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Old 06-17-2007, 11:07 AM   #16
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Go Tech 7 port on a 2013 for me.

Oh never mind just noticed the <400, you wont want the Go Tech at 209.00. You want to over pay for performance
I've got to agree. I race a guy with a $450 JP v-spec and he is never more than a car length ahead of me at the end of the straight-and I run the Go-Tech 5 port. I still take him in the corners and win.

Also, a guy who runs those Werks Motors said to me, "I like the Werks. Their good engines after you learn how to adjust the carb." That's a big red flag to me! I don't need an engine with a tricky carb.
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Old 06-17-2007, 11:09 AM   #17
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Magbarn, the Go Tech you had was a sport motor and not the Pro racing version. Besides, any motor should be torn apart and gone over IMO before firing it up.
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Old 06-17-2007, 02:52 PM   #18
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Magbarn, the Go Tech you had was a sport motor and not the Pro racing version. Besides, any motor should be torn apart and gone over IMO before firing it up.
Funny things is the $170 "el-cheapo" Nova Rossi has much better build quality. I'm willing to stand by a company more who's willing to keep good quality control even down to their cheapest model. Also I did tear the engine apart, it was the cheap metal used on rear back plate that decided to come off while running. I rinsed out my motor with Nitro spray and ARO before even firing her up the first time. I'm not completely anti-asian motor though. If LRP makes a .21 race spec motor I'll be first in line to try it out. My Taiwanese LRP Z28r makes some serious power. I'm just too scared right now to spring $200 motor that I might have to spend another $100 for the rossi carb.
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Old 06-17-2007, 04:14 PM   #19
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When I got the 7 port Go, I tore it down. I didnt have any shavings at all in the motor, didnt have any worms in the HSN or LSN either. I seal my engines before I ever start them so I can not comment on leaks. I know that mine doesnt have any airleaks after being sealed.

There is a 100+ page thread on Sgrid about the Go Tech engine line. Of all the praises there are only 2 people who had any type of problem. Both where a leaky pinch bolt. 1 was sent back to Russel at racefactory who repaired the carb tuned it then sent it back. The other one was sealed and was fine.

One of the nice things with the Go Techs, is Russel the US distributer does a QC check on all the engines he gets in. And if for any reason the engine doesnt perform you can send it to him and he will get it fixed. Hes also active on the sgrid site helping with tuning issues people have. Tuneing issues not due to a problematic carb just people needing help.

Another nice feature is the contigency program, if you fly his sticker on your car. Go to a race with 50 or more entries and make the A-Main he will send you an engine for free. If you win the B-Main you get 50% off your next purchace.

Did I mention parts to rebuild the motor are cheap? Conrod for 20.00 Piston and sleeve for 60.00 Case for 30.00 crank for 60.00. Carb slide for 7.00 whole carb for 30.00.

They also run well on cheap pipes, o83 for the 5 port and the o53 on the 7 port. Or you can get abit more power with the werks 2013 plus the nice raspy tune it has.

Im glad I took the plunge and tried one, I cant see my self buying any other motor ever again.

BTW for the 199.99 for the 5 port or 209.99 for the 7 port you get 2 plugs that are actually quality plugs. Thats a 12.00 gift for buying thier motors. Unless you get the Turbo versions, they dont come with plugs.

Just so you know, money isnt an issue for me when buying gear. So cost wasnt really an issue, there were to many praises about these engines and I had to try them. Glad I did.
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Old 06-17-2007, 05:15 PM   #20
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Also, a guy who runs those Werks Motors said to me, "I like the Werks. Their good engines after you learn how to adjust the carb." That's a big red flag to me! I don't need an engine with a tricky carb.
that was the old TL21 with the 3 needle carb, the new TL.21PRO is alot easier to tune with the mid fixed and only 2 needles....Im running the new .21PRO and it tuned up in a snap, easy and fast...
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Old 06-17-2007, 05:20 PM   #21
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Does the Gotech 7 port have a reliable carb? Will it have shavings in the motor which will later destroy the crankcase? My first and ONLY experience with go-tech has been with my Cen Truggy stock motor which is a Go-tech 3 port .28 The HSN was leaking from the start along with bits from the backplate pull starter which worked their way into the crankcase shredding the conrod and the crankshaft. If you can garantee that won't happen I might consider a gotech engine again.
as far as Go Tech i have only heard GOOD things....im guessing you got a fluke engine....
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Old 06-17-2007, 05:35 PM   #22
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hmm... These are very good points. If this Russ fellow is doing good QC on these Go engines I might have to give them another shot. I've read the extensive thread here/ rcuniverse/ and OFNA and the praises keep on coming. I could also buy 2 of these guys for the price of one italian/french motor. How do these run with the JP1/3?
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Old 06-17-2007, 05:43 PM   #23
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Ya know, I have no vested interest in your buying a Go-Tech or not so I'm just gonna tell you how it is. These are simply the best value on the market. I just tore mine down, after almost 4 gallons, cuz I thought it might be wise to replace the rod. It doesn't need it. All of my Novarossi's did.
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Old 06-17-2007, 05:43 PM   #24
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most guys i have spoke to about the go tech engines have been running the JP-3 or 086 pipes and say they run really well with them....go tech does not offer a engine/pipe matching gimmick to suck more money out of you!!!!!!!
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Old 06-18-2007, 12:56 AM   #25
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go tech does not offer a engine/pipe matching gimmick to suck more money out of you!!!!!!!
Im just sick of this hype that the best pipes are the JP range s%#t if they are so good why dont they make engine's as well
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Old 06-18-2007, 04:22 AM   #26
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Its not hype, the JP range of pipes are usually close in producing results as the more expensive pipes. They may not always be the best for a given engine, but for most people its close enough.

Not only that they are alot stronger if you get the hard anodized then most of the expensive pipes. The 2013 is made of Coke can aluminum, its easily dented and the stinger can get beat pretty bad.

I think Jason was actually saying the Go tech engine is not as pipe dependent as most mills are. This was shown via the dyno graph that was realeased by Eb Mods.

Jammin does have an engine line, and they are decent for the price. I think they are Picco based much like the Drake line.
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Old 06-18-2007, 09:37 AM   #27
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jammin motors, they have a .12 and a .28 to go along with this .21. I've heard good things about these motors, but I'm still not a fan of picco motors
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Old 06-18-2007, 12:53 PM   #28
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I have seen the RB C6 in action and every time I see it I am still in awe... But its an expensive engine, and with the recommended pipe in a combo, its well over the "<$400" price cap.

I have also seen the OS VG in action, and for a mere $150, you can get quite an amazing motor, in fact you can even buy a jammin JP-3 pipe and still come under the $400 limit. Thats a killer combo! Ut wins races around here! Even when placed against RB's, V-Specs, JP's, and Nova's!!!

Its basically a hotter version of the RG right around the same price as well...

Good luck with chosing!
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Old 06-19-2007, 03:08 AM   #29
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had a 21+7BT and gave me nothing but head aces JP FX21B-8T dose it for me the best engine Ive had to run in and almost uncatchable
well mines fine with 20litres in it you basically went back to a modified nova p5x and your rite bloody srceams mate
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Old 06-19-2007, 03:51 AM   #30
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well mines fine with 20litres in it you basically went back to a modified nova p5x and your rite bloody srceams mate
Yeah i got 15 liters out of mine then i retired her.
The JP is so easy to tune its a joke i ran both with the MSR1005 pipe to me they both seem very close at my track more of a fast flowing than tight so manly use mid to top couldn't really tell which is better on the bottom.
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