wrap some foil around the head. I ran 30% sidewinder worlds, it makes it run cooler. thats on my 5 port on the 7's I use 20% sidewinder. the temps are a little hotter with the 20%
during break in, wouldnt I want it cooler, I mean, I know below 200 is not cool, so to speak, what am I looking for? 220-240 ish. I know, dont tune by temps, just thinking of a "ideal" range to try to keep it in around now. Outside temps this week should be mid-upper 70's. Humidity 50-70%.
during break in, wouldnt I want it cooler, I mean, I know below 200 is not cool, so to speak, what am I looking for? 220-240 ish. I know, dont tune by temps, just thinking of a "ideal" range to try to keep it in around now. Outside temps this week should be mid-upper 70's. Humidity 50-70%.
mine are hiding around 240-250ish mark. some go a little higher. what ever you do, do not go below 190. I do believe that was advice from mark at mmods. also I did the idle 1 tank with mmods run in oil and then 2nd tank heated engine,fired up dropped on ground started the ole 1/4 throttle run around. I am on my 8th tank doing the 1/2 throttle method,and every tank I added mmods run in oil. thats how tight this engine is. the non turbo is on 18th tank little under half gallon still taken it easy. from what i have read on this thread temps are not the way to tune these engines. good smoke trail from no throttle to full is what your after. but keeping up the temp is also important.
Last edited by bigmatt; 05-18-2009 at 07:46 PM.
Reason: make to read
Thanks man, appreciate all the help.I think since I actually measured the "flush" point and knowing that these carbs need what I call unusually small increments of change, it will be all good. Of course when that Nova motor gets here, I'm sure I'll wanna get after that too,LOL too busy breaking in stuff to race. Dang it!
Gonna go to the lake for the holiday anyways.
during break in, wouldnt I want it cooler, I mean, I know below 200 is not cool, so to speak, what am I looking for? 220-240 ish. I know, dont tune by temps, just thinking of a "ideal" range to try to keep it in around now. Outside temps this week should be mid-upper 70's. Humidity 50-70%.
You want to keep the motor in the normal operating temperature range - but running very rich during the first 12 or so tanks of the break in. In order to keep the temps up while running this rich you need to foil the cooling head.
By runnig the motor at these temps during break in, you are bedding the piston and sleeve in at the temps they will be operatng at during itīs racing life. This makes for a much longer lasting and better performing motor.
Running the motor too cool when it is so tight makes for mega wear on the components. Remember how much easier it was to turn the motor over after you had heated it with the heat gun, as opposed to when it was stone cold.
Keep the temps in the 210 -250 range by adjusting the LSN and adding / removing foil from the head as neccessary. After the 12 tanks remove the foil and run another three tanks just slightly rich, but nice and easy through the full rev range. After these 15 tanks in total, set it to a moderate race tune and give it some. Then just wait until the rest of the metal pinch goes at around 1 - 1.5 gal, remove the break in shim somewhere during this period when you feel the motor is loose enough. Go and kick arse on the track Change the rod, wrist pin and C clips at 2 gal.
The restrictors don't go all the way to the bottom of the carb throat, so in effect they do not alter the idle gap. Set the gap with no restrictor so you can judge the gap better, then fit the restrictor of your choice.
Yap that I also found only yesterday....
I have been asking this question in other forum and 90% together with me answered that must be measured with venturi.
I also discovered for me that venturi does not go all way down.
Thanks a lot Grizz1.
I will be at the Roar Nationals helping anyone with Go engines, I will have parts and will help anyone with tuning or any other issues. Unfortunately I can not pinch sleeves at the track.
Rex
__________________
Rw modding and engine repair
Sleeve resizing
Go engine dealer/ Tko bearings
e-mail 22welch@frontiernet.net
Rex Welch
Thanks for the info, due to current situation a bargain is just what I'm looking for. I'm not concerned about the warrenty but not knowing about New vs Old my concern would be parts. the gen 5 parts are still available? Where can I learn more about the GO, new vs old, avialable product, distributers, etc?
I'm a newb to the GO engine and still learning where to find info let alone absorb the info. Very excited about what I have learned on this forum. Thanks to all for contributing.
BTW, love your country and people! Spent last October there touring around Sydney, Melbourne, Uluru and Lizard Island. AU Rocks!
vhb
All registered dealers will have the new Gen 5.5 engine range, Ebay sellers are not registered dealers and the 5.5 engine is not avail directlly to them. they are not covered by any warranty they also state they are " Factory Modified " which is false, they are a stock engine, Go factory does not modify engines.
The changes i have made for the Gen 5.5 are tolerance related which include the
Crank
Rod
Carb
Easy run in tolerance
The Gen 5.5 components are interchangeable with gen 5 so you can upgrade the engines. But if you take the cost of upgrade into consideration it works out cheaper to just buy from a registered dealer and pay a few extra dollars. EG if you buy from a registered dealer you would be paying about $10 to $15 USD more but that will include the gen 5.5 upgrades. If you were to purchase these components sepperately it would cost you about 80 to 100 USD extra. The gen 5 engines are really tight the new gen 5.5 engines have been made a tiny bit looser to make it easier to run in.
All registered dealers now have the Gen 5.5 in stock. the Gen 5 engines would have sold out before the release of the Gen 5.5 upgrade.
Registered dealers are stated on the Go Engine web site .
Anyone know of a store that has the restrictors in stock? I want to get the 7 and 6.5 especially, but no one seems to have them. Or maybe another brand that fits right? Looking to maximize mileage when it gets broke in. Gonna leave the one that came with the 5 port for now, which I believe is an 8mm. I looked at Amain and theyre out, but have some Innovative tech restrictors at the same price for one as Go gets for the set! Dont need them THAT bad!!
Yes, very helpful thank you. Just how do you tell the difference of the 5 and 5.5 from the outside?
tks
Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveMods
All registered dealers will have the new Gen 5.5 engine range, Ebay sellers are not registered dealers and the 5.5 engine is not avail directlly to them. they are not covered by any warranty they also state they are " Factory Modified " which is false, they are a stock engine, Go factory does not modify engines.
The changes i have made for the Gen 5.5 are tolerance related which include the
Crank
Rod
Carb
Easy run in tolerance
The Gen 5.5 components are interchangeable with gen 5 so you can upgrade the engines. But if you take the cost of upgrade into consideration it works out cheaper to just buy from a registered dealer and pay a few extra dollars. EG if you buy from a registered dealer you would be paying about $10 to $15 USD more but that will include the gen 5.5 upgrades. If you were to purchase these components sepperately it would cost you about 80 to 100 USD extra. The gen 5 engines are really tight the new gen 5.5 engines have been made a tiny bit looser to make it easier to run in.
All registered dealers now have the Gen 5.5 in stock. the Gen 5 engines would have sold out before the release of the Gen 5.5 upgrade.
Registered dealers are stated on the Go Engine web site .
Ran my 21 7pt turbo last sat. and of course it ran great. No problems with temps tune or anything. It actually surprised me that I did not need to touch a needle with the weather being inconsistent all throughout the day.
Change the rod, wrist pin and C clips at 2 gal.
that I also found only yesterday....
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