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Old 05-29-2008, 12:15 PM   #1186
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Starter box,
I also run cvd boots. I use the sportwerks ones and pack the cvd's with Mugen joint grease on all the cvd's. You have to replace the ones on the front every other race day, but I think it's just a preventitive maintance for a wearing part thats pretty spendy to rebuild.


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Old 05-29-2008, 12:42 PM   #1187
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Starter box,
I also run cvd boots. I use the sportwerks ones and pack the cvd's with Mugen joint grease on all the cvd's. You have to replace the ones on the front every other race day, but I think it's just a preventitive maintance for a wearing part thats pretty spendy to rebuild.


Chuck
Hi Chuck,

Same experience with the front ones here.

I use the Dynamite Black Universal CVA Shaft Boots (Tmaxx, MBX5, TTR) #DYN7687 from A Main Hobbies. What part number are your Sportwerks ones? Is it #SWK9011? They look a lot like my Dynamite ones. I guess they are even the same parts, only that the Sportwerks cost less (six for the price of four).

Thanks,
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Old 05-29-2008, 01:39 PM   #1188
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I use the Dynamite boots...work great
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Old 05-29-2008, 07:43 PM   #1189
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well grease is on its way and so is somenew shoe sets

Tony, do you reommend using double gaskets in the diffs? does it help with the leaking? I also have some 0.9mm gasket paper i could make 1 thick gasket with if that would help?

I tried to order another set of gaskets but dist is out of stock of them here in aus for 2 weeks...

Longer screws and single gasket or wait for doubles? (i could just go with another brand of course)

or make a single 0.9mm gasket?


cheers
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:05 PM   #1190
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pracy,
To cure the leaking diffs, I used some 1000 grit sand paper and on the surface where the ring gear goes sand it on the paper on a flat surface in a figure 8 pattern a few time to make the surface flat. Since it is a casted part. The sand paper will make a really nice flat surface. Plus i also us a little black rtv.


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Old 05-30-2008, 12:15 AM   #1191
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pracy,

I sand all of my diff cups when new too. I use 400, then 1000, then 1500 grit emery cloth. Like chuck said, just swirl the cup on a smooth flat surface in a figure 8 pattern. It takes less than 1-1/2 minutes to do all three cups and they'll all be as flat and smooth as glass. Then just use the longer screws. One gasket should work fine. I have used both one or two gaskets and both never leaked.

For my CVD's, pillow balls, hinge pins, etc, I use Dow 557 lubricant. It is a spray on dry silicone lubricant that works very well. It doesn't attract dust/dirt. It comes in a spray can. It's a bit pricey.

Best regards,
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Old 05-30-2008, 08:08 AM   #1192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonysScrews View Post
pracy,

I sand all of my diff cups when new too. I use 400, then 1000, then 1500 grit emery cloth. Like chuck said, just swirl the cup on a smooth flat surface in a figure 8 pattern. It takes less than 1-1/2 minutes to do all three cups and they'll all be as flat and smooth as glass. Then just use the longer screws. One gasket should work fine. I have used both one or two gaskets and both never leaked.

For my CVD's, pillow balls, hinge pins, etc, I use Dow 557 lubricant. It is a spray on dry silicone lubricant that works very well. It doesn't attract dust/dirt. It comes in a spray can. It's a bit pricey.

Best regards,
what about graphite???

-DC-
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Old 05-30-2008, 08:33 AM   #1193
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Pracy
I do the exact same process to my clutch shoes and bearings as Tony and get the same results he does. Good wear life and no bearing probs. you do want to blast the excess grease out of the bearings when they're new like Tony said so you don't get the grease on your shoes and also to much grease can create extra heat in the bearing. I have not used anything other than the stock clutch shoes and springs with Avid bearings. Works Killer!
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Old 05-30-2008, 09:23 AM   #1194
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spray all my bearings through with cleaner then re-lube with acer sin lube this stuff doesnt fling and really lets the bearing spin while maintaining lubrication, i have also heard of people using a drop of mobil 1 oil to lube as its designed for heat and to stick to engine components but not tried it myself.

not tried sanding diffs yet probably because i havent ordered the extra seals to run 2 and i would probably want to try this as it frees the diffs up a bit also, but i do run longer screws to torque down the gears seems to work better, i also use silkolene RG2 (racing grease) for the diff outputs and the 2 O rings should work well for o rings as its also used for full size suspension seals and the diffs dont seem to leak so i guess it does the outdrives ok also.

for the cvd's i use a dry lube designed for cycle chains and other metal/metal parts, good thing is it dries completely cant remember off hand what its called but might be finish line

Yep finishline krytech dry lube
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Last edited by slow coach; 05-31-2008 at 12:58 AM. Reason: had a look at bottle
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Old 05-30-2008, 10:16 PM   #1195
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what about graphite???

-DC-
I've never tried graphite on the pins or pillow balls (except for a long ways back when I ran the Innovative Design Lottaballs on my MSR conversion). The Dow 557 works really good.
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Old 05-31-2008, 01:13 AM   #1196
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Just an idea if anyones interested, the silkolene RG2 i use comes in a large tub so rather than trying to scoop some out as i need it i fill a syringe body with the grease and it makes it much easier to apply where you want it, i also run a thin bead around the base of the diff housings to seal against the chassis, again this makes that job very easy and wont waste or get grease where you dont want it, hope you find it useful

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-824-silk...ng-grease.aspx
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Last edited by slow coach; 05-31-2008 at 01:25 AM.
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Old 05-31-2008, 05:16 PM   #1197
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Hi pracy,

The stock 3x8mm screws are way too short and the #1 reason why the diffs leak at the gasket (most think it is at the o-rings but it is more common for the gasket to leak). The longer screws will grab no problem as I put 3x15mm flat heads in my Mugen screw kit so you'll have another 7mm of threads threading into new plastic. Before you install the longer screws, drive a 3x12mm cap head into the cup without the gear on it so it pre-threads it all the way in. The cap heads use a bigger 2.5mm hex wrench making the job much easier. Then install the gear and 3xz15mm flat heads. Be sure to use a lot of grease on the o-rings, out drive and shim behind the inside bevel gear. USe Mugen Super Grease, Mobil 1 synthetic grease (any auto parts store has the tube) or the Maxima synthetic grease (most motorcycle shops have the tub).

Best regards,
ive done this.... but the more grip seems to mess with the gear mesh (conical & bevel) similar to bad cb and spr gear mesh... I put the smaller screws back in and the mesh corrected itself.. iam i missing something....? maybe a shim or somthing...?
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Old 05-31-2008, 06:51 PM   #1198
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anybody know were u can get this part and perhaps the bennifit of it..looks like it extends the shock further maybe more stability


http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/xcga...album=50&pos=3
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Old 05-31-2008, 06:54 PM   #1199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vsfriedmugan View Post
anybody know were u can get this part and perhaps the bennifit of it..looks like it extends the shock further maybe more stability


http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/xcga...album=50&pos=3



Losi 8T rear arms have something similar to that....but u cant get em seperatly...and i dont know if they would fit.....hrmm....i got mugen arms kicking around...and some spare losi things....Ill chk and get back to u.
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Old 05-31-2008, 06:58 PM   #1200
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yes they will fit...but the holes are a HAIR off..maby a 1/2mm or 1mm....im sure u could make em work with a little dremeling.
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