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Old 01-24-2008, 11:32 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c0sie View Post
Hi,

Can you explain these 'traits' please?

Many thanks
It really depends on your driving style and the type of track you run on. A spider diff tends to thicken up when you are on power because of the extra gears, therefore giving you more on power steering as compared to a standard diff. This also means that you have the same off power steering of a standard diff. I believe the standard diff is more consistent on the rough tracks and a spider can be beneficial on european style tracks which means less jumps and smoother surface due to the on and off power characteristics. This is only assuming that the spider diff is in front, which is what i do. Im not a fan of the front center and rear spider setup.
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Old 01-25-2008, 02:55 AM   #107
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Hi, thanks for that, thats very helpfull.

Seems a few people are saying that 3 x spiders are not a good idea, but them im from the UK and other than the NEO'08 race that im in for in March there arent many crazy supercross tracks like you lucky guys have

Thanks again
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:33 AM   #108
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sure no problem

If you already have the spider diffs you can try removing 2 of the 6 small gears. Should give you the same performance as a standard diff.
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Old 01-26-2008, 04:31 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genius View Post
It really depends on your driving style and the type of track you run on. A spider diff tends to thicken up when you are on power because of the extra gears, therefore giving you more on power steering as compared to a standard diff. This also means that you have the same off power steering of a standard diff. I believe the standard diff is more consistent on the rough tracks and a spider can be beneficial on european style tracks which means less jumps and smoother surface due to the on and off power characteristics. This is only assuming that the spider diff is in front, which is what i do. Im not a fan of the front center and rear spider setup.
this would explain our over steer issues a couple of us were having on the weekend as we all run 2k in the rear diff and it was sliding everywhere. i have just upgraded to a new 8.5 from a an 8 and it was a suprise to feel the difference in handling but the over steer was unexpected..
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Old 01-26-2008, 06:24 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v1r killer View Post
this would explain our over steer issues a couple of us were having on the weekend as we all run 2k in the rear diff and it was sliding everywhere. i have just upgraded to a new 8.5 from a an 8 and it was a suprise to feel the difference in handling but the over steer was unexpected..
2k in the rear during summer downunder should be fine. If you are keen to try a bit of a different setup give this a go:

HYPER 8.5
Standard Chassis FR2 with the center diff brace

Front Setup

Standard diff
5000w diff fluid
6 deg kick-up
22* caster
White springs
4 x 1.4mm pistons
70W fluid (Ultimate)
3rd hole from inside on tower
Inside hole on arm
Arms slightly above level (26mm clearance)
Droop - shock length 109 extended (bolt centre to centre)
2 deg negative camber
Centre ackerman
1* toe out
Inner camber hole on C hub
Upper hole inside arm
2.3mm sway bar - no pre-load

Middle Setup

Standard diff
5000w diff fluid
Ultimate discs slight rear bias

Rear Setup

1000w diff fluid
2 deg Anti-squat
2.5 Rear Toe
White spings
4 x 1.4mm pistons
60w fluid (Ultimate)
4th hole from inside on tower
Inside hole on arm
Centre inside camber link
Inside top on upright
2 deg negative camber
Arms slightly above level (31mm clearance)
2.7mm sway bar - no pre-load
Droop - shock length 126mm extended (bolt centre to centre)
Shortest wheelbase setting

For slightly more responsive steering try 65w fluid in the front.
For a little more on power rotation lenghten the wheelbase.
If the rear is loose into corners move the rear shocks in 1 hole at the top (you will also lose a little steering on power in the middle of a corner).

This setup works most places I've tried it, or at least it's a good base to work from. Mostly we run on a hard usually dry clay surface. A little bumpy and broken with a mixture of corner types and some fairly big jumps.

One thing you will have to account for is the shock fluid weights.
I use Ultimate brand fluid which is closer to the actual weights than Losi or Associated.

These are Associated weights to CST.
So from the chart 65W(650cst) Ultimate would be the same as 50W Associated.

10WT = 100cst
15WT = 150cst
20WT = 200cst
25WT = 275cst
30WT = 350cst
35WT = 425cst
40WT = 500cst
45WT = 575cst
50WT = 650cst
55WT = 725cst
60WT = 800cst
70WT = 900cst
80WT = 1000cst

Give it a try, I'd like to know what other people think.
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:00 AM   #111
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If someone was running 7-7-3 with standard diffs, would 5-5-1 or 3-3-1 give the same effect when using spiders?

Thanks!
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:50 PM   #112
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And...

When trying to run the inner hole on the C-Hub, how much do you need the turnbuckle wound in??

Seems very excessive...
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Old 01-28-2008, 10:12 PM   #113
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thanks for the set up i will try that to see if it cures any funny feed back that i a getting at the moment. i am running 5, 5, 2 diff and 40 front rear shock oil associated our track is a fast smooth track with big jumps and a little rutted tech section mid track but i will try this and let you know how it goes thanks Unstable.
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Old 01-29-2008, 10:05 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c0sie View Post
And...

When trying to run the inner hole on the C-Hub, how much do you need the turnbuckle wound in??

Seems very excessive...
Yes they do get wound right in, my hex is right up against the flats of the plastic on the arms on both sides. You may need to take the arms apart to ensure everything is wound in evenly. You could also take a little material off the arms to give you a bit more room - probably what I'll do when I re-build the car as I like it much better with the short top arms.
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Old 02-04-2008, 05:11 AM   #115
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Well guys,

Im switching cars, im leaving my Jammin FTE behind and getting a Hyper 8.5 + 16mm Big Bore Shocks for the 2008 season so now im full with Hype (i already have the truggy).

I had the Jammin FTE for 2 years and 2 months and gave me nothing but happiness (renewed it twice) and good results on track. A very good friend got a Hyper 8.5 and i've been testing it a lot and i think it have more of my style than the Jammin on driving it.

Any opinion about the switch ?, any advice on the car as soon as i get it ? (common replacement parts to get ?).

Well, hope to have success on this desition (had couple offers from other brands on sponsoring me for the 2008 season but i decided to go on myself on the 8.5).

I will have the kit on my hands in 8-10 days.

cya !!

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Old 02-04-2008, 05:49 AM   #116
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Use Jammin brake discs and calipers. Other than theat the car is awesome. You'll be super happy with the switch.
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:05 AM   #117
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Any place to download the manuals ?

thanks,
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:30 AM   #118
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http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/parts.php?search=HoBao


Try that
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Old 02-05-2008, 03:06 PM   #119
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How does everyone like this buggy whats a good engine to put in here, 300 max on engine. Looking to start 1/8th off road at wolcott in the summer.
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Old 02-05-2008, 03:20 PM   #120
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Love this car. Very durable. Check out my vids on youtube under this username. I can prove how durable this car is.
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