a few questions about RB concepts engines
10-20-2007, 05:22 PM
#1
a few questions about RB concepts engines
I have a losi 8 buggy with its second bad motor. The first was the 427 which had about 5 gallons on it when the backplate came loose(my fault). the recent was a AXIAL.28 spec1. this motor never seen temps above 230 and always seemed sluggish to me since it was new.(but it is shot now with no pinch left at all) My son's has the same motor and runs fine.I can't decide between another 427 or I have heard good things about the RB concepts.I am not sure of the difference between the s7 or the ws7 or the ws7III.I seen the s7 with pipe for under $300.this sounds good for me,but I could buy two mach427's for this.We run on a track with 120' stright, doubles and rollers and even a 35' triple. I am more interested in longivity than anything. I run with 3 more 427's,my son's axial,HPI, One dynamite .28 plat. and one mach.28.just wonder if anyone could help me make up my mind,and explain the diffs in the RB's.
thanks:
thanks:
10-20-2007, 05:25 PM
#2
The WS7III is in my mind, the best all around engine on the market. It is really easy to tune, idles forever, and gives you enough power for almost any sized track. The only thing you have to watch is to break it in with a heat gun like any new "race" engine, and follow the break in the instruction manual gives you, and it should easily last 8 gallons or more.
10-20-2007, 06:01 PM
#3
I forgot to mention I have a JP-2 pipe. I am running 20% blue thunder fuel.
10-20-2007, 06:33 PM
#5
I still need a new motor. can anyone tell me the difference in the s7 and the ws7, and the ws7III?
10-20-2007, 08:09 PM
#6
the main difference is in how the engines timing and ports are cut. If you want a balls to the wall motor, get the ws7iii but I would recommend the s7 as its plenty fast and cheaper. The will all last the same amount of time though.
10-20-2007, 09:19 PM
#7
I have used my WS7II (same power/speed as WS7III) for 9 gallons. For me that is plenty of life, as by that time I am bored of the engine and want a new one. This one happened to develop enough conrod slop at 9 gallons as to stall at high rpm.
Now I run a C6BB and honestly it is a kick ass engine, but definitely not needed for most at a club level. However, for your first or second nitro engine, I do not recommend buying an expensive race engine, as most at this time are still learning how to tune and maintain their engine.
Rody from RB recommends a conrod change every 1.5 gallons or so, and possibly a conrod change after break in, which I have done. It took me 4 engines to be comfortable tuning my engine for practice sessions vs race sessions.
As far as the engines you have mentioned, the S5 and S7 are "budget" motors, however there really is nothing "budget" about these engines as far as performance. The driver with a smoother throttle finger, and consistently fast laptimes is the one to win, not the one with a high end mill, unless its a POS engine
Remember, this is a hobby, buy what you want and can afford. RB engines are some of the highest caliber engines out there.
Now I run a C6BB and honestly it is a kick ass engine, but definitely not needed for most at a club level. However, for your first or second nitro engine, I do not recommend buying an expensive race engine, as most at this time are still learning how to tune and maintain their engine.
Rody from RB recommends a conrod change every 1.5 gallons or so, and possibly a conrod change after break in, which I have done. It took me 4 engines to be comfortable tuning my engine for practice sessions vs race sessions.
As far as the engines you have mentioned, the S5 and S7 are "budget" motors, however there really is nothing "budget" about these engines as far as performance. The driver with a smoother throttle finger, and consistently fast laptimes is the one to win, not the one with a high end mill, unless its a POS engine
Remember, this is a hobby, buy what you want and can afford. RB engines are some of the highest caliber engines out there.
10-20-2007, 09:30 PM
#8
breakin in of engine ,rb c6
i am quite keen on the rb c6 t7. heard the latest is the c6 t7 something like tat. one question ,wat is the actual procedure need to be done for breaking in of engine.
i heard things like, shimming (say 1.0mm)up the engine first. then run low percent of nitro. after tat remove the shim (the 1.0mm shim put in 0.3mm, cant really remember the thickness just an assumption). run back 25 percent of fuel. after 2 or 3 galloon then fine tune the engine to optimum performaace.
are all these necessary ?
i heard things like, shimming (say 1.0mm)up the engine first. then run low percent of nitro. after tat remove the shim (the 1.0mm shim put in 0.3mm, cant really remember the thickness just an assumption). run back 25 percent of fuel. after 2 or 3 galloon then fine tune the engine to optimum performaace.
are all these necessary ?
I have used my WS7II (same power/speed as WS7III) for 9 gallons. For me that is plenty of life, as by that time I am bored of the engine and want a new one. This one happened to develop enough conrod slop at 9 gallons as to stall at high rpm.
Now I run a C6BB and honestly it is a kick ass engine, but definitely not needed for most at a club level. However, for your first or second nitro engine, I do not recommend buying an expensive race engine, as most at this time are still learning how to tune and maintain their engine.
Rody from RB recommends a conrod change every 1.5 gallons or so, and possibly a conrod change after break in, which I have done. It took me 4 engines to be comfortable tuning my engine for practice sessions vs race sessions.
As far as the engines you have mentioned, the S5 and S7 are "budget" motors, however there really is nothing "budget" about these engines as far as performance. The driver with a smoother throttle finger, and consistently fast laptimes is the one to win, not the one with a high end mill, unless its a POS engine
Remember, this is a hobby, buy what you want and can afford. RB engines are some of the highest caliber engines out there.
Now I run a C6BB and honestly it is a kick ass engine, but definitely not needed for most at a club level. However, for your first or second nitro engine, I do not recommend buying an expensive race engine, as most at this time are still learning how to tune and maintain their engine.
Rody from RB recommends a conrod change every 1.5 gallons or so, and possibly a conrod change after break in, which I have done. It took me 4 engines to be comfortable tuning my engine for practice sessions vs race sessions.
As far as the engines you have mentioned, the S5 and S7 are "budget" motors, however there really is nothing "budget" about these engines as far as performance. The driver with a smoother throttle finger, and consistently fast laptimes is the one to win, not the one with a high end mill, unless its a POS engine
Remember, this is a hobby, buy what you want and can afford. RB engines are some of the highest caliber engines out there.
10-20-2007, 09:58 PM
#9
the insides of the ws7 are treated for longer wear and the ws7 has a larger head. i would say that an s7 is a nice enough engine for club or bigger races. it has more top end than my c6bb just isnt as linear from low-mid speeds and excellerates slower than a c6. with the gearing of the losi i would think an s7 would be pretty sweet in it.
10-21-2007, 12:14 AM
#10
Any decent to good .21 is going to feel like a rocket in the Losi.If your just looking for a motor that is reliable and will still produce good power for club racing any of the RB`s S3,S5 or S7 would be plenty to get the Job done.Any of the lower budget RB will serve your purpose and will perform better and out last any of the engines that you are racing against..... if you take care of it properly.I am currently running a OS VG with a OS 2050 and put down faster lap times than people that paid 300+ for there engine.Controlable power is better than wasted power...
10-21-2007, 06:47 AM
#11
parker....i guess you got mistakes on the break in process of your axial engine...according to you it never goes above 230... am right. I appreciate axial engines....powerfull its not just cheap engine...breaking in at low temp is a no no no ....at low temp the sleeve doest expand....so you just spoil your piston (wear out) next time you got a new engine, broke it with high temp...I'd rather see it overheat than to seat on it. good luck...
10-21-2007, 10:09 AM
#12
Good thread, these ?'s helped me out also. 
10-21-2007, 12:40 PM
#13
i am quite keen on the rb c6 t7. heard the latest is the c6 t7 something like tat. one question ,wat is the actual procedure need to be done for breaking in of engine.
i heard things like, shimming (say 1.0mm)up the engine first. then run low percent of nitro. after tat remove the shim (the 1.0mm shim put in 0.3mm, cant really remember the thickness just an assumption). run back 25 percent of fuel. after 2 or 3 galloon then fine tune the engine to optimum performaace.
are all these necessary ?
i heard things like, shimming (say 1.0mm)up the engine first. then run low percent of nitro. after tat remove the shim (the 1.0mm shim put in 0.3mm, cant really remember the thickness just an assumption). run back 25 percent of fuel. after 2 or 3 galloon then fine tune the engine to optimum performaace.
are all these necessary ?
BTW rossoh10, we would be glad to have you come to our track. I saw your post on our forum. I will talk with our club president about arranging a bigger race so we get the majority of our club members and guests out there at once. About the RB, the C6BB came first and then the C6BB7T. The 7T uses a turbo plug, 7mm venturi and lighter cooling head, plus other undocumented changes.
10-21-2007, 06:17 PM
#14
got it. thanks. there many many ways of running in the engine.
just wonder which is the best way. i wil visit the web site to view the manual.
just wonder which is the best way. i wil visit the web site to view the manual.
Just follow the steps in the engine manual that comes with the engine. You can decide to break in your engine however you like, but the process in the manual will be supported by RB. If you are UP TO 1000' and are running 30% use .3mm of shims total, however this is a blanket statement. IT SHOULD cover those 2 conditions, bit also depends on many other environmental factors. Go to the RB forums and read what Rody has to say.
BTW rossoh10, we would be glad to have you come to our track. I saw your post on our forum. I will talk with our club president about arranging a bigger race so we get the majority of our club members and guests out there at once. About the RB, the C6BB came first and then the C6BB7T. The 7T uses a turbo plug, 7mm venturi and lighter cooling head, plus other undocumented changes.
BTW rossoh10, we would be glad to have you come to our track. I saw your post on our forum. I will talk with our club president about arranging a bigger race so we get the majority of our club members and guests out there at once. About the RB, the C6BB came first and then the C6BB7T. The 7T uses a turbo plug, 7mm venturi and lighter cooling head, plus other undocumented changes.
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