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Old 06-11-2008, 12:53 AM   #1246
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Anyone?!?!?!?!?

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Originally Posted by vti-chris View Post
Can anyone measure these on their MBX5r front shock tower?
I would also like your input on the carbon shock towers sold on ebay...if someone has tried them out!
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Old 06-11-2008, 05:38 AM   #1247
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Bill from BCE does make chassis for the 5R, in fact Scott Hughes ran the chassis at the ROAR Nats.

here is his website to where you can hopefully get in contact with him.

http://www.rcracingparts.com/

that e mail and the website contact doesnt work, any other ideas???
thanks
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Old 06-11-2008, 05:42 AM   #1248
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also does anyone know if the 5 is the same as the 5R chassis???
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Old 06-11-2008, 05:59 AM   #1249
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pretty much the same just need to grind some chassis away on the edge under the front of the arms at the front of the chassis, if that makes sense
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Old 06-11-2008, 04:05 PM   #1250
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Originally Posted by quietstorm76 View Post
Can someone tell me what primary parts are needed to convert from X5 to X5R?

Just the necessary parts to get the handling characteristics such as the improved steering.

you can get away with the shocks and towers, if your going to run full droop you will need the new arms as well, that wil get you going if you want the revised steering then you will need the ackerman plate and servo saver stuff as well, the newer front uprights also allow more steering but if you have replaced recently you mave have them already, that should do you tbh

carolinasrc have a list of all the new parts check it out

http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/...idcategory=466
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Old 06-11-2008, 04:09 PM   #1251
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Anyone?!?!?!?!?

ill see if i can measure it tomorrow but why do you need them you making your own ??
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Old 06-11-2008, 04:19 PM   #1252
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Originally Posted by Turbine_au View Post
My clutch seems to be overheating, discolouring the clutch bell and killing clutch bearings. Anyone know where I should be looking for a problem? Aluminium shoes, 1mm springs, 14t cb, standard spur, novarossi Plus 21-5. Shoe wear to be expected, springs still sit within shoe easy.
what quality bearings you running, if they are cheap replace more often. if they are good quality you may be ok for a bit longer, i used to get probs discolouring cb but i now spray all the grease out the bearings and put a couple of drops of acer racings sin lube in the bearings it really helps them spin freely while still maintaining lube which doesnt fling off into the clutch i dont get probs anymore, put it this way when i rebuild the clutch with new bearings i can spin the cb by hand and it keeps spinning for a good while then gradually slows down, with the standard grease they never spun up to the same speed and came to a stop much quicker, also try a good quality motor oil mobil1 0w stuff a drop is all you need though you dont want to overoil it either
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Old 06-12-2008, 07:30 PM   #1253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow coach View Post
you can get away with the shocks and towers, if your going to run full droop you will need the new arms as well, that wil get you going if you want the revised steering then you will need the ackerman plate and servo saver stuff as well, the newer front uprights also allow more steering but if you have replaced recently you mave have them already, that should do you tbh

carolinasrc have a list of all the new parts check it out

http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/...idcategory=466
Perfect answer, exactly what I needed to know.
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Old 06-13-2008, 02:25 AM   #1254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow coach View Post
what quality bearings you running, if they are cheap replace more often. if they are good quality you may be ok for a bit longer, i used to get probs discolouring cb but i now spray all the grease out the bearings and put a couple of drops of acer racings sin lube in the bearings it really helps them spin freely while still maintaining lube which doesnt fling off into the clutch i dont get probs anymore, put it this way when i rebuild the clutch with new bearings i can spin the cb by hand and it keeps spinning for a good while then gradually slows down, with the standard grease they never spun up to the same speed and came to a stop much quicker, also try a good quality motor oil mobil1 0w stuff a drop is all you need though you dont want to overoil it either
he ran in the mud its going to overheat the cb and bearings. even when we run indoor on highbite its puts a lot of heat into the cb and clutchlife is very short.
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Old 06-13-2008, 03:54 AM   #1255
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he ran in the mud its going to overheat the cb and bearings. even when we run indoor on highbite its puts a lot of heat into the cb and clutchlife is very short.
just re read this post this was for the other enquiry re clutch set up and he wasnt running in the mud, Pracy was turbine who i replied re bearings didnt or didnt mention mud in his original post


true forgot the extra weight would apply more load to the clutch, change to a 13t also when your running in mud you want as much low down as possible to pull you through.
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Old 06-13-2008, 05:55 AM   #1256
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?
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Old 06-13-2008, 06:00 AM   #1257
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sorry coach, ill take a lap.lol
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Old 06-13-2008, 06:56 AM   #1258
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I never ran in the mud. Wouldn't put the car through that, especially as I'm only a club racer.

They were the mugen bearings which I've never had a problem before. I replaced them, blowing the grease out with a compressor prior to installing the inside bearing and the car felt perfect last weekend. I think that the 14t was a bit much, so I've switched back to the 13t. Set my new PB qualifying run last weekend which was nice too. The car was on rails.
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Old 06-13-2008, 02:16 PM   #1259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbine_au View Post
I never ran in the mud. Wouldn't put the car through that, especially as I'm only a club racer.

They were the mugen bearings which I've never had a problem before. I replaced them, blowing the grease out with a compressor prior to installing the inside bearing and the car felt perfect last weekend. I think that the 14t was a bit much, so I've switched back to the 13t. Set my new PB qualifying run last weekend which was nice too. The car was on rails.

14t should be easy to run if anything it would make the car a touch easier to drive not so much kick on the bottom end a lot of racers will run 14t if the track is slippery.
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Old 06-13-2008, 07:45 PM   #1260
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Well my 14t bell is destroyed now so i'll stick with the 13t. A little negative expo on the throttle tames the rear end down under power.
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