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Old 07-30-2007, 05:34 PM   #1
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Default rc10 gt loose

My GT slides sideways if you are too quick on the throttle. The rear always slides to the right turning the front left. I have tried less preload on the left side and switching the shocks. I am not having any luck. Any ideas? I know there are still alot of these trucks being run. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 07-30-2007, 05:58 PM   #2
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What condition and what kind of rear tires are you using? This should be where you start first. Second, an MIP 4-1 clutch is adjustable for slower engagement for the GT. Third, move into suspension set-up (camber, Toe, spring and shock oil) This is the most time consuming but worth it. There is a lot to learn when you deal with 2wd stadiums. The Gt is more than capable of running with any of the newer S/T even the GT2. Adjust your slipper and if you dont have the MIP go buy one, run the slow engagement set-up and post your findings. There will always be suggestions and plenty of opinions.
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Old 07-30-2007, 07:07 PM   #3
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Are you bashing with the truck or are you going to try racing it?
I ran one for years and loved the truck. MIP 4in1 clutch is the best hopup for the thing. I ran mine in the leading position which is opposite way you would normally run a clutch because it helps with the problem you mention. The preload on the springs has to be the same on the shocks. You run both fronts the same, and both rears the same. Unless you are running oval.
Loosen the slipper a bit, bigger clutchbell, or smaller spur, move the rear hubs forward, there are many things you can do to help. Main thing that helps is not to pull the trigger to fast when you come out of a turn. Don't gas it until your wheels are all pointing straight.
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Old 07-30-2007, 07:37 PM   #4
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Default tires

This is happening under racing conditions. I have the issue with both bowties and lugnuts. I will have to try the 4 n 1 clutch. I have an MIP clutch but I don't think it's the 4 n 1. What sort of camber is a good starting point? I have been running 30 wt oil green springs in the rear and 40 silver springs in the front.
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Old 07-30-2007, 07:43 PM   #5
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Can ya describe the track at all? By the tire choice it sounds like a loose or loamy track. Wouldn't think you'd have to much spinning out trouble if that's the case unless your finger is to heavy..

I personally never liked either of those tires on any track I've ever been at. Is that what everybody else is running also?

Don't be afraid to try some black springs in the rear. I ran blacks alot on the old gt. Also you should find out if the rear a-arm blocks you have are the
3* toe in ones with 2* antisquat. The antisquat helped my truck alot. If you don't know what ones they are it would be worth picking up a set of the rpm 3+2's if you can find them. I usually ran -1 1/2 to -2* camber on all tires. Really something you play with at the track to see what feels good. The more rutted, the more
-camber you use, to a point.

This picture here made the biggest difference in my old gt's handling. You drill a rear inner camber mount hole in the upper location, and space it the same as the other holes, but over towards the tranny. I used a flat piece of aluminum to give it a flat area to seat on. That helped the truck alot. You drill right through the bulkhead and then use a traxxas captured end and a long bolt with a nut on it to hold the link on. The stock turnbuckles worked but were a hair short for my liking with this mod. So I got some jato turnbuckles which fit perfect and are nearly as beefy as an 1/8 scale turnbuckle. Those are the stock ones in the pic.

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Old 07-30-2007, 07:54 PM   #6
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Talking camber mod

I just did the camber mod just haven't had a chance to try it out yet. What tires do you recomend? these are the only 2 that I know of anyone running at our track, both electric or gas truck. May have to try to loosen up the slipper and be alittle easier on the trigger
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Old 07-30-2007, 07:59 PM   #7
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I like the ifmar stud and panther stud tires alot. I've been running the panther tire all year so far and it is an outstanding tire for wear and has hooked up everywhere from a hard track to a loam track. It's a great all around tire.

I'll pm ya the setup I used to run everywhere on my old gt. Have you done the T4 widening mods too?
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:07 PM   #8
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Default t4 mod

I saw some referals to this mod but I wasn't able to see what it is. I also just put RPM rear arms on it and I noticed that this upgrade doesn't allow me to change the wheelbase. I have the 3 degree rear blocks are they automatically 2 degrees anti squat?
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheetmetal2 View Post
I saw some referals to this mod but I wasn't able to see what it is. I also just put RPM rear arms on it and I noticed that this upgrade doesn't allow me to change the wheelbase. I have the 3 degree rear blocks are they automatically 2 degrees anti squat?
If the truck is somewhat new the blocks should have the antisquat. To tell for sure you could take one off and put a hinge pin in the front of the hole about an 1/8" in. If it angles upwards going towards the front then it does. If the pin sits flat then it has zero antisquat.

The T4 mods.. The rear is easy, just get a T4 rear stub axle for the cvd, and the conical washer and it'll bolt right in your current cvd's if you have cvd's. The front.. Actually ae has a longer front axle you can buy that widens the front with no other additions.
Or you can buy the T4 castor block, T4 steering block, T4 inline axle, and the vertical hinge pin that connects the steering block and castor block from the T4. The bottom hole of the castor block will need to be drilled out with an 1/8" drill bit to fit the gt hinge pin. Easy enough to do. But the longer axle is the easiest way to go. If you go the hard way you could also buy gt2 castor blocks, steering blocks rather than the T4 ones. They are a bit beefier and the castor block has an added camber hold location.
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:17 PM   #10
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Default Front end

I do have the Lunsford axles if that is the same thing?
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Old 07-31-2007, 06:37 AM   #11
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Didn't know lundsford made axles. I'm not sure if they are the same or not.
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Old 07-31-2007, 08:50 AM   #12
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Lundsford makes extended titanium front axles. 40 wt in the front may seem like to much and maybe its not allowing the weight to be transfered to the rear and not giving you traction. Go on the AE website and look at the old set-up sheets from the factory drivers, they still have them for the GT1 and start there.
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:38 PM   #13
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Default lunsford axles

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...e=TRUC-ARC10GT

Here are the axles that I used on the truck.
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Old 07-31-2007, 08:08 PM   #14
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Make sure your diff is tight. If it is slipping it will cause this kind of looseness.
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Old 08-01-2007, 05:02 PM   #15
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Rear arm mount should have this printed on them >>R [right side] or L [left side] 3 + 2 (think these are AE not RPM parts, correct me if I'm wrong guy's)

RPM rear shock mount with another link hole 1/4 inch towards center per side (Tebo setup)

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/assoc/rear.htm

IF you have a RTR get the 7367 rear hub's.

The T4 widening/mods HELPS a lot.

I race on a short tight track at times and put T4 20 degree hubs on the front!

For all things GT try here;

http://www.baysidehobby.com/forum/
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