfull thin oil already for big bore shocks. You might try just using 45 front/ 40 rear oil before changing pistons.
-Making front shocks more vertical might help, but will change steering behaviour also.

;)Hope some of this helps. Tests and more tests 'till you reach the right balance!!

Jammin has the best website for info you need to go there and print off a copy of Chad B's Starting setup V2 change your car to that setup and it will be a great starting point for you. if you are new to buggys this will probably work for you everywhere until you understand setup better.
For those of you running the same weight oil front and rear that will make you car very slow to react and push like crazy F 45 R 35 is a place to start
run the jammin red springs or mugen grays for a smaller jump track or a bumpy track.

good luck

try the mugen grey springs front and rear, with the 7th hole mod on the rear shock tower, when hot out side use 45wt front and 35wt rear, when cool use 35wt front and 25wt rear...this combo worked very good for me on my jammin X1CR...

I have been running 45w in Front ,35w in rear with mugen greys.
Shock location is #2 hole(upper middle) and inside on the arm for the rear and
in the front is the same,upper middle and inside on the arm.
The rear link I haven't done the mod for the 7th hole,mine is @ the #6 hole on the tower and outer on the hub.I was running on the inside hub location and by going to the outside I noticed it helped keep the rear more planted coming out of the corner on power.My track gets kinda loose though and may be different at other places.
I was using 5-7-2 diff oils but wanted better rotation and dropped down to 3-5-2 and it seems to have helped.At least on for me.
All I know is I was thinking about switching to a different buggy for next season but we had a freak November heat wave up here in Washington(65 DEG AND SUNNY) so we had an emergency practice day at my local track and got to run my buddies Losi 8 and the track owners MBX5R and ya the Losi I think has better jumping ability(better rebound for lift,i think that is shock related) and the 5R was ok but nothing to call the paper about.My buddy with the 8 was likeing the Jammin also.

So I will be ordering the new Super Big Bores to try for next season and keep a hold of my trusty but not rusty JAMMIN'.:nod::tire:

Hi!! I usualy race at a track that's medium size (not open and wide), medium bumpy, some jumps, all kinds of curves.... I'm still using the normal shocks on my X1 CR (:sneaky:I've been a naughty boy 2 years in a row, Santa says..heheheh:lol:)...

So what oils would you recomend?? I think the piston holes are a bit smaller than in the Big Bore shocks, so I'm using Ultimate oils, 45/40 in summer and 40/35 in winter, with the Ofna blue (medium) springs.