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Old 05-27-2008, 12:48 AM   #1171
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what do the small springs do?

do you guys have this problem or have i set something up wrong?

the way i see it the linkage rod will never slide through the brake levers nice and smooth so i think all mbx5r's would have this brake bind on throttle application...
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Old 05-27-2008, 03:42 AM   #1172
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in the past i have ground the end which isnt used for braking off the cam this eliminates the problem completely, try the trick tony posted i have tried the orings around inner pads and it works well no binding but good braking throughout, are you using stock linkages ?
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:52 AM   #1173
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thankyou for your reply slow coach

i seen some of the posts from tony but must have missed that bit,

can you please explain where the o-rings are used and what they affect?

yeah i am using the stock linkages...

cheers!
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:05 AM   #1174
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thankyou slow coach and tony.

i went back to pg36 and stared at the picture til i reliased where the rubber is used i was looking between in the pads but i see where it goes now.

thankyou
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:19 AM   #1175
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Try page 9 or page 31, see if your brake problem matches anything there. Hope it helps.
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Old 05-27-2008, 03:03 PM   #1176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pracy View Post
what do the small springs do?

do you guys have this problem or have i set something up wrong?

the way i see it the linkage rod will never slide through the brake levers nice and smooth so i think all mbx5r's would have this brake bind on throttle application...
the springs go between the brake pads spreading them when the brakes arent applied. only issue i have ever had with brakes binding was from dirt i did not see (was bad maintanance between rounds on my part) or i had too much free space between the brake pads allowing the discs to wiggle and drag in the brake pads. (i use the thick high temp fiberglass discs and no guide)
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Old 05-27-2008, 06:50 PM   #1177
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pracy,

It always helps to have another set of eyes look at your car. The nice thing about these online forums is you can post one picture and have hundreds of sets of eyes look at it. If you have access to a digital camera, snap a picture of your linkages. If you can't host it, email it to me at tony@tony1034.com and I will host it for you.

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Old 05-28-2008, 04:08 AM   #1178
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Thanks Tony, I will take a pic of the setup tomorrow once I have it back together. I pulled it apart to add the rubber rings to the brake setup and noticed my diff was leaking. I cracked it open to check how much had leaked and it was pretty much empty

I cleaned it out and filled it back up and have tighten it up hard but one of the screws had stripped the plastic This has rushed me to order a screw kit from youself to fix this problem and add to my spares...

The order is through and I have sent you an email.

Do you think the longer screws will grab and tighten in the stripped hole or should i look for a new diff case?

How tight do you do the longer screws? I had placed a fair amount of torque on the small screws once I have re-filled the case as I didn't want them to leak again thats when the strip occured

cheers!
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Old 05-28-2008, 04:38 AM   #1179
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Hi pracy,

The stock 3x8mm screws are way too short and the #1 reason why the diffs leak at the gasket (most think it is at the o-rings but it is more common for the gasket to leak). The longer screws will grab no problem as I put 3x15mm flat heads in my Mugen screw kit so you'll have another 7mm of threads threading into new plastic. Before you install the longer screws, drive a 3x12mm cap head into the cup without the gear on it so it pre-threads it all the way in. The cap heads use a bigger 2.5mm hex wrench making the job much easier. Then install the gear and 3xz15mm flat heads. Be sure to use a lot of grease on the o-rings, out drive and shim behind the inside bevel gear. USe Mugen Super Grease, Mobil 1 synthetic grease (any auto parts store has the tube) or the Maxima synthetic grease (most motorcycle shops have the tub).

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Old 05-28-2008, 04:41 PM   #1180
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Thankyou again Tony!

is there a different between

Mugen Super Grease and
Mugen Super Joint grease?


I also have some Loctite PFTE Premium Food Grade silicone based grease High Temp stuff, would this be as good i wonder?

cheers!
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Old 05-28-2008, 10:25 PM   #1181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pracy View Post
Thankyou again Tony!

is there a different between

Mugen Super Grease and
Mugen Super Joint grease?


I also have some Loctite PFTE Premium Food Grade silicone based grease High Temp stuff, would this be as good i wonder?

cheers!
Yes, there is a difference. The Mugen Super Grease is dark in color (sort of brown). It is very thick and tacky. The joint grease is very thin and a light tan in color. It is used on the CVD pins/barrels.

I'm not sure about the Loctite grease as I've never seen it before. I know the Mobil 1 and Maxima grease work.

http://www.maximausa.com/products/misc/grease.asp

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ic_Grease.aspx
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:21 AM   #1182
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Thanks Tony, I have gotten both greases and will use them in the places suggested...

I don't think i need to take a picture as I have just got it back together and its working great!! big thanks

I will take a pic tomorrow hopefully just so everyone can see it setup properly and you can pick out anything i may have wrong but i think its all good to go...

I have the rods on the inside of the screw on the horn on all three linkage rods and have adjusted the brake lever so the linkage rod is now going straight through the centre.. works great.

One thing that isn't working too great is the rubber band. how small of a band do you guys use? I had a couple and tried them and also a hair band but it doesn't pull back on the carb enough to close it. doesn't even move it to be specific. I had the band on the front of the carb so it didn't rub the carb boot but i just looked at the pic on page 31 and he has it over the rubber boot which may make it pull straighter and work. does it wear through the rubber boot though?

I also looked at my clutch and i couldn't believe how fast it has worn. i am almost (.5mm) worn through to rubbing on the springs which i guess is the end of the shoes life?
stock shoes, stock 1mm springs,vspec and about 3 race days and a couple park runs and they're are toast.
will order some 7075 alloy shoes (couple pairs lol) next week i guess.
how long should the stock shoes have lasted?

thank all!
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Old 05-29-2008, 06:56 AM   #1183
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(...).

I also looked at my clutch and i couldn't believe how fast it has worn. i am almost (.5mm) worn through to rubbing on the springs which i guess is the end of the shoes life?
stock shoes, stock 1mm springs,vspec and about 3 race days and a couple park runs and they're are toast.
will order some 7075 alloy shoes (couple pairs lol) next week i guess.
how long should the stock shoes have lasted?

thank all!
Hi,

The wear on the stock aluminum shoes is normal. Be aware that as soon as the springs touch the clutch bell, you will have lots of clutch slippage and the clutch will overheat (blue colorization of bell, flywheel pins etc.).

A buddy from my track has made very good experience with the Dynamite shoe hop-up: Dynamite Max-life Aluminum Clutch Shoes (3) (DYNP5180).

Enjoy!
Frank
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Old 05-29-2008, 07:58 AM   #1184
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Clutch life all depends on the motor, track, traction, etc. Where I race and how I run I get about 2-1/2 gallons out of the stock Mugen alum clutch setup. I trim the shoes (burrs) about every 1/2 gallon. I replace the bearings evertime I trim them as they are only $1 a piece so I like the piece of mind. I use the Avid RC 5x10mm metal shield bearings. I use my air compressor to hit each bearing in the sleeve of 20 I buy so that most of the grease is out and doesn't get all over my clutch. I have tested them and they have lasted for over 2 gallons but like I said they are cheap enough (just like air filter maintenance).

As for rubber bands, I just use a # 16 rubber band from Staples.com
You get a huge back for cheap and I just wrap it around there a few times.

Best regards,

Tony P.
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Old 05-29-2008, 10:57 AM   #1185
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Quote:
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Yes, there is a difference. The Mugen Super Grease is dark in color (sort of brown). It is very thick and tacky. The joint grease is very thin and a light tan in color. It is used on the CVD pins/barrels.
Best regards,
Hi Tony,

I use O'Donnell's O'Lube (dry wax lubricant) on the CVDs. In addition, I run CVD boots in the rear, to keep the dirt and grit out. Has worked fine so far.

Best regards,
Frank
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