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Old 10-29-2007, 05:19 PM   #16
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I'm running the Castle Creations regulator with an HT 1500mAh receiver. I don't think I'll ever go back to nimh in pretty much anything unless I have to.
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Old 10-29-2007, 05:39 PM   #17
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I've been running Lipo's in my buggies now for almost 3 years ,and only had one minor incident,and it was when I dropped a pack right on it's corner on concrete! Can we say FIRE !! Yeah Buddy !! But IT went out the door before there was any troubles
For those 3 years I have been running a single Hitec 5995TG for steering and a 965 for throttle never had any issues at all ! Oh and I DO NOT run a regulator the servos are made for the 7.4 volts . Only thing that I should get is a voltage cut off device,but it might do the wrong thing ,right now my reciever seems to know when to go into failsafe so I think all is well .
Oh yeah the Spektrum reciever works great up to 9.6 volts
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:55 AM   #18
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FYI - The MuchMore and VXR regulators will output 6.4 volts to the RX. This will ensure you will not trip the failsafe of your rx. It keeps things nice and smooth for 1 hr and 10 to 15 minutes with my 1000 mah packs. They have been working flawlessly for quite some time.
I run Spectrum with my Air TX and Futaba servos.
Very small and light to boot.
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:16 AM   #19
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Does anyone know if the E-flite 2-3 Cell DC Li-Polymer Balancing Charger ( http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/11575 ) will work on receiver packs? I know it's for planes but, I assume it'll work on a receiver lipo?
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:19 AM   #20
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Do you guys use a balancer at all??? I have the new losi lipo receiver pack, and I am going to use my trubo 35 gfx with lipo upgrade to charge it, do I need a balancer?
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Old 10-30-2007, 10:22 AM   #21
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I definately will go LiPo, we run endurance race and Im tried of pitting for the batteries. hopefully the LiPo will reduce the pit time.
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Old 10-30-2007, 12:16 PM   #22
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I noticed the Much-More regulator is 7 amp and also 5 amp. I'm running the Pro-Tek 5 amp.

Anybody know how this affects the performance.

As I posted before I"m having trouble with the 3PKs either losing bind or going into fail safe. I wonder if I should run the 7 amp.
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Old 10-30-2007, 01:40 PM   #23
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It makes no difference both will perform the same duty except the 7 amp one can handle more power 2 amps more to be precise.

This means it can handle more servo's, 5 amps is plenty for 2 digitals i would think.

I only have a 5 amp in my showtime and it has 5 digital servo's.

The 7 amp will have no effect on bind, try and keep your power leads away from the arial and receiver that is more than likely your problem.
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Old 10-30-2007, 06:35 PM   #24
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Default Spektrum has a part for the failsafe problem

Spektrum has a capacitor they sell for electric cars to keep them from going into failsafe when the batt gets a little low and you hit it with a lot of load. I put on on my car and I haven't had a glitch since. I've used lipo on my Tx for over a year now and on the car for 6 mo or so with no problems at all after putting in the cap. The cap prevents spikes or transients on the power line to the Rx. Which can trip the failsafe. I too left one on at first and it was fried afterwards. Now I pull the one in the radio and unplug the one in the car so they don't discharge. No way I'd go back to nimh. One thing that isn't common knowledge about these batteries is that plain old salt water will neutralize them. If something happens and the case ruptures salt water will stop whatever is happening fast. Its also the recommended way to dispose of them. One of the reasons they went to this type of battery is that it can be rendered inert with salt water and so is much less of a pollutant when discarded. If you use the proper charger they are plenty safe. And I've seen a couple of 90+ mph bad wrecks at the drag strip where they flew completely out of the car with no damage or massive explosions

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Old 10-31-2007, 06:56 AM   #25
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Griz-
This is off topic. Are you going to be at the RC Pro Series finals? If so, look myself and Joe up in the Indy/T&T booth there at the show. Come by and say HEY.
Should be some pretty good racing there.
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Old 11-16-2007, 06:57 PM   #26
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I have an XB8EC with a Premium Power 1600mAh Lipo and the Much More 7A voltage regulator. I use a JR XR2i radio with JR125 receiver on 27MHz. It glitches like a MoFo!! When I take the radio 25m away, the throttle and steering servos (ACE D1015) go nuts! If I put a NiMh receiver pack in it, there are no problems. I also noticed that if I power the receiver using NiMh, just plugging the voltage regulator into the LiPo (neither of which are plugged into the car) causes glitching, but not as much.

I am getting a 2.4GHz Nomadio React in a few days. Will this solve this problem?

Anyone know how to fix this?
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Old 11-16-2007, 09:11 PM   #27
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I have the standard spektrum receivers, are they ok to run without a regulator or do I need one?
Air 94358 steering
Fut 9351 throttle

Thanks
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Old 11-17-2007, 06:12 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportssedanman View Post
I have an XB8EC with a Premium Power 1600mAh Lipo and the Much More 7A voltage regulator. I use a JR XR2i radio with JR125 receiver on 27MHz. It glitches like a MoFo!! When I take the radio 25m away, the throttle and steering servos (ACE D1015) go nuts! If I put a NiMh receiver pack in it, there are no problems. I also noticed that if I power the receiver using NiMh, just plugging the voltage regulator into the LiPo (neither of which are plugged into the car) causes glitching, but not as much.

I am getting a 2.4GHz Nomadio React in a few days. Will this solve this problem?

Anyone know how to fix this?
sounds like the chip in the regulator is running at a rate that interferes with the radio. it shouldnt do it with the 2.4ghz but if it does try changing your regulator.
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Old 11-17-2007, 08:55 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griz11 View Post
Spektrum has a capacitor they sell for electric cars to keep them from going into failsafe when the batt gets a little low and you hit it with a lot of load.
A bunch of companies sell them, including Radio Shack if you can solder (will cost you about $5 total between the cap, pigtail and heatshrink).

This isn't a new concept by any stretch of the imagination. I have had one in my 12th scale cars for about 6 years now. In fact we were doing it before any companies even started selling them. It was a great way to keep your 12th scale voltage consistent through to the end of a race without having to spend the big bucks for a receiver pack (Which were very expensive at the time since they were tiny, loose, hard to get cells).
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