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Old 10-25-2007, 12:03 AM   #31
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what are the factory needle settings on the carb ? someone please help!
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Old 10-25-2007, 03:05 AM   #32
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what are the factory needle settings on the carb ? someone please help!
Hello,
Factory settings for the Blue head V-Spec are
Low speed - Rotate the Metering Needle until its slotted head is flush with the ball link body.
Mid Range - First rotate the Mixture Control Valve until its slotted head is flush with the carburetor body. Then screw the valve in exactly 1 turn. (I would recommend never changing this unless you have a lot of experience tuning motors as you can get it horibly wrong if you change this too much.)
High Speed - No setting stated however I would suggest winding the needle fully in (do not force it once it bottoms out) then back out the needle approx 2.5-2.75 turns, this will be in the ball park.

Here is a link to the Standard V-Spec manual, the stuff about factory settings is on page 22
http://manuals.hobbico.com/osm/21vzb-vspec-manual.pdf

Cheers..........Dave
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:45 AM   #33
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thanks very much
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Old 11-02-2007, 03:29 PM   #34
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how has everyone run their engine in and do you suggest that a Temp gauge is used? ill probably use the tips that i read about that GO engies and other use that being wraping the head in aluminium foil and then useing a hair dryer to reach the minimum temp to allow the engine to expand a bit which in end result will reduce the amount of stress on the engine namely stress of the conrod.

would you recommend useing a Temp gauge? to be able to track the temp and make sure it isnt too high...
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Old 11-02-2007, 08:29 PM   #35
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I recommend using the temp gun. I am unsure if a hairdryer will suffice. I ran 2 tanks of 10% through my Mamba last night on initial break-in. I had foil wrapped around the head, rich needle settings (nice smoky exhaust-castor oil based), and I had a hard time keeping the engine above 210F. I throw the hair dryer on it to heat it up and it got cooler! The hair dryer air alone was enough to drop, not raise the temp. I find most hair driers can only kick out 160F. It seems hot to your hand, but no where the same as a heat gun.
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Old 11-03-2007, 06:39 PM   #36
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alright koo azz thanks for the info.
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Old 01-07-2008, 11:26 PM   #37
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Questions??

Is there any way to identify the '07 version V-Specs without taking them apart? Picking one up from the lhs and want to make sure I get the latest and greatest
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Old 01-07-2008, 11:58 PM   #38
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Is there any way to identify the '07 version V-Specs without taking them apart? Picking one up from the lhs and want to make sure I get the latest and greatest
Look for the silver back plate and shoulders where the bolts go to the case.
Pic is from EB Mods website. The case on the left is 06 and one one the right is 07.
Attached Thumbnails
OS  .21 VZ-B Problems if any..-2006%2520vs%25202007%2520case%2520change.jpg  
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Old 01-08-2008, 10:30 AM   #39
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Thanks
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Old 01-08-2008, 11:17 AM   #40
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No no....other way around. 07 is on the left and 06 is on the right.
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Old 01-08-2008, 06:40 PM   #41
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No no....other way around. 07 is on the left and 06 is on the right.
Thanks, I wasn't sure, and EB pic didn't really point this out, but I least we know what the differences are.
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Old 01-08-2008, 09:53 PM   #42
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ill be running my vspec in this week when i get some fresh fuel from Massivemods. www.massivemods.com.au and ive wraped the head firmly from top of the head to bottom to keep heat and bought a temp. gauge ages ago, saw one of the OCM guys at my track run one thats just been breaken in and man i love the power band and torque. cant wait! the one thing he was experiencing was that the engine didnt have alot of compression, he could turn it over while in buggy with ease.

would this chnage once the engine is totally run in? or?
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Old 01-13-2008, 09:02 PM   #43
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I rebuilt my VSPEC last fall with a new sleeve/piston/conrod. While it was apart I noticed a "possible" cause for the need to rebuild. While everything was apart I noticed the upper bolt holes for the backplate are drilled completely thru the case, and come out on the inside of the side intake ports of the casting. they are then tapped for the backplate screws. These areas inside the ports had very small bits of threaded aluminum barely attached to the case.
Hard to explain, but it looked like the pieces of threaded material could come off and travel thru the engine, so I used an Exacto to clean up the holes , best I could.
Something to keep an eye out for, if you happen to have yours apart. I suspect this may have been the cause for my engine failure. Maybe not.
I just wanted to mention it to others who get into their engine, and they can prevent it before it becomes a problem. It only took a few minutes to do, but I felt more assured that it wasn't going to be a problem later.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:07 AM   #44
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Hello all,

I have had my V-Spec for quite some time and am on my second piston/sleeve/rod. I am just curious how many head spacers you all use? Do you use the thin one/thick one or both at the same time ? Just curious about performance difference and what might change.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:37 AM   #45
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I just bought a hitec agressor 3ch with a module with a sticker 40.695 Mhz.
Is it a problem if i am using a pair of 40.715 crystals?
I am asking this because this thing is not working at all!!!
Can somebody tell me what is exactly the module?
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