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Old 11-12-2007, 10:16 PM   #31
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I agree with you Tony, anything we can do to save money is more money for our GF's or wifes to spend Well maybe it just lets us spend money in other places...there is always a upgrade somewere that needs done
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Old 11-13-2007, 12:16 PM   #32
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Default OFNA 10250 part number

OFNA's part number 10250 is a universal box with one big-ass hi-torque motor. Unfortuantely for me, I NEED to have a seperate box for my 8th scale ON-Road cars, just because I'd rather have a smaller box (like my mugen starter) for my MRX4r.

If it's buggy/truggy application, you can easily use the OFNA - I use my 10250 for my MBX5T ProSpec, my Werks Mayhem AND my OFNA jammin- the box has more torque than anything else (more than typical 2x540 motor boxes) and for 89 bucks or thereabout, would be my affordable multi-car choice...
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Old 11-13-2007, 02:39 PM   #33
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I had the ofna 10250 but it seems it ran out of juice. I don't know if it is the gel cell or motor. I am replacing it with a mugen box. I used one a few weeks ago and it is so much more convenient then my ofna box. I guess because it is so much LIGHTER. My ofna box felt like I was carrying bricks around. Also, the dual 540 motors seemed to have A LOT more power then my ofna. But that could be due to it running out of juice. I can't remember how much power my ofna box had when i first got it, so I can't really compare. I just know that the Mugen box I tried a few weeks ago and TONS of ponies.

So, I end up ordering a Mugen box and Tony's TruBuggy stater box kit. I'll let you guys know how it works out for me.
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Old 11-13-2007, 03:29 PM   #34
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Default agree on weight..

I agree about the weight of it. as for juice, that thing cranks alot harder than my mugen box, cause my mugen box can't spin up a 28- but this one can easily. how are you charging that gel cell??? I don't know if I'm doing the right thing myself, but I am using a vision peak ultra, at 1 amp, on the 'NiCD' setting - as opposed to NiMH or LiPo. So far it seems to work great- except for I had a brand new REX 421B and initial break in was a C U Next Tuesday... any box would have had a hard time- the 10250 did, but it still worked well. try a good charge or new cell...

regarding overall package: no doub the mugen's alot nicer- it's made out of nice brushed aluminum while the ofna's a cheap ass steal box. the mugen's made to work specfically with my mrx4r, and no doubt- the fit is perfect- it just works tits...thing is, it wouldn't spin up a big block- only the on-road 21s i am using. the 10250 is as good as the user is, in terms of taking the time to set up the top pan correctly, and finding the best fit- it was a pain in the ass with my prospec, but the box works good, so it was worth the time to fit it perfectly. it spins up a big block and that tight ol 421b fine

which mugen box were you using?
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Old 11-13-2007, 07:43 PM   #35
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When I bought my first two purple Mugen starter boxes a few years ago I noticed that how you align the car on the box makes a HUGE difference in how much torque it has starting the motor. I also noticed a huge difference getting rid of the cheap Tamiya connectors and replaced them with Dean's Ultra Plugs. I sold both of them when the new gray Mugen boxes came out (I always hated that purple color....LOL ). I switched from two stick packs to the single 4S LiPo when I got the new gray box.

But anyways, change the plugs on your Mugen boxes if you haven't done so already. Then on the alignment, adjust the pegs so that the car is as far to the right (passenger side) of the box as possible. Just moving it a few millimeters makes a HUGE difference....trust me! I also shim up the motor cage assembly 2mm with two washers between the cage and the box on the four mounting screws. My box turned over my new .28 Ninja like it was an old worn out motor....LOL

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Old 11-14-2007, 09:18 AM   #36
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http://xtremerc.com/pages/howto.php?howto=28&page=2

I think this link is a good way to setup your starter box.
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Old 11-19-2007, 08:25 PM   #37
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i used the Tony's Screws Conversion this weekend and it worked flawless

here are pics of both my truck and buggy on it..





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Old 11-19-2007, 08:37 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imaxx21 View Post
i used the Tony's Screws Conversion this weekend and it worked flawless

here are pics of both my truck and buggy on it..
thats great im gonna have to get the kit, then i can get rid of one start box...ill be down to 3...
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Old 11-19-2007, 08:43 PM   #39
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cant go wrong with Tony's Screws
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Old 11-19-2007, 09:14 PM   #40
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i dont know if you went to last rcx held in anahiem but there i got some of those GRP foam carstands and i trimmed 2 pieces about a 1/4 thick and bolted them down where the pegs go , now all you have to do is line up the flywheel with the bumpbox, i can get pics if you really need them but it isnt that hard!!
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Old 11-19-2007, 11:19 PM   #41
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i got the kit, i just haven't installed it yet...
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Old 11-20-2007, 12:40 PM   #42
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Great pics Imaxx!

If you look at how Imaxx installed my conversion kit you can see instead of making slots, he just drilled two holes for the retractable buttons.

To do this just remove the rear alignment posts. Adjust the front pegs so the MBX5R and MBX5T both line up with the starter wheel. Then reinstall the rear posts, mark them, remove again and then drill out the two holes in the same spot for the retractable buttons. This of course will work only if you plan on running that single buggy and no other cars where you may need to adjust the retractable buttons.

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Old 11-20-2007, 06:41 PM   #43
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Does this work for the MBX5T and the prospec (not the R)?
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Old 11-21-2007, 11:39 AM   #44
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yes it should work fine..

as long as the starter box hole in the same place on the chassis as the R
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Old 11-21-2007, 04:26 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teeforb View Post
Does this work for the MBX5T and the prospec (not the R)?
Yes, the MBX5, MBX5 ProSpec and MBX5R chassis have the same layout.

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