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Old 10-19-2007, 10:50 AM   #31
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don't think this has been mentioned but it is helpful to heat the engine up before starting it. when an engine is cold and new the piston will want to stick in the sleeve until it gets up to temperature, making it hard to idle
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Old 10-19-2007, 11:08 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Ephidelt490 View Post
Try loosening your glow plug a half turn/full turn. This will make it easier to start. Just be sure not too unscrew it too much, lol. Leave the ignitor on and screw it in using the ignitor once it starts(you don't need it super tight, worry about that after break-in).
I agree with this poster here, because what loosening the glo plug will do is to help release some of the compression from a new tight engine like this. And yes, leaving the ignitor on will definately help until it gets warm enough to stay running on its own without the ignitor on it.
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Old 10-19-2007, 02:04 PM   #33
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Ok, it starts! By adjusting the idle screw so that the truck is moving forward without me applying the throttle the engine starts and runs until I shut it off. If I attempt to lower the idle setting so the truck will sit still, the engine shuts off.

So, from this point are there any methods for getting the engine to idle without needing to be moving the truck? Also, is it ok to adjust the engine screws while it is on?

Thanks for all of the advice, due to this thread I can start it now!
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Old 10-19-2007, 02:09 PM   #34
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yes its essential to tune the engine with it running, and preferably while it is at operating temperature. (after about 3 mins of running). (i reccomend tuning the idle screw with the engine on too. remember in (righty tighty lefty loosy) is more RPM. if it is stalling when you lower the idle the low speed is too rich. just lower the idle until it just about runs, and tune it all properly when the engine is run in properly.
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Old 10-19-2007, 03:05 PM   #35
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whey u say adjusting idle are you using the trim???? or the needle.. cause u need to adjust the needle not use trim to compinsate..
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Old 10-19-2007, 03:12 PM   #36
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There is an idle screw that I adjust, not sure if that is the trim or needle that you are talking about.
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Old 10-19-2007, 03:42 PM   #37
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Personally I still think the mixture screw on the low end is out maybe too rich, because in order for the engine too keep running its relying on high revs, now when you lower the idle the engine dies because its too rich and it no longer has the high idle to keep it pushing the fuel through.
Start up the engine on a high idle so that it will run then lean out the low end only very small increments then lower the idle and see if the engine will idle any better.
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Old 10-19-2007, 03:46 PM   #38
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But remember as your new to this and so far you have not picked up all the signs of a engine when its running rich or lean you need to be very careful with your adjustments, as you engine could equally be too lean.
now by adjusting very small increments you are able to see the signs of the engine improving or not without going to far on the needle settings that you do damage, if it does not improve try adjusting the other direction.
But id still go with too rich on low end.
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Old 10-19-2007, 04:09 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by AndyM View Post
Personally I still think the mixture screw on the low end is out maybe too rich, because in order for the engine too keep running its relying on high revs, now when you lower the idle the engine dies because its too rich and it no longer has the high idle to keep it pushing the fuel through.
Start up the engine on a high idle so that it will run then lean out the low end only very small increments then lower the idle and see if the engine will idle any better.
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But remember as your new to this and so far you have not picked up all the signs of a engine when its running rich or lean you need to be very careful with your adjustments, as you engine could equally be too lean.
now by adjusting very small increments you are able to see the signs of the engine improving or not without going to far on the needle settings that you do damage, if it does not improve try adjusting the other direction.
But id still go with too rich on low end.
couldnt have said it any better myself
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Old 10-20-2007, 03:03 AM   #40
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Don't worry about your engine being deffective or you being clumsy. We've all gone through exactly the same when trying to break in our motor!!

All that I read sounds like good advice:

-Plug and ignitor are ok...
-Heating the motor (even with a hair dryer) before starting helps it to not stick and improoves behaviour later on.
-It also helps to loosen your plug a bit and tighten it back with the ignitor once the motor is running.
-Start your truck on a big piece of wood or a brick , so the wheels are off the ground and you can tune it with out the truck taking off. A strarter box takes care of both issues at one time.
-Always tune your motor when it is at working temperature. At least let it run with slight taps on throttle for a couple minutes.
-I'd say also lean out (clock-wise) a bit the low end needle and lower idle (counterclock-wise) a bit, ...carefully!! Little by little. Alow a few seconds for changes to take efect.
-Take it easy and enjoy!!!
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Old 10-20-2007, 05:27 AM   #41
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trim is on the radio, and adjusting that could cause the motor to stall when you brake. the needle is on the carb, usually just forward of the air intake.
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Old 10-20-2007, 08:58 AM   #42
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I just ran my first break in tank. It took some fiddling with the screws per the advice in this thread, but I got it to idle for at least a minute or so without shutting off. I'm letting it cool down before I fill her up and run the second break in tank.

Thanks for all the help! You guys rock.
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