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Old 07-13-2007, 08:07 AM   #16
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I have a couple questions. I'm a newbie to the nitro rc sport. I use to race RC electric onroad cars about 10 years ago and I just recently purchased a new Losi 8 T Truggy. What does BDC stand for? And when breaking your engine in this way, how much or little throttle do I apply? Please help a newbie out. Thanks guys
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Old 07-13-2007, 08:28 AM   #17
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I have a couple questions. I'm a newbie to the nitro rc sport. I use to race RC electric onroad cars about 10 years ago and I just recently purchased a new Losi 8 T Truggy. What does BDC stand for? And when breaking your engine in this way, how much or little throttle do I apply? Please help a newbie out. Thanks guys
BDC= bottom dead center- The is when the engine is cooling during break-in you rotate the flywheel until you feel that the piston is as far toward the bottom that it can go. Half way mark of loose turning area of the flywheel is normally bdc. During break-in you do not want the sleeve to cool and wrap arould the pistion. When you rotate the piston to bdc you prevent this from happening.

If you are going to place the car on the ground to break it in. I like to use between 1/8 and 1/2 throttle, while constantly alternating the position, blipping it.
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Old 07-13-2007, 11:57 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by r6ryder View Post
I have a couple questions. I'm a newbie to the nitro rc sport. I use to race RC electric onroad cars about 10 years ago and I just recently purchased a new Losi 8 T Truggy. What does BDC stand for? And when breaking your engine in this way, how much or little throttle do I apply? Please help a newbie out. Thanks guys
To what Rushdude was saying. The idea is you are trying to heat cycle the parts in the engine with out causing any stress to any of these parts. If during break-in you hit full throttle you are causing additional stress to the parts (mainly the connecting rod.)

So get the engine to about 170 to 200+ f running rich with the less amount of stress as possible for the first 3 to 5 starts of the engines life, again make sure to be BDC when cooling down. I do this by taking off the glow plug and looking down the hole then move the flywheel to see the piston at the bottom, then mark that position on the flywheel so you know what BDC is on your engine.

Hope this gives you a better idea.
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Old 07-13-2007, 02:46 PM   #19
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thanks for the response.. its people like you guys and forums like this that make this hobby fun.. thanks again
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Old 07-13-2007, 04:09 PM   #20
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thanks for the response.. its people like you guys and forums like this that make this hobby fun.. thanks again
No problem, glad to help.
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Old 07-13-2007, 09:58 PM   #21
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I do heat cycle my motors. I also use a modified Traxxas style of break in. The best break in method that I recall is from Fantom. One tank fat then the rest at race tune! My old Fantom motors still run great! I just wish all motors cold be broken in that way!
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Old 07-14-2007, 01:09 PM   #22
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I do heat cycle my motors. I also use a modified Traxxas style of break in. The best break in method that I recall is from Fantom. One tank fat then the rest at race tune! My old Fantom motors still run great! I just wish all motors cold be broken in that way!
I wish that fantom kept up on their engine line-up.
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Old 07-14-2007, 01:14 PM   #23
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Please give credit to the website that you got this from http://www.johnnycoolguy.com/JCGR/ma..._break-in.html

With that said, I have recently have broken in my crt (force .28) this way. I am very happy with the results. I have to say I did let it run two idle tanks before i started this process.

Just make sure you use good clean fuel, and when you are in the cool downs, make sure your piston is BDC.
nooo....

why dont you guys give credit to the individual who actually posted such info on the grid many moons ago lol

Stephen Bess posted such info a while back on the grid, i break my engines the same exact way with my own tid bits here and there and all of my engines run great with good compression.

the WOT method works great as well if done correctly JMHO

The ONLY engine i have had problems with was my radical 621T, which had nothing to do with break in, i just think its poor craftsmanship on their conrods at the time, now i think they make beefier conrods from what it seems, but basically at the 3 gallon mark, my conrod exploded, ruining my whole entire engine.

but so far my Vspec, Novarossi 21-5, Novarossi P5 (10 gallons) and the rest of my engines have been running fantastic, with zero complications, my 21-5 is on its 4th gallon and runs perfect! i have no doubt it will last just as long as my P5.
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Old 07-15-2007, 07:46 AM   #24
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I use the heat cycle method. I don't know the origin of the method but I know it works. Foil the head to keep the temp in the 190-210 range with a rich setting. Heat gun at every start up until the pinch begins to fade (around 6 or 7 tanks). I idle one tank usually, the rest in the street or on the track. I run 8th scale on-road and I have motors that I've lost track of how many gallons I have thru them.
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