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Old 06-23-2008, 02:26 PM   #1291
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I have been racing mugen mbx5 prospec for while and recently got the mbx5r and was racing sunday last. I used the same setup as my old car on my new car or very similar anyway. BUT i am having a problem with the car rolling at a particular part on the track as its a long rough and corner. I was using 40 front 37.5 rear as the track has a load of jumps i lowered the car 3mm and it handled better but on landing one of the jumps in the final flywheel musta hit ground or somthing as car just stalled on landing.

so looking for any advice to help stop the car rolling shock positions are on the lower arms (holes closest to the wheel) and on the shock towers middle mounting holes. pistons etc are stock.

i am wondering should i try running shockoil 35 30 or 30 30.

thanks
What sway bars are you running? If they are the stock ones you may want to go to the lighter ones. Also you might be a little heavy on the shock oil depending on the temperature in your area. You can bring the shocks out one spot on tower to help stable it up but it will hurt the tight cornering a little.
I run the lightest sway bars for the Mugen, and 27.5 in the front 30 in the back for oils and lots of droop with arms level. Also the gray long springs front and rear.
I am by no means an expert, but I get around alright. JMO good luck hopefully some others will have some ideas as well.
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Old 06-23-2008, 02:46 PM   #1292
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i had the same problem last meet also i was grip rolling when in previous meetings i had no such problems, in the end i just tried to adjust my driving to suit which meant i couldnt push as hard as i normally would like, the only change was we re laid the track using parts of the ground which were un-used and maybe they had more grip, the other thing was i think i may have reversed the front top wishbone bushes to the top position as im sure they were previously low (not the best for writing set up down) so i will try them in the lower position for the next meeting, we dont have much time really as we run in the evening and dont have lighting so the gaps between runs are kept to a minimum which means turning up with the car working, thank godness the mugen doesnt break is all i can say.
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Old 06-23-2008, 04:05 PM   #1293
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Queitstorm76
no you are on the right gear thinking there it just works different to how you think it would work if that makes sense, i always thought the bigger gear would aid acceleration as a bigger spur does but it doesnt the smaller crown gear will turn faster than a bigger gear does and increases acceleration in the process.

Maximugen
thats what i thought just wanted to make sure as people do read what is on these forums and do whats posted
I have to disagree Slow, the smaller gear puts more load on the motor. Yeah you increase top speed but your acceleration still suffers. I'm new to off-road but I've ran on-road for nearly 10 years and fully understand gearing.
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Old 06-23-2008, 04:18 PM   #1294
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I run the 38t in the rear with the stock bevel believe it or not.. it works well and the mesh is good. I purchased the recommended 11t bevel but the mesh wasnt to my likeing so the stock was put back in and i havent had any problems. the rpm increaseed giving me a lil jump on the hairpins
Where do you get an 11t bevel gear?
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Old 06-23-2008, 11:04 PM   #1295
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Try taking some droop out. A little bit up front and a bit more than that in the rear. Really helps me when the track gets rutted. The car does tend to rotate quicker as well.
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Old 06-24-2008, 01:30 AM   #1296
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Wonder who taught u that brad?
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Old 06-24-2008, 01:41 AM   #1297
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Where do you get an 11t bevel gear?
carolinasrc or amain

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...?idcategory=18

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2273

the 38/11 crown & pinion was made by mugen to increase acceleration either in the rear or both diffs

Quote:
38T Conical Gear MBX5 (MUGC0272)


38T Optional Gear for your Diffs. By using this optional diff gear in the Rear differential, acceleration out of the corner can be improved by increasing the RPM in the rear diff.

Using this gear in the front and rear diffs is a way to gear the buggy down without adjusting pinion/spur combo.

MUST be used with C0273 Optional Bevel Gear.
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:25 AM   #1298
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no worries slow coach

i have recently installed the 5T truggy diff gears in the front and back of me 5r, along with a 17t clutch bell and the stock 46t spur (too tight to buy a 44t atm lol) and the car is a whole lot more snappy, feels like a whole new car

only cost me about $60 too, look on eBay at all the chop shops, and then pick urself up a clutch bell of amain etc.

highly recomended
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Old 06-24-2008, 05:36 AM   #1299
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Wonder who taught u that brad?
Get your losi germs out of here...
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Old 06-24-2008, 05:48 AM   #1300
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You wont be saying that after this friday
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Old 06-24-2008, 07:11 AM   #1301
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Thanks for the tips guys

sway bars im currently using are 2.4 2.9 mm i have just adjusted my shocks my moving the upper moutning holes further downwards so they are at more o an angle now and not as upright so i will see how that works out next sundays racing and will also adjust the droops as you guys have said see how that effects it. I am not to worried about steering as i have far to much and actually have adjusted the endpoints to less than half on my controller, I dont no if this is the same on all mbx5rs but all i have changed is im using k factory cf sevro saver setup and lotto pivot balls. Are track is a fixed track but changes every 2 weeks last race day was different layout again but next race day will be same as last.

Surface i run on it rutted and roof mixture hard packs dirt,grass and astro and mud if its wet lol

heres a link to pic of the orignal layout http://www.badmcc.com/ now it has a stepped corner far left a bombhole as an option round the middle of the track a longer table top modifed middle 2 jumps now much larger tighter corners and few humps etc throughout and a huge run up to the double double jumps at far right.

thanks adam
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Old 06-24-2008, 07:51 AM   #1302
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Nice track ADZ06 im just down the channel from you in the channel islands

what set up you running tyres and especially the bushes which alter roll centre and droop settings etc, im also running the shocks more laid over one hole up on towers furthest out on arms im never at full lock always enough to get round the track.
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Old 06-24-2008, 12:27 PM   #1303
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Cool, well by bushings i am guessing from memory they are the black insert type things i have all of them set high (as in the hole upwards)
tyres vary last week i was running bowties m2 as it was dusty and try and they where unreal, i generally always run angle spikes in the wet.
Droops i have never really thought of touchign i currently have the grub screws flush with the arms all round.

front suspension Shocks
camber -2 front 40
upper arm spacer 2mm Rear 37.5
toe angle -1 stock pistons grey springs
anti roll bar 2.4mm
kick up 0
lower arm spacer 2mm steering ackerman (middle hole)

Rear Suspension
camber 2 front 40
upper arm spacer 2mm Rear 37.5
toe angle -2.75 stock pistons grey springs
anti roll bar 2.9mm
wheel base adjustment 5mm and mounted 1 up from the bottom on upright
lower arm spacer 2mm

Well guess thats pretty much everything so all advice and critism welcome thanks.
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Old 06-24-2008, 02:26 PM   #1304
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black or white shock pistons ??

just sussing the rest out lol
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Old 06-24-2008, 03:09 PM   #1305
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Originally Posted by adz06 View Post
Cool, well by bushings i am guessing from memory they are the black insert type things i have all of them set high (as in the hole upwards)
tyres vary last week i was running bowties m2 as it was dusty and try and they where unreal, i generally always run angle spikes in the wet.
Droops i have never really thought of touchign i currently have the grub screws flush with the arms all round.

front suspension Shocks
camber -2 front 40
upper arm spacer 2mm Rear 37.5
toe angle -1 stock pistons grey springs
anti roll bar 2.4mm
kick up 0
lower arm spacer 2mm steering ackerman (middle hole)

Rear Suspension
camber 2 front 40
upper arm spacer 2mm Rear 37.5
toe angle -2.75 stock pistons grey springs
anti roll bar 2.9mm
wheel base adjustment 5mm and mounted 1 up from the bottom on upright
lower arm spacer 2mm

Well guess thats pretty much everything so all advice and critism welcome thanks.
Earlier someone sugested running lighter sway bars but you actually want heavier swaybars to reduce rolling. Also, go softer on your shock oils. There's no fixing the bottoming that comes with big jumps but running oil that heavy will cause other issues and the shocks will be especially slow to return (rebound). If you're traction rolling, try clipping off the outside row of knobs on your tires (common trick with Crimefighters), this will take the edge off without upsetting the car in other ways. Always use the lower hole on the rear upright/arm hinge too.
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