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Old 08-04-2007, 09:48 PM   #61
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Yup air8 is right, "got smoke" your good...
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Old 10-08-2007, 03:52 PM   #62
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Didnt want to make a new thread so ill post it here...

Im going to purchase the 6ight RTR i plan on racing and i dont want to spend 1300 all at once for a nice race rig...I have raced in 2 years and when i did i raced a savage(modded heavly, ad1 mf1 and ofna 9.5) so my question is what else to buy when i buy my 8t? So far i got these..

1 x LOSB0083 8ight RTR
1 x LOSA6047 5mm Rod end
1 x LOSA6271 5-40 x 1/2" Flat Head screws
1 x DYN2508 MC59 Glow plugs
1 x LOSA6264 8-32 x 3/8 Flat Head screws
1 x LOSA6046 4mm Rod End
1 x LOSA6502 Hinge Pin Studs
1 x LOSA1723 Rear A-Arms
1 x LOSA1702 Front A-Arms
1 x ACE8127 Ace high tq, spd

If i order from b main ill get the AIR94358Z servo...

Anything I can condersider buying? maybe a jp-1 pipe(buy i have my savage low-end pipe w/ alittle modding it will fit )
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Old 10-08-2007, 04:18 PM   #63
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I'd stay away from the JP-1 pipe with the Mach engine. Waaaay too much torque/wheelspin. Jp-2/3/4 will be much better.

I'd also suggest lining the bottom of the battery box with a piece of lexan. Some people have had that screw in the bottom screw up their RX packs.

If you really want to bullet proof the car: do the outer steering tie rod modification and capture the ends with another set of 6.6 mm balls, 5-40X1/2" screws, 5-40 washer. If you do this I'd suggest an aluminum front inner hinge pin cover-inplace of the plastic. When I did this mod the plastic inner cover started breaking more frequently. The force has to go somewhere I guess. LOL.

I also recommend an aluminum steering servo arm.
As for the A-arms, it's nice to have spares but I bet you never take them out of the package. Never heard of anyone breaking an arm on the 8 or 8T.

For convenience sake: try a quick change engine mount. It makes clutch maintinance a breeze. But if you do this the roto-start back plate will need to be dremeled significantly. I had to dremel mine till the bottom screw threads were showing. I used it this way for about 5 gallons till I got a starter box.
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Old 10-08-2007, 04:50 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air8 View Post
I'd stay away from the JP-1 pipe with the Mach engine. Waaaay too much torque/wheelspin. Jp-2/3/4 will be much better.

I'd also suggest lining the bottom of the battery box with a piece of lexan. Some people have had that screw in the bottom screw up their RX packs.

If you really want to bullet proof the car: do the outer steering tie rod modification and capture the ends with another set of 6.6 mm balls, 5-40X1/2" screws, 5-40 washer. If you do this I'd suggest an aluminum front inner hinge pin cover-inplace of the plastic. When I did this mod the plastic inner cover started breaking more frequently. The force has to go somewhere I guess. LOL.

I also recommend an aluminum steering servo arm.
As for the A-arms, it's nice to have spares but I bet you never take them out of the package. Never heard of anyone breaking an arm on the 8 or 8T.

For convenience sake: try a quick change engine mount. It makes clutch maintinance a breeze. But if you do this the roto-start back plate will need to be dremeled significantly. I had to dremel mine till the bottom screw threads were showing. I used it this way for about 5 gallons till I got a starter box.
how is the jp-3 pipe?

servo arm ike this? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4974

and will do the steering mod
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:12 PM   #65
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I feel the JP-3 worked awesome on my RTR. Power was more controllable and run time was more than I expected for a .26. Averaging around 8.5 to 9 minutes.

If the Airtronics servo you plan to buy will be the steering servo that arm will be good. You will have to trim the splash guard slightly cause the arm will barely contact it. Or you could grind off the extra hole on the servo arm cause you will only use the 3rd hole out from center to keep the steering geometry correct. I use the blue one just like the one in the link. But the losi arms weren't out yet when I needed one.

Oh I forgot. The upper servo saver piece will wear some over time and create some centering problems. So the aluminum upper servo saver piece is great when that time comes.
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:26 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air8 View Post
I feel the JP-3 worked awesome on my RTR. Power was more controllable and run time was more than I expected for a .26. Averaging around 8.5 to 9 minutes.

If the Airtronics servo you plan to buy will be the steering servo that arm will be good. You will have to trim the splash guard slightly cause the arm will barely contact it. Or you could grind off the extra hole on the servo arm cause you will only use the 3rd hole out from center to keep the steering geometry correct. I use the blue one just like the one in the link. But the losi arms weren't out yet when I needed one.

Oh I forgot. The upper servo saver piece will wear some over time and create some centering problems. So the aluminum upper servo saver piece is great when that time comes.

what all have you done to your RTR? and any pics of it?
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:37 PM   #67
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Yeah, I have pics but I don't know how to put them on here. I've tried but I only get "error" from the site. IDK. My RTR is no longer RTR. It is a full kit now. EXPENSIVE over the long haul. Shock caps, shock tower, lower seal retainers, shock shafts, hinge pins, rear chassis brace, chassis, wheel hexes and wheel nuts, engine, engine mount, servos, body, battery. All the drivetrain is still stock: driveshafts, spur, diff gears, arms, hub carriers, steering spindles, diff cases(did have to replace the rear diff case when a bearing went out-have the aluminum bearing carriers now).
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:40 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air8 View Post
Yeah, I have pics but I don't know how to put them on here. I've tried but I only get "error" from the site. IDK. My RTR is no longer RTR. It is a full kit now. EXPENSIVE over the long haul. Shock caps, shock tower, lower seal retainers, shock shafts, hinge pins, rear chassis brace, chassis, wheel hexes and wheel nuts, engine, engine mount, servos, body, battery. All the drivetrain is still stock: driveshafts, spur, diff gears, arms, hub carriers, steering spindles, diff cases(did have to replace the rear diff case when a bearing went out-have the aluminum bearing carriers now).
email them to me at jextel@gmail.com and can you include basic sheetups?(Shock wt, shock springs, diff lubes..etc)
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Old 10-09-2007, 11:28 AM   #69
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Depends what nitro you're running. If you 're running 20% I'd use the Mccoy-8. You could get by on MC-59(actually easier to tune than MC-8 as it tolerates rich tuning better), BUT it's lifespan is pretty crappy. If you're running 30% I'd go with the mcooy-9.
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Old 10-11-2007, 02:41 AM   #70
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On the stock engine (427), does the head need to be shimmed to run 30%? Also, how is the engine with the jp1 pipe?
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Old 10-11-2007, 09:35 AM   #71
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Quote:
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On the stock engine (427), does the head need to be shimmed to run 30%? Also, how is the engine with the jp1 pipe?
I wish I could tell you to shim or not to shim. Here in Central USA I did not use head shims on my Mach when I switched to 30%. I used it for 7 more gallons (11 total) before getting a second engine in a trade. The engine will need to be retuned. I fattened the high speed about 6 hours to be safe and backed out the idle mixture screw a bit, tuned from there.

If you have this engine in the buggy the JP-1 pipe be too much bottom end. The chassis gets overloaded with torque and there is a lot of wheelspin, tires wear very fast, no traction. I would get a jp-2/3/4 instead. The jp-1 is for bottom end and this engine already has a ton of it. The pipes make a difference in the way an engine performs so read about what they are designed for and go from there. This engine is a great budget engine.
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Old 10-11-2007, 11:04 PM   #72
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Hey, thanks for the info. I have the tl 427 with a bump start backplate, it is on my truggy (mugen). I got a good deal on the jp1, so I figured it will at least get me up and running, then I can figure where I need to go from there. I will be racing occasionally, mostly just running wherever lol.

BTW, no offense was meant when I called the losi fragile, just what I heard. I saw one runaway because the failsafe was not set for brake, but went wide open. Hit a curb, then hit a wooden wall (borders the track) about 3 ft. high. Damage to the losi 8t? NONE. I have heard that the steering knuckles are weak and there are some servo issues. That statement was more in relation to the mugen, again, I apologize if it offended anyone. If I didn't get such a smokin deal on my mugen, a losi or jammin would have probably been my next choice.
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Old 10-13-2007, 06:34 AM   #73
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I just order my 8T yestaday so it will be here Mon. and i was wondering what to do to the servos so they wont fry? I know you set the epa properly but what else? I think i read something about a spacer somewhere or something?

And also which fuel? I havent been in the hobby for about 2 years but its better to break in the engine with a higher oil content? like odonnell? but i also heard sidewinder is good?
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Old 10-14-2007, 12:49 PM   #74
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I don't know if the RTR comes with servo spacers. But the roller comes with rectangle shaped plastic spacers that go under the servo mounts to raise the servo up. The servos need to be spaced so they don't ride/rest on the chassis. The pounding from off-road will kill the servos.

I can't say anything good about the Z270 servos. They shouldn't be used in 8th scale racing at all. But that is my opinion. I can tell you this: Plan on that servo crapping out soon. So plan on buying a decent servo that has over 100oz.in of torque.

As for fuels, most of them are very good. More of a preference or availability issue. Twenty percent will be easier to work with if you're starting out and won't push the engines to the limit. I switched to 30% nitro after running 20% for a few gallons. The Mach has tons of torque and you won't need to give it any more power pipes wise.
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Old 10-14-2007, 01:44 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air8 View Post
I don't know if the RTR comes with servo spacers. But the roller comes with rectangle shaped plastic spacers that go under the servo mounts to raise the servo up. The servos need to be spaced so they don't ride/rest on the chassis. The pounding from off-road will kill the servos.

I can't say anything good about the Z270 servos. They shouldn't be used in 8th scale racing at all. But that is my opinion. I can tell you this: Plan on that servo crapping out soon. So plan on buying a decent servo that has over 100oz.in of torque.

As for fuels, most of them are very good. More of a preference or availability issue. Twenty percent will be easier to work with if you're starting out and won't push the engines to the limit. I switched to 30% nitro after running 20% for a few gallons. The Mach has tons of torque and you won't need to give it any more power pipes wise.
hmm..will that spacer thing from the race roller help any?

I alright bought a 95358Z( think that is its 200oz @ .06sec im going to use that for steering than the stock 645 or whatever it is for the throttle..I also read if i actuall read the entire manual on the throttle linkage setup i wont have any problems....

im just going to go with sidewinder..I have never used it before but im read GREAT things about it...
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