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Old 07-12-2007, 04:48 PM   #61
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Default Hyper 7 PBS Steering Problems.

I finshed rebuild my Hyper 7 and i'm having steering problems on the street. I have put on some street tires and did some laps in a parking lot. The turning radius was very bad.

I'm at factory settings, should I toe in or out more. I have those thread steering rods. Is there an upgrade? For adjusting toe in or out, what is the easiest way to do this?

Also I have a problem when I turn left, the left a-arms move up, even with shocks on. I can not see what the problem is, when I turn right the right a-arm do not move up. The stop screws are the same on both sides.

Thanks for your time and help.
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Old 07-12-2007, 09:00 PM   #62
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When you hit a new track, what sort of things do you look at changing to suit? IE last track was loose and tight, new track long straights and soild clay, fairly grooved. Obviously the 1st things is tyres, but after that when do you decide I need a bit mote toe in, more/less camber, adjust a roll bar here, decide to change some diff oil there.
I'm running a TQ.
I normally like to change my diffs to suite the track and its surface. lighten the center if it gets very rutty. aside from that I change my camber and shock angles to get more or less side bite. Put a little more toe out if i want a little more steering.
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Old 07-12-2007, 09:06 PM   #63
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I finshed rebuild my Hyper 7 and i'm having steering problems on the street. I have put on some street tires and did some laps in a parking lot. The turning radius was very bad.

I'm at factory settings, should I toe in or out more. I have those thread steering rods. Is there an upgrade? For adjusting toe in or out, what is the easiest way to do this?

Also I have a problem when I turn left, the left a-arms move up, even with shocks on. I can not see what the problem is, when I turn right the right a-arm do not move up. The stop screws are the same on both sides.

Thanks for your time and help.
for the steering radius, the hyper wasnt really meant for asphalt so dont expect too much turn. you can give it a little more toe out in the front too get more steering. you should be able to do this, by adjusting the turnbuckles, no need to upgrade.

For the arms first remove the shocks and let the arms droop down. turn the wheel by hand to the left and you should find something hitting either the A arm or the steering plate. you might have to do a little grinding on the plastic arm or your screw on the turnbuckle might be too long.

hope this helps.
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Old 07-13-2007, 10:31 AM   #64
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hey guys heres a pic of my milled out chassis
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hyper 7 thread-image-454-.jpg  
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Old 07-13-2007, 03:09 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickmind View Post
I finshed rebuild my Hyper 7 and i'm having steering problems on the street. I have put on some street tires and did some laps in a parking lot. The turning radius was very bad.

I'm at factory settings, should I toe in or out more. I have those thread steering rods. Is there an upgrade? For adjusting toe in or out, what is the easiest way to do this?

Also I have a problem when I turn left, the left a-arms move up, even with shocks on. I can not see what the problem is, when I turn right the right a-arm do not move up. The stop screws are the same on both sides.

Thanks for your time and help.
what servo you have? and put a longer servo horn.. for more steering ...
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Old 07-13-2007, 03:10 PM   #66
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and dose it bind when there no servo hooked up...?
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Old 07-13-2007, 06:05 PM   #67
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hey guys heres a pic of my milled out chassis
Im not sure if milling your chassis is a good idea, Ive bent a couple of chassis just racing (seem to get a rocker effect). Looks good and I can appreciate why you have done it, but for the cost of replacement is it worth it? Have you considered the longer chassis which is available? its 4mm thick and its pre-milled in low stress area's.
Keep us posted on how it holds up.
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Old 07-13-2007, 09:47 PM   #68
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Your right there is a possibility that the chassis will tweak, the surface we run on could make the difference. this is the 4mm chassis. I raced the hyper 7 pro for 3 years and this is still the original chassis no problems just dont mill it too deep. If I remember right some of the team drivers did the same thing. the first time I drove the car with the lightened chassis, I was so surprised at how it accelerated noticeably faster and it took the turns faster. Hobao was quite generous with the aluminum on this chassis. I wouldnt do this with the newer kits tho. I dont race my hyper7 anymore, moved on to the hyper8.
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Old 07-13-2007, 11:56 PM   #69
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Hows the Hyper 8 going Genius? Ive heard some good reports, im looking at upgrading to a newer car. I just haven't decided on which car it will be though. I'm looking at the Hyper 8, MTX5R, or the XB8ec.
The Hyper 7 has been a good cheap car for parts, which is a major factor on selecting a new buggy. But more so than that is how competitive it is. There doesn't seem to be a great deal of them around (Hyper 8"s) in my neck of the woods, and there is only one guy at my club racing one.
What can you tell me about the durability and ease of tune ability?
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Old 07-14-2007, 12:21 AM   #70
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I think its a great car. definitely a big improvement over the hyper 7. they did a lot of things that really kept the weight down which is why it accelerates really hard, but still kept the durability. a lot of tuning options, sometimes I find it to be too many lol. they did make it easy to change those settings. for me the main difference over the hyper7 is that its a more aggressive car . but with the future release of the hyper8.5 that should really make a huge improvement on the handling department. actually I run 2 cars right now the hyper8 and the jammin haha both are really great cars.
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Old 07-14-2007, 01:54 AM   #71
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An 8.5 eh,when is that due out? Did you find much difference in handling when you went to the H8?
Is any one running spider diffs? if so what's the benefit?
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Old 07-14-2007, 02:09 AM   #72
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dont know when the 8.5 will come out but should be soon.

definitely there is a differnce, the 8 is much more nimble on the bumps and more aggressive in the turns.

sometimes I use a spider diff in the front. because the spider diff has 2 more gears compared to the standard, the silicone inside will spool up or thicken up on power. so if you use 3000 it will be like 5000 on power and 3000 off power. this gives you the best of both worlds more turn on and off power. something like that

aside from that some people say that spider diffs are more reliable. I havent had any problems with the standard diff though
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Old 07-14-2007, 10:24 AM   #73
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didn't know that there making a new buggy..lol
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Old 07-14-2007, 11:38 AM   #74
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Quote:
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what servo you have? and put a longer servo horn.. for more steering ...
i have a Futaba 9450 with dynamite Aluminum Servo arm. The servo has the full throw both left and right.

There has to be a way to get better steering for the street.
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Old 07-15-2007, 12:13 AM   #75
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check the tension of your servo saver, sometimes overtime the servo saver might unscrew itself. that should also help steering
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