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Old 10-20-2007, 10:47 PM   #1
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Default RB Concepts S7

Anyone ever run this motor? how would it do in a truggy?
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Old 10-20-2007, 11:16 PM   #2
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havent ran it in a truggy but i ran/run it in my MBX5R. its a fast engine that winds up. not as much low end as a c6(have one of those as well) but rips on the top.....
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Old 10-21-2007, 12:28 PM   #3
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I'm just trying to mount this engine in my Jammin RTR replacing the 28 it had. Question, the S7 came with crank screw that holds the clutchbell on but with no washer. The 28 had a washer on it, is it needed on the S7. Problem i'm having is with all this on the motor the clutchbell wont turn freely its tight. Even without the washer its tight but not as bad. I put a nonpull start flywheel on it also. By the way its the X1cr.
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Old 10-21-2007, 05:11 PM   #4
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the s7 is great engine in a truggy. If you run it witha the dynamite 007 pipe it will have bottom and top-end power
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Old 10-21-2007, 05:47 PM   #5
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I'm just trying to mount this engine in my Jammin RTR replacing the 28 it had. Question, the S7 came with crank screw that holds the clutchbell on but with no washer. The 28 had a washer on it, is it needed on the S7. Problem i'm having is with all this on the motor the clutchbell wont turn freely its tight. Even without the washer its tight but not as bad. I put a nonpull start flywheel on it also. By the way its the X1cr.
Clutch bell shimming can play a major role in bearing life, CB wear, and spur gear wear. Bad shimming can equal 10 minutes total bearing life. Good shimming can equal 5-6 weekends or more with maintenance. I'd suggest getting some shims to adjust with. You will be able to adjust and set the CB much easier, rather than saying "Ummm...close enough. Let's run it!" I've been there done that. The rear bearing might need a shim behind it to keep the CB off the flywheel. Ideally a gap of 1/2mm or less is good. Also the screw on the front of the crankshaft is often referred to as the CB screw. Shim often are needed between this screw and the front bearing. It will pay off in the end to set the spur gear teeth as even and centered as possible on the CB teeth. But also allow that small gap at the back of the CB to the flywheel.
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Old 10-21-2007, 06:03 PM   #6
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Thanks for the help. Would you happen to know who makes or a part # for the shims?

The Dynamite pipe was mentioned, how does the JP-3 pipe compare?
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Old 10-21-2007, 06:13 PM   #7
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cool. just might pick this motor up for next year. it's between the S7 and the Picco P7 EVo 2.
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Old 10-21-2007, 06:37 PM   #8
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The RB will last wayyyy longer than that Pico. I have 2 very old S7's that are still very fast.
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Old 10-21-2007, 07:08 PM   #9
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I've run this motor in my Jammin CRT. I used it from my buggy where it originally ran. It powered the truggy pretty well! Power was very linear and smooth. I believe mugenlife said it best about its power.
In my buggy, it's a different world. The S7 is a missile!!

Right now I'm trying to decide what RB or Novarossi I'm gonna install in my New Jammin for next year. (C6BBT, C6BB or NR 367) ??? This is gonna be a tough decision..
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Old 10-21-2007, 08:36 PM   #10
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Thanks for the help. Would you happen to know who makes or a part # for the shims?

The Dynamite pipe was mentioned, how does the JP-3 pipe compare?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/3071
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5827

These have been working good for me.
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Old 10-22-2007, 01:50 AM   #11
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thing i like about RB engines is they seem to have a wide power band in their specific design that allows them to be linear (consistant) only engine i have ran that i can say was more linear (but less power) is a nova bf21 3 port. on a tight track they are sweet. a C6 will for the most part keep up with .28's (for a 21 vs a race 28) not so sure the s7 will from the low to mid region. still nice engine though. some people look at dyno tests to say XXX engine is better because the dyno says so but at the same time that same engine might not have a nice feel on the track.
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Old 10-29-2007, 05:36 PM   #12
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Finally got the Ofna 0.3 shims. Installed 2 shims and did free up a little play but still seems to be too much drag. The flywheel turns until you get to the compression then the clutch bell will turn by itself until its over the compression. Is there something i'm missing?
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Old 10-29-2007, 05:53 PM   #13
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You probably need a longer screw. This has happened to me in the past. You have to find the right length. I'm sure that's the problem. Enjoy and thank me later.
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Old 10-30-2007, 05:45 AM   #14
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With the S7 the JP-3 will be good in the truck. I would use a JP-2 in the buggy for slick conditions. The JP-1 will put out the most power but will also drink the most fuel.
An RB 2045 or 053 with a 196 mm header would be optimal. I love the 2045 with the 193 in my buggy. Very good fuel milage and still lots of top if you full pull.
The RB motors are killer.
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Old 10-30-2007, 01:05 PM   #15
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Finally got the Ofna 0.3 shims. Installed 2 shims and did free up a little play but still seems to be too much drag. The flywheel turns until you get to the compression then the clutch bell will turn by itself until its over the compression. Is there something i'm missing?
Yeah, you have WAY too much drag somewhere. What kind of flywheel are you running? What kind of clutch bell? What kind of shoes?

For example... if you use an OFNA flywheel and shoes, with a Mugen clutch bell, in my experience it doesn't have enough clearance. The shoes drag on the bell, even when the engine isn't running. The inside diameter of the OFNA bells is just a HAIR larger, but the outside is the same. The thickness of the bell is different.

A few more questions for you: What kind of flywheel are you running? Do you have the little brass taper fitting FOR THAT FLYWHEEL? You can't mix and match in most cases. Different brands use different sizes and tapers. (I'm referring to the one that goes on before the flywheel, that the flywheel fits around.) You DO usually need to shim the flywheel out from the motor, just enough that the flywheel can't possibly rub the front of the engine case.

Is the clutch bell rubbing on the flywheel at the back, or perhaps rubbing on the pins that retain the shoes on the inside face? If so, you need a spacer (shim) between the collet nut and the inner clutch bell bearing.

Are you using the larger diameter spacers/shims or the small one? You shouldn't be using shims that are large enough to rub the outer bearing race... just the smaller diameter ones that are about the size of the inner bearing race. Otherwise you get friction there.

Finally, is there some slight end play? You should be able to move the clutch bell fore-and-aft JUST SLIGHTLY, about the thickness of a human hair. If you can't move it at all, you have too many shims... you need to allow just a tiny amount of play there.

The clutch bell should spin freely with NO DRAG. You should be able to flick it with your finger and it should continue to spin freely for several seconds without stopping.

So, to recap... don't mix and match clutchbell/flywheel/shoes without checking VERY CAREFULLY. Don't mix and match the taper fitting between different types of flywheels. Just because the taper fitting might come with an engine doesn't mean it fits YOUR type of flywheel! (A good example of this is the Werks engine... it has a lovely fitting... if you are running the Werks clutch setup!) Make sure the flywheel has a slight amount of clearance between the engine side of the flywheel and the front of the engine case, but don't overdo it. Make sure the clutch bell isn't dragging on either the face of the flywheel OR the pins that hold the shoes. Shim the clutch bell out for clearance, then use the needed amount of remaining shims to set the end play on the clutch bell. Don't mix and match the collet nut for the flywheel between brands, they are NOT the same. Make sure you have a SLIGHT amount of end-play in the clutch bell. Don't use shims that can rub the outer bearing race.

Ok, hope that wasn't too complicated, and I hope it helps.

Brad
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