yuppi1

iTrader: (13)

Hin guys i am running at a local track and just can't seem to find and traction. it is fairly dusty but solid ground. I am running medium GRP tyres and 30000 wieght in my shocks

ANY HELP?

cheers

imaxx21

iTrader: (1)

take that toothpaste out of your shocks, and put some shock fluid in them...

MontanaMaxx

iTrader: (12)

is that a typo or is that really 30,000 that your running in your shocks? usually i run 40 to 50 weight oil in my 1/8 buggy

RJNicholson

Holy crap can you even compress your shocks. Unless the oil your using is measured in a system that is uncommon I would hope 30000 weight means 30wt oil.

I would be a little more clear and post your complete set up and what car it's on, and I'm sure you will get a ton of replies from guys that can point you in the right direction.

KWT-NITRO

iTrader: (9)

man what's your car at least?? 30000 ?? i use 30000 for my On-road rear diff not shocks. give us an idea about your car, your track sounds alot like ours, hard packed/sandy/loamy track, i might be able to help you alot just post your set-up.

cheers

Ali

yuppi1

iTrader: (13)

my bad guys, it is 30wt. I am running a cen matrix. Here is my diff oils-

Centre- 10000
Front- 7000
Rear- 3000

Im not sure what else you want to know?

cheers

Flipfly

Yuppi

Lots of things can affect the level of traction you get.

The camber of your wheels is quite influential to your grip levels. The droop on the suspension, anti roll bar settings, shock upright position, tyre foams. All these things will affect your traction levels.

To blindly throw suggestions could take weeks.

Are you expecting too much from a dusty surface? The best drivers seem to find impossible levels of grip, it's not usualy the car that does all of this, the driving style also plays a massive part. A well set up car is the first step, but you may need to look at your driving style also in order to make the most of the set up.

patrick lsp

iTrader: (191)

i would start with a set of soft tires. i have never had much luck finding grip with medium compounds. soft i beams, bowties, etc.

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

I'd say you're a little high on the diff fluids. 10k in the center in a buggy is a VERY aggressive setup. You'll find the car to be easier to drive if you go down... depending on how aggressive you like the car, I'd say more like 5k front 5k center 3k rear.

I'm not familiar with GRP tires so I can't say much there... run what the fast guys at your track are running, with one caveat- if you can't stay in the groove, stay away from "small pin" tires. They're great on a blue-groove surface, but absolutly HORRIBLE out in the fluff.

Also, where are you having traction problems? Front? (car pushes) Rear? (tries to swap ends?)

What springs are you running? (Shock fluid weight and spring stiffness need to be fairly well matched...) How is your roll center set? Raising the inner camber link will give you more "bite." Adding rear toe will give you more side bite in the rear, at the expense of "stepping out" more violently when it does let go...

How much negative camber are you running?

KWT-NITRO

iTrader: (9)

hello there,
i'm not a CEN set-up expert but ill give you my 2 cents since we always run
on loose sandy tracks.
i would do the following set-up and start from there and then fine tune the car to your driving style.

Tires: most importnat aspect of your set-up, and for loose/sandy tracks, nothing can beat the AKA I-Beam in super soft compund i tried alot of tires from different manufacturer and those are the tires i love.

Diff oils: 5k front 5k mid and 3k rear (you dont need hight numbers when traction is not there, tires will spin but no forword bite because of traction.

shock oils, front 50, rear 30 or 35 . dont forget the temp, if the temp is low, go lower in oil viscousity (did i spell it right??)

droop: depends on your track, if bumpy with lots of holes, run more droop so the car will be more stable on bumpy sections and doesnt bounce around.

ride hight: stick with CVDs to mesure since i dont know what the values for the CEN. Front (level), rear a bit below level. if you have big jumps and the car bottoms alot, then do the front a bit above level and rear level.

Toe: use the maximum Toe-in available for the rear (3 or 3.5)
try to limit the front toe-out to 1 or 1.5

camber: rear 2.5 and front 1.5, if the car tends to roll in the middle of a turn or you feel the car is catching each bump on a turn, increase by .5 both rear and front.

springs: run softer springs in the rear (eg: soft fronts and super softs in the rear or mid/soft fronts and soft in the rears)

sway bars: softer rear sway bars and tighten the front a mill or 2mms.

last but not least is your clutch set-up, dont run a very agressive clutch such as all aluminum shoes + 1.1 springs. start from a smooth clutch set-up and change the clutch from there by adding one aluminum shoes at a time or increasing the spring tension step by step.

try those set-up tips and your next post you will be asking for more steering since you will have too much rear grip

cheers

Ali

romax

iTrader: (1)

I used to run a cen matrix , it's still sitting in the trailer as a matter of fact . I can't remember my complete setup but do remember for a loose track what worked best in the diffs was 7 k front 5 k center 2 k rear . I think shocks were 40 front 30 rear , stock blue springs. Seems to me i changed the rear toe plate from stock also .

Poltro

iTrader: (10)

I was running my cen matrix with a 553 or 453 on the diffs. For the shocks 35F 30R with the piston 2.
I was also running short camber links front and rear.

As other suggested get some AKA I beams or city blocks they will make a big difference...