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Old 06-17-2007, 06:04 PM   #1
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Default latest tricks for losi diff

what is the latest way to build the ad2 diff. i have melted diff after diff. please help!!! i have seen a spring used in the rtr version. is this a better way that the concave washers in the kit? please help. i need a diff that wont slip/melt and is smooth.....i used to run a gt and never had any diff problems
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:41 PM   #2
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I have been running the same gear, balls, and rings for over a year now with no problems.

After you rebuild the diff, you need to start your truck hold a wheel, so only one turns, and apply 1/4 throttle for a few seconds, and alternate between wheels.

Do this about 4-5 times, then tighten your diff.

Make sure you are putting it in the right way too, because of the compound idler gear, it goes in backwards compared to electric trucks.
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:02 AM   #3
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The spring gives you more room for error, but the washers work better and are more consistent.

If your diff is slipping, it's likely either that A) you're using too much diff lube, or B) you're not re-tightening the diff after it breaks in.

Build the diff with all stock parts (you can use AE black grease on the thrust, but it's not absolutely necessary) and as the instruction manual states. Use only enough diff lube to coat the diff balls once popped into the pockets in the gear. As you tighten the diff (1/4-1/2 at a time once the diff holds itself together) work the diff back and forth with your hands in between each turn with the screwdriver.

Tighten until the diff doesn't slip. Use an allen wrench in the slots of each outdrive to hold them still, and try to turn the diff gear. It shouldn't budge! If it does, the diff is slipping.

Put the assembled diff in your truck and start the engine. Leave the truck sitting on the starter box and apply enough throttle to get the tires turning. Hold one tire for 10-15 seconds (which will cause the truck to diff out to the other tire), and then the other tire, switching back and forth 4-5 times. Shut the truck off and tighten your slipper completely. Hold the right rear tire and the spur gear with your right hand and try to turn the left rear tire. It's probably going to turn (this means the diff broke in and loosened up). Tighten the diff in small increments until you can no longer turn the left rear tire using this test. Back the slipper off (usually about five full turns) until you can turn the left rear tire with some effort. You should see the slipper assembly (nut, spring, etc.) turn as you rotate the left rear tire. This guarantees that the slipper will break loose before the diff does, which will stop your diff from melting.

Check the diff every five minutes or so for the first few tanks (in other words, don't go run a half hour on a brand new diff without checking it so it doesn't slip). After that, make it a habit to check that the slipper is slipping before the diff every time you go to run your truck. It takes 10 seconds and will save you from melting diffs.
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Old 06-18-2007, 06:22 AM   #4
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how long did it take you to type all that Aaron? LOL
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:26 AM   #5
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Aaron nailed it perfectly. The only thing I do different is I have taken an old driveshaft and cut it in half. I chuck it into a dremel and break in the diff that way. Then I don't have to start the truck to run it in. I also run it in starting as soon as it engages. The worst thing to do it to simply put it together and crank it down until its stops slipping. Once it engages, either use the dremel for a few seconds, or spin it in your hand for a minute. Then keep tightening it in SMALL increments (1/8 turn max) and using the dremel in between each adjustment. I do this and they come out very nicely and seem that I can run a looser setting without getting any slippage. Yesterday I used this process before the A Main and ran 30 minutes without ever starting the truck and the diff is still silky.

On a side note, I always use a lot of Losi white lube to seal the edges of the tranny case and also pack a lot of it into the thrust bearing. It seals it from getting fine dust particles inside and makes everything last longer.

Lastly, while building the diff, like Aaron said use the washers. Also when putting together the thrust bearing, flip the washers so the caged balls are running on the smooth side, not the in groove. I have had a lot of washers break into little peices like that and it's not a fun way to loose a main. I actually prefer using the standard XXX thrust bearing that has the free balls. It's more time consuming to build but it's less that can go wrong.
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:35 PM   #6
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o.s. power - Not long. I type pretty fast, and that's a subject I've posted on quite a few times, haha.
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:03 AM   #7
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I figured you might have it saved so you could just do the "copy and paste" when needed!
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Old 06-19-2007, 11:04 AM   #8
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Haha, nah. I think it's fun to compare how many different ways I can say the same thing!

I've posted something like that on R/C Tech a few times over the years.
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