Mugen MBX5R
03-17-2008, 04:22 PM
#902
I was having severe tuning issues this past weekend. Pulled that tank from my 5R, and it the stonefilter is also rattling, but has not come loose yet. I could not get my engine to tune for the life of me.
Do I need a new tank? Or is there a way tighten the stonefilter in place? It seems to move up, and down about a 1/4 inch.
Thanks Sean.
As for the Mugen clutch springs, there is a bad batch out there, and has been for a few months. I have read several different threads about broken Mugen Clutch Springs. I would p/u a different brand, as stay away from the Mugens for a few more months.
Do I need a new tank? Or is there a way tighten the stonefilter in place? It seems to move up, and down about a 1/4 inch.
Thanks Sean.
As for the Mugen clutch springs, there is a bad batch out there, and has been for a few months. I have read several different threads about broken Mugen Clutch Springs. I would p/u a different brand, as stay away from the Mugens for a few more months.
03-17-2008, 04:24 PM
#903
The threaded part when the brake linkages attach to the horn should sit inside the horn, not outside.
03-17-2008, 05:11 PM
#905
Tech Adept
03-17-2008, 06:04 PM
#906
03-17-2008, 06:18 PM
#907
Hi Guys,
I am building an MBX5R.
I use an Airtronics 94357 throttle/brake servo with the stock Airtronics servo horn. The fuel tubing on the rod is 10mm long.
With this setup, when going approx. half throttle, the lower brake rod is _very_ close to the spur gear and the splash guard/tank (see attached pix). So close that the collar almost touches the spur gear or the tank.
I am building according to specs and my setup matches Mugen's pictures of a built car. However, I feel that the collar might be to close to the spur gear/tank, so that it could get caught.
Is that amount of little clearance normal?
Thanks for your feedback,
Frank
I am building an MBX5R.
I use an Airtronics 94357 throttle/brake servo with the stock Airtronics servo horn. The fuel tubing on the rod is 10mm long.
With this setup, when going approx. half throttle, the lower brake rod is _very_ close to the spur gear and the splash guard/tank (see attached pix). So close that the collar almost touches the spur gear or the tank.
I am building according to specs and my setup matches Mugen's pictures of a built car. However, I feel that the collar might be to close to the spur gear/tank, so that it could get caught.
Is that amount of little clearance normal?
Thanks for your feedback,
Frank
It is a tricky set-up to get the brakes right , i don't run that much fuel tube only about 5mm for the top link and 3mm for the bottom and once i am happy with the set-up i remove any excess from the back of the rods .
Looking at my bottom rod it is about 2mm from spur gear and i have moved the lever forward 1mm to give the extra clearance , hope the pics help
Attachment 321192
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Attachment 321194
Last edited by Slippery; 08-15-2010 at 10:28 PM.
03-17-2008, 06:26 PM
#908
Registered User
hi, does anyone know what it takes to converty an MSR back to buggy form?
03-17-2008, 07:14 PM
#909
Frank,
The angle of your brake rods looks pretty extreme to me. I never had an issue with them on my MBX5, MBX5 Prospec, MSR, MBX5T and MBX5R so I think you just need to play around with it a bit more. If the splash guard gets in the way, you can always shave a bit off, just make sure the rod isn;t hitting the tank.
The angle of your brake rods looks pretty extreme to me. I never had an issue with them on my MBX5, MBX5 Prospec, MSR, MBX5T and MBX5R so I think you just need to play around with it a bit more. If the splash guard gets in the way, you can always shave a bit off, just make sure the rod isn;t hitting the tank.
03-17-2008, 09:45 PM
#910
As for the brake rods, you can adjust the lower lever on the center diff forward a bit, but I would try like what someone said earlier and flip the brake pivots over (the end the rods thread into) so the rods thread on the inside of the bolt holding it to the horn. Also make sure the collar ends have the set screws postioned up, so the don't catch or rub the tank, tank guard or spur. The Mugen settings for the brake levers can be a bit off depending on the servo horn you use, so adjust the center diff braqke levers so the rods clear withoout any binding oor touching anything. I personally use Kyosho MP777 throttle/brake linkage. It uses springs and cones to hold the rods centered in the brake levers, instead of fuel tubing, so they don't flop around as much. It also pivots smoother than the Mugen linkage unless you drill out the horn and top brake pivot attached to the servo horn.
The pics attached show my linkage, but the Kyosho ones. As close as they look like touching the spur and tank, they actually clear. Just make to operate the linkage and make sure.
The pics attached show my linkage, but the Kyosho ones. As close as they look like touching the spur and tank, they actually clear. Just make to operate the linkage and make sure.
03-18-2008, 09:50 AM
#911
Hey guys,
What is the difference between the MBX5R shocks and the MBX5 shocks size wise? I am not sure what each of them are, and I am trying to decide if I should get an MBX5R car and use it, or, just keep rocking with the MBX5 I have that has some R parts on it, other than shocks and the like.
What is the difference between the MBX5R shocks and the MBX5 shocks size wise? I am not sure what each of them are, and I am trying to decide if I should get an MBX5R car and use it, or, just keep rocking with the MBX5 I have that has some R parts on it, other than shocks and the like.
03-18-2008, 10:18 AM
#912
Tech Adept
I believe the 5R shocks are longer to increase the downtravel of the buddy.
03-18-2008, 10:34 AM
#913
the 5R shocks use the 5T shafts....also the 5R has the different tower's...and liek savagebeing said u get more uptravel in the suspension....there's Lots more to the 5R then Just the shocks tho....the whole front end has is different from what i can tell....and GoooD racin last weekend buddy....I had a Blast. 
03-18-2008, 11:42 AM
#914
Just to add to the R and T shocks. They are both the same EXCEPT for the pistons. T's run 1.4 hole and R's run 1.5 hole pistons. Also the ackerman, steering ass'y and tire rods are different. The knuckles and arms are reshaped for the longer suspension travel. Also the front kick plate was changed.
I would add the front kickup, ackerman and steering to a MBX5 for now. The longer shocks do help, but you can hold off and run the MBX5 just fine as is.
I would add the front kickup, ackerman and steering to a MBX5 for now. The longer shocks do help, but you can hold off and run the MBX5 just fine as is.
03-18-2008, 12:07 PM
#915
If you meant me, racing was fun last weekend. Drive wasn't too bad getting there either. Just need to increase tire selection so not as much wheel slippage, that I think really caused me to dump way early.
So, for the 5R shocks, are the bodies any wider than the standard MBX5 shocks? Sounds like its just a longer shot shaft, and I am assuming longer shock bodies pretty much.
Wonder if it woudl be better if I decided to go with a different brand of big bore shock?
So, for the 5R shocks, are the bodies any wider than the standard MBX5 shocks? Sounds like its just a longer shot shaft, and I am assuming longer shock bodies pretty much.
Wonder if it woudl be better if I decided to go with a different brand of big bore shock?