Question.Which of the GO engines would work the best in a truggy.I have the 5 port standard plug in my buggy.Should I put the 5 port in my truggy and buy a 7 port for my buggy...or what?Any input on motor and pipe combanation for a 8T would be apprecticated.
I was thinking about the .28 6 port but I can`t find any specs on this engine,or what pipe works good with it.
I've run the 5 port in both a 8T & a MBX5R. It has a little too much bottom for the buggy with a 13 bell I had to use 14 tooth and softer clutch spring (I went from mugen 1.1 to mugen 1.0) Then it was dialed. It's a perfect match for my 8T with the 13 bell. strong bottom and strong top to match. I would imagine the 7 port would be a better buggy motor with softer bottom and higher top end.
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Losi 8ight-T C6BB7T 2045 JR 9000S/T
Mugen MBX5R GO 5 port 086 Hitec 5997TG/JR 9000S
All controlled by 3PK/FASST
I've run the 5 port in both a 8T & a MBX5R. It has a little too much bottom for the buggy with a 13 bell I had to use 14 tooth and softer clutch spring (I went from mugen 1.1 to mugen 1.0) Then it was dialed. It's a perfect match for my 8T with the 13 bell. strong bottom and strong top to match. I would imagine the 7 port would be a better buggy motor with softer bottom and higher top end.
I agree. I run the 5 port in my 8B with a 13t bell and I've been doing everything I can to tame the bottom end for the loose outdoor season dirt. The Werks clutch with carbon shoes and the softest spring along with a 7mm restrictor has taken care of it while getting me 8:10 mins.
I've run the 5 port in both a 8T & a MBX5R. It has a little too much bottom for the buggy with a 13 bell I had to use 14 tooth and softer clutch spring (I went from mugen 1.1 to mugen 1.0) Then it was dialed. It's a perfect match for my 8T with the 13 bell. strong bottom and strong top to match. I would imagine the 7 port would be a better buggy motor with softer bottom and higher top end.
What pipe are you running?I`m running a JP2 and 14 tooth in my 8ight buggy and really like the bottom end it produces and it still has tons of top end.I`m glad I didn`t go with a JP1 because it probably would of been too much.I know from running the buggy that I`m going to need a little more bottom end with out losing too much top end for truggy
well it's not that hard to break off fins on the Go tech cooling head as they have lightened them a fair bit. I don't know wheather they have upgraded them since I brought mine as I've have mine for quite a while (it's done about 9-10 gallons and is still on it's original internals).
I have actually had fins on 2 heads come loose the original gold head and the silver 5port that i replaced it with, I also know of at least 8 others that have had the same problem.
As for my driving I'm currently ranked top 10 in my country
WHAT??? you are saying 8 other people have had fins break off?? I find that hard to beleive unless your track is made up of concrete. Honestly now, I can see bending a fin but breaking them, lets be realistic here. I can say that the GO heads are solid and dont bend like some other top dollar engines.
Wow, you are ranked in top 10 in your country. Thats sweet! What country? What is your name? Are you sponsored?
My old Go Tech .25 CXP had 3 cooling fins also break, i find the heat sinks to be of poor manufacture, my .21 5 Port hasnt done it as of yet but its still pretty new. Yes this is a common fault on these heat sinks.
Seems to shake or break about the second ring down from the top and the two below it and it doesnt happen from bad knocks IMO.
What pipe are you running?I`m running a JP2 and 14 tooth in my 8ight buggy and really like the bottom end it produces and it still has tons of top end.I`m glad I didn`t go with a JP1 because it probably would of been too much.I know from running the buggy that I`m going to need a little more bottom end with out losing too much top end for truggy
I'm running a dynamite 086. I have all jp's (1/2/3) And definately the JP1 is too much bottom. Even my 8T would break traction with it. I run on a mostly dry/dusty track so I'm pretty traction limited so I'd rather have a softer bottom with strong mid/top power. A blue groove track may rather have the stron bottom punch that a jp1/5 port combo provides. As I've mentioned above, the jp2 doesn't have as much bottom as the 086 and it doesn't have any more top. The jp3 is my least favorite pipe as it makes the 5 port just "OK" It makes it feel "average" if you know what I mean.
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Losi 8ight-T C6BB7T 2045 JR 9000S/T
Mugen MBX5R GO 5 port 086 Hitec 5997TG/JR 9000S
All controlled by 3PK/FASST
Hi Guys still having break in issues with my GO,piston keeps locking at the top after about 20 seconds of turning the fly wheel,it just want start then locks.Very annoying as i carnt unlock it with taking the engine back out of the car! Havent even ran 1 tank yet
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Hi Guys still having break in issues with my GO,piston keeps locking at the top after about 20 seconds of turning the fly wheel,it just want start then locks.Very annoying as i carnt unlock it with taking the engine back out of the car! Havent even ran 1 tank yet
You're supposed to be heating the engine with a heat gun or hair drier to get the engine to 200 degrees before even trying to turn over a new motor.
Get a good heat gun.I heated my 5 port up to 200 and it still didin`t work.I was pushing 250-270 with the heat before mine would start and I wand using a car battery charger to pwer my starter box
Andrew first make sure that you get plenty of heat in to the engine, and if you can keep the heat gun on it while you try to start it that will help. Also its importnant to note that you have to give it time for the heat from the heat gun to work its way into the crankcase not just the head.
Also this is very important, Get a large regular screw driver, so when the engine does stick, you can stick that thru the flywheel hole and pry the engine unstuck. That way you won't have to remove the engine from the car. Remove the glow plug completely and pour a lot of after run oil into the engine, then heat it up and bump it a couple of times. Pour in some more after run oil put the plug back in it and don't tighten it all the way.
About the fins breaking off, The Go engines have the best stock cooling head on the market, its has a large diameter, lots of fins, and still very light. You will notice when your Go engine shuts off that the head will drop almost 100 degrees in a very very short time. This is one reason its very important to place the piston at BDC immediately after the engine shuts off because the temps will drop very fast.
This type of performance comes at a cost and while I have not personally seen the fins break or bend any easier then any other engine mfgr. I can understand how you could be upset if 8 people at your track had the problem. But in reality if that many people bent or broke cooling heads at your tack than there is something in the track causing it.
all i can say is that i have had some of the most spectactular crashes ever. and sometimes numbering very high in just a six minute heat race. to this point i have not bent or broken a cooling fin yet. my motor is in a buggy and always has been so it is exposed to ever crash.
also a lot of tracks in countires outside the U.S. use concrete and wood and even railroad ties for obstacles in their tracks. these items have little to no give in them for a cooling fin to withstand. something else to consider.
well it's not that hard to break off fins on the Go tech cooling head as they have lightened them a fair bit. I don't know wheather they have upgraded them since I brought mine as I've have mine for quite a while (it's done about 9-10 gallons and is still on it's original internals).
Thats sweet! What country? What is your name? Are you sponsored?
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