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Old 07-04-2009, 05:33 AM   #7636
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what are you running buggy or truggy ? the 3 ports are awsome buggy motor im very happy with mine

i got spare motors to i have a 7 port as my back up or if some one wants to have a shot i just lend them them the motor
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:04 AM   #7637
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what are you running buggy or truggy ? the 3 ports are awsome buggy motor im very happy with mine

i got spare motors to i have a 7 port as my back up or if some one wants to have a shot i just lend them them the motor
D8 buggy
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Old 07-04-2009, 06:22 AM   #7638
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if your going to get another motor the 3 and 7 ports are great in the buggy
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Old 07-04-2009, 11:55 AM   #7639
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He was running the OS p3 plug. I bought some of the O Donnell 77T and 97T plugs to try out. I might just swap one in from the get-go.



I honestly wouldn't know if he had it upside down on the throttle or not. It's not a scrape or gouge but a mark from one of the detonations. However, it may be from having a rich setting (which he said he ran it rich) and the plug element dropped in there. Either way, it wasn't anything more than a surface difference. Should I be worried?
Anyone?
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Old 07-04-2009, 03:48 PM   #7640
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I got almost a gallon on my 5 port so the rod and pin replacement is due in a race or two. I got the rod and clips but pin is backordered. hope its here by the time i need it. Also. is the EB mods GO worth the extra cash? i am looking at a second mill. I will eather get the 3 port race and break it in and keep as backup or get the EB mods and make my 5 port a back up. I live 1.5 hrs from the track and it sucks to blow a engine in first heat. Its happened to me once.
Don't sweat it on the rod change Tony. Rod and pin change at around 2 gal is the norm, so you have some laps up your sleeve. Change it earlier once the hard pinch has gone by all means if you want though
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Old 07-04-2009, 03:55 PM   #7641
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Anyone?
Put it back together and run it. You would need to replace the p/r/s to fix the scrape problem anyway, so just run it and see how it goes. It may be fine for quite a few gallons. If not then just fit a new p/r/s kit, which is not a huge expense with these motors.
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Old 07-04-2009, 04:07 PM   #7642
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Put it back together and run it. You would need to replace the p/r/s to fix the scrape problem anyway, so just run it and see how it goes. It may be fine for quite a few gallons. If not then just fit a new p/r/s kit, which is not a huge expense with these motors.
the pleasures of these engines the parts for these are always very well priced
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Old 07-04-2009, 07:12 PM   #7643
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what size is the front bearing on a go 21?
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Old 07-04-2009, 08:41 PM   #7644
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7X19 same as pretty much every motor.

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Old 07-04-2009, 09:10 PM   #7645
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Whats the best pipe for go 3 port turbo plug engine? I've been using ttr efra 2039 it seems pretty decent but I think its not bringing the full potential out of this engine.
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Old 07-04-2009, 10:00 PM   #7646
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Whats the best pipe for go 3 port turbo plug engine? I've been using ttr efra 2039 it seems pretty decent but I think its not bringing the full potential out of this engine.
The new GO 2072
GO 0801
Dynamite 086

in that order.
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Old 07-04-2009, 10:13 PM   #7647
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Hey thanx for the quick response... Btw who sells the 2072? I just did a quick search on amain and tower and ebay no one has it.
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Old 07-04-2009, 10:26 PM   #7648
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the only one who seems to have it right now is MassiveMods in Australia.
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:10 AM   #7649
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the 2072 pipe is awsome on the 3 port i have this in my buggy
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:32 AM   #7650
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Well racing went fabulous today.....until in the semi final I first cracked the weld at the front of the stinger on my new 2072 pipe and almost ripped it right off..Bugger..repairable though but 3 laps later the 7 port died and after a few attempts to restart I slammed the 3 port in and finished the race in 8th..BOO!..Post race inspection of the 7 port revealed a crack in the underside of the crankcase..Oh shit..strip down this evening shows it pushed the rear bearing through the case..ruined the case,crankpin,probably the rod etc and definitely the piston and sleeve (but they were on their last legs anyway)SO! big question is do I rebuild it with the new MM5 p/r/s I have which means new crankcase gen5.5 crank and might as well get MM to fit ceramics as well cause I bet the bearings are shot as the crank was presumably spinning at an angle for a while b4 it died!probably at least aus$160 or do I flog the unused p/r/s kit to someone on here and buy a new MG66..

.MM5 7 port p/r/s unused and ready to run in anyone
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