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Old 10-02-2007, 04:34 PM   #1
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Default FORCE .25 PISTON STOPS AT TOP OF SLEEVE!!!!! HELP!!

Alright, i just got this LX pro buggy and it came with an ofna force .25 and i take the buggy out, start it and run it for a bit every other day then put it away and today it was working fine until about 1/3 tank of running then it just stoped running. i couldnt pull start it so i checked out the pull start and it was fine, so i tried moving the flywheel and found out that the piston is stopped at the top of the sleeve and wont crank any further. any suggestions?
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Pre-mix:
Kawisaki KX125-bored out to a 134cc, VForce reed valves, FMF gold series pipe and shorty silencer, phathead racing cyl head w/ interchangeable domes, and wiseco flat to piston
Nitro:
Ofna Ultra LX Pro- Axial .28 1S w/ JP-2 Pipe, Hitec HS5645MG(steering) and Hitec HS625MG(Throttle/Brake)
Electric:
Losi Micro-T- stock
Coming soon: Associated FT B4- stock

Ofna LX Pro as a roller w/ extras- $150
Starter box(1/8 buggy) w/12V battery- $70
micro T- $50 OBO
Axial .28 1S- 6 gal. thru- $50 OBO
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Old 10-02-2007, 05:16 PM   #2
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please help im pretty sick of this motor being in a coma
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Pre-mix:
Kawisaki KX125-bored out to a 134cc, VForce reed valves, FMF gold series pipe and shorty silencer, phathead racing cyl head w/ interchangeable domes, and wiseco flat to piston
Nitro:
Ofna Ultra LX Pro- Axial .28 1S w/ JP-2 Pipe, Hitec HS5645MG(steering) and Hitec HS625MG(Throttle/Brake)
Electric:
Losi Micro-T- stock
Coming soon: Associated FT B4- stock

Ofna LX Pro as a roller w/ extras- $150
Starter box(1/8 buggy) w/12V battery- $70
micro T- $50 OBO
Axial .28 1S- 6 gal. thru- $50 OBO
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Old 10-02-2007, 05:26 PM   #3
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try heating the motor with a blow dryer or heat gun and then turn the motor by hand, hopefully it will expand enough to move it.
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Old 10-02-2007, 05:41 PM   #4
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i'll try right now
__________________
Pre-mix:
Kawisaki KX125-bored out to a 134cc, VForce reed valves, FMF gold series pipe and shorty silencer, phathead racing cyl head w/ interchangeable domes, and wiseco flat to piston
Nitro:
Ofna Ultra LX Pro- Axial .28 1S w/ JP-2 Pipe, Hitec HS5645MG(steering) and Hitec HS625MG(Throttle/Brake)
Electric:
Losi Micro-T- stock
Coming soon: Associated FT B4- stock

Ofna LX Pro as a roller w/ extras- $150
Starter box(1/8 buggy) w/12V battery- $70
micro T- $50 OBO
Axial .28 1S- 6 gal. thru- $50 OBO
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Old 10-02-2007, 05:49 PM   #5
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tried at 120, 160, and 210 degrees and still nothing.
__________________
Pre-mix:
Kawisaki KX125-bored out to a 134cc, VForce reed valves, FMF gold series pipe and shorty silencer, phathead racing cyl head w/ interchangeable domes, and wiseco flat to piston
Nitro:
Ofna Ultra LX Pro- Axial .28 1S w/ JP-2 Pipe, Hitec HS5645MG(steering) and Hitec HS625MG(Throttle/Brake)
Electric:
Losi Micro-T- stock
Coming soon: Associated FT B4- stock

Ofna LX Pro as a roller w/ extras- $150
Starter box(1/8 buggy) w/12V battery- $70
micro T- $50 OBO
Axial .28 1S- 6 gal. thru- $50 OBO
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:14 PM   #6
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Just sell it to me for $25 because you 're obviously incapable of figuring out the most basic nitro engine workings even after having read most every thread and asked nearly every question. Get some patience. All of your answers are available by using the "search" feature.
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:55 PM   #7
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im asking for help dumb@$$, and obviosly YOU are incapable of giving any.

can some one actually help im not firmilliar with force engines.
and i cant get the head off due to the guy i bought it from got some locktite in the place where the hex wrench goes and it got stripped out.

P.S. i looked through threads satoch
__________________
Pre-mix:
Kawisaki KX125-bored out to a 134cc, VForce reed valves, FMF gold series pipe and shorty silencer, phathead racing cyl head w/ interchangeable domes, and wiseco flat to piston
Nitro:
Ofna Ultra LX Pro- Axial .28 1S w/ JP-2 Pipe, Hitec HS5645MG(steering) and Hitec HS625MG(Throttle/Brake)
Electric:
Losi Micro-T- stock
Coming soon: Associated FT B4- stock

Ofna LX Pro as a roller w/ extras- $150
Starter box(1/8 buggy) w/12V battery- $70
micro T- $50 OBO
Axial .28 1S- 6 gal. thru- $50 OBO

Last edited by jatoman1992; 10-02-2007 at 07:06 PM.
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Old 10-02-2007, 07:17 PM   #8
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Both the LX Pro and the Force .25 are pretty old models. On top of that you say you got it used and have been running it previously, now it is stuck. Sounds to me like it's possibly worse off than that. You should pull the engine out and take off the back plate (i.e. pull start first, then backplate). See if it's damaged or the rod is snapped. Anything along those lines. I also suggest you find a way to get the head off and do a complete inspection of the engine and bearings.

I've never stripped a head bolt, but I hear you can use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and coming in from the side cut the top off the head bolt. There are other ways too, but like I said I've (luckilly) never had to utilize them. Let us know what you find.

Scott
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Old 10-02-2007, 07:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKOT View Post
Both the LX Pro and the Force .25 are pretty old models. On top of that you say you got it used and have been running it previously, now it is stuck. Sounds to me like it's possibly worse off than that. You should pull the engine out and take off the back plate (i.e. pull start first, then backplate). See if it's damaged or the rod is snapped. Anything along those lines. I also suggest you find a way to get the head off and do a complete inspection of the engine and bearings.

I've never stripped a head bolt, but I hear you can use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and coming in from the side cut the top off the head bolt. There are other ways too, but like I said I've (luckilly) never had to utilize them. Let us know what you find.

Scott
yeah i know there was about a gallon of fuel throught the motor when i got it. i took off pull start and backplate and the rod looks to be in great shape, and nothing that i could see looked damaged not bearings piston looks good from the bottom of crankcase where backplate was.

u are lucky, it has happened to me twice all thanks to people using loc-tite wrong. im guessing what ever is wrong has to be coming from area around the head.

or should i get a new motor
__________________
Pre-mix:
Kawisaki KX125-bored out to a 134cc, VForce reed valves, FMF gold series pipe and shorty silencer, phathead racing cyl head w/ interchangeable domes, and wiseco flat to piston
Nitro:
Ofna Ultra LX Pro- Axial .28 1S w/ JP-2 Pipe, Hitec HS5645MG(steering) and Hitec HS625MG(Throttle/Brake)
Electric:
Losi Micro-T- stock
Coming soon: Associated FT B4- stock

Ofna LX Pro as a roller w/ extras- $150
Starter box(1/8 buggy) w/12V battery- $70
micro T- $50 OBO
Axial .28 1S- 6 gal. thru- $50 OBO
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:13 PM   #10
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Can you move the flywheel at all? If there is any movement in the flywheel then there is a good chance that the rod is shot. You might not see it if it happened up at the piston. Also, take out your glow plug and look for any debris. One more thing, what happened when it died? Was it running fine then just shut off instantly like someone flipped a switch? These are all bad signs. I hope I'm wrong but unfortunately I've had a little experience with that! LOL. Good luck! Other than a shot conrod there is just no reason why you shouldn't be able to somehow force it off of TDC.
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:35 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jatoman1992 View Post
or should i get a new motor
Well now that you throw that into the equation.

If you can swing it go for it. Force engines are basically RTR quality anyway. Then you can tear this one all the way down to it's bare components. You will gain a greater understanding of nitro engines and how they work once you've done that. And what better engine to learn on than one that isn't working anyway.
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Old 10-03-2007, 04:37 AM   #12
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try using a flat head screw driver and pry the flywheel, it should move if the engine is in good condition.
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Old 10-03-2007, 08:24 AM   #13
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You can cut the heads off of the screws on many engines by going between the cooling fins. Remove the head and button. And then heat the screws with a soldering iron. Use Vice Grips to remove them. Then replace with new screws. I've done it.

Then disassemble the engine as normal to find the problem.
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Old 10-03-2007, 01:24 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slaytanic View Post
Can you move the flywheel at all? If there is any movement in the flywheel then there is a good chance that the rod is shot. You might not see it if it happened up at the piston. Also, take out your glow plug and look for any debris. One more thing, what happened when it died? Was it running fine then just shut off instantly like someone flipped a switch? These are all bad signs. I hope I'm wrong but unfortunately I've had a little experience with that! LOL. Good luck! Other than a shot conrod there is just no reason why you shouldn't be able to somehow force it off of TDC.
i can move the flywheel both clock/counter clock wise untill it gets to the top of the sleeve, then it just gets stuck. when it died it seemed someone fliped a switch it was very..disturbing and after there was a big puddle of oil/ nitro mix in the exhaust.
__________________
Pre-mix:
Kawisaki KX125-bored out to a 134cc, VForce reed valves, FMF gold series pipe and shorty silencer, phathead racing cyl head w/ interchangeable domes, and wiseco flat to piston
Nitro:
Ofna Ultra LX Pro- Axial .28 1S w/ JP-2 Pipe, Hitec HS5645MG(steering) and Hitec HS625MG(Throttle/Brake)
Electric:
Losi Micro-T- stock
Coming soon: Associated FT B4- stock

Ofna LX Pro as a roller w/ extras- $150
Starter box(1/8 buggy) w/12V battery- $70
micro T- $50 OBO
Axial .28 1S- 6 gal. thru- $50 OBO
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Old 10-03-2007, 01:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satoch View Post
You can cut the heads off of the screws on many engines by going between the cooling fins. Remove the head and button. And then heat the screws with a soldering iron. Use Vice Grips to remove them. Then replace with new screws. I've done it.

Then disassemble the engine as normal to find the problem.
i tried that but the wheel i have for my dremmel isn't long enough and i couldnt find one big enough at any hardware store around here. what are vice grips?
i might just take it to my LHS and see if they have a tool long enough to chop the top off.
__________________
Pre-mix:
Kawisaki KX125-bored out to a 134cc, VForce reed valves, FMF gold series pipe and shorty silencer, phathead racing cyl head w/ interchangeable domes, and wiseco flat to piston
Nitro:
Ofna Ultra LX Pro- Axial .28 1S w/ JP-2 Pipe, Hitec HS5645MG(steering) and Hitec HS625MG(Throttle/Brake)
Electric:
Losi Micro-T- stock
Coming soon: Associated FT B4- stock

Ofna LX Pro as a roller w/ extras- $150
Starter box(1/8 buggy) w/12V battery- $70
micro T- $50 OBO
Axial .28 1S- 6 gal. thru- $50 OBO
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