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Old 04-09-2008, 07:24 PM   #976
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try this it will increase torsional flex. make the car more consistent on a dusty loose surface.
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:47 PM   #977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slow coach View Post
never worn out a plastic diff case yet by not shimming diff across in fact still on my original MBX5 Prospec case on one end of my 5R as i only had one new one when i rebuilt up to 5R spec, and only renewed as they were old looking not because they were worn, is this through experience as the case i have in my car is 3+ years old and has seen some usage im confused by this statement and shocked that mugen would design something to essentially destroy itself ?????????????????? can anyone else comment on this perhaps tony from tonys screws i would welcome your comment especially

so concerned i went into shed just now and had a look at my other equally old case totally unshimmed from new still has moulding marks on crown wheel side on both sides of case so i guess i answered my own question really the diffs do NOT rub into the plastic, but i guess it must be true as i read it on here
I am talking about the gears inside the diff case (side gears or spider gears). The manual has a shim washer between the gear and the case. The object here is to keep a spinning gear directly off the plastic case, so they place a wider metal shim washer between the gear and the diff case. Granted, you may not see any issue running without them between the gear and case, but from a design or engineering stand point, it makes sense to to this. I believe every RC manufacturer does this with the diffs.
As for the ring and pinion shims, I place shims there also. I shim them in the case so there is no play on the diff, then move the shims to set the pinion backlash.
On every used Mugen I have own, I find double gaskets. I personally take them out and assemble them as they are supposed to. I have never had a diff leak either. What I do find is some times there is double gasket and alos the diff case has a stripped hole. This is the main reason I find leaking diffs. Either run a longer screw in the case or replace the diff case.
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Old 04-10-2008, 12:35 AM   #978
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My diffs never leaked at the gaskets or o-rings whether I ran one gasket or two gaskets. The key to the diff not leaking at the gaskets is to sand the diff cups smooth (it takes about 20 seconds each and then you don't have to worry about it for gallons upon gallons until you replace the diff cup). Then the key is to use a longer screw. The 3x8mm flat heads are way to short and will not tighten up enough to compress the gasket well enough without stripping the holes in the cup. Use a 3x12mm , 3x14mm or 3x15mm flat head screw and they'll never leak at the gasket.

The reason I use two gaskets is the diff just feels smoother to me. It spaces the ring gear away from the cup the thickness of the compressed gasket and the spyder gears feel silky smooth.

On the outdrives, I use my own Tony's Screws Mugen S5 o-rings and a good synthetic grease (Mugen Super Grease, Mobil 1 synthetic or Maxima synthetic grease all work well).

As for the 6 spyder gears inside the diff cup, you must use the then shims behind the gears otherwise there will be too much play and the diffs will leak at the outdrive o-rings.
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Old 04-10-2008, 01:46 AM   #979
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i build the diffs as per the instructions less the s3 o rings in all the diffs, the shims i was refering to were for adjusting mesh on crown and pinion gears which is the only shimming done on the diffs, how on earth this was perceived as shimming the spider gears above standard washer i dont know as i have never heard of this practise ever but you live and learn, i use silkolene racing grease for the cups and o rings to create a better leak free diff and seems to be ok, will try the sanding idea also, tony interested that you shim the diffs away to make mesh looser and how do you normally decide what is the sweet spot, as i say i have run my buggy with the C/P mesh unshimmed from the box and really had no probs drive has always felt quite free but if i can get it freer then all the better, its not important as i am lucky enough to be able to run 9mins before i need fuel and everyone else is dry by 8 may well try the double gasket route as well at a later date when renewing diff oils. p.s. also use 3x12 screws for the diffs

heres a pic of center diff about 5 mins after losing a cvd pin all the internal gears became extarnal and not one of them were destroyed, after cleaning all the melted plastic off them i have them as a spare emergency set just in case.


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Old 04-10-2008, 01:51 AM   #980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonysScrews View Post
My diffs never leaked at the gaskets or o-rings whether I ran one gasket or two gaskets. The key to the diff not leaking at the gaskets is to sand the diff cups smooth (it takes about 20 seconds each and then you don't have to worry about it for gallons upon gallons until you replace the diff cup). Then the key is to use a longer screw. The 3x8mm flat heads are way to short and will not tighten up enough to compress the gasket well enough without stripping the holes in the cup. Use a 3x12mm , 3x14mm or 3x15mm flat head screw and they'll never leak at the gasket.

The reason I use two gaskets is the diff just feels smoother to me. It spaces the ring gear away from the cup the thickness of the compressed gasket and the spyder gears feel silky smooth.

On the outdrives, I use my own Tony's Screws Mugen S5 o-rings and a good synthetic grease (Mugen Super Grease, Mobil 1 synthetic or Maxima synthetic grease all work well).

As for the 6 spyder gears inside the diff cup, you must use the then shims behind the gears otherwise there will be too much play and the diffs will leak at the outdrive o-rings.
I agree with the diff screws 100%. I have always tossed the 3x8 screws and put longer 3x12 or 15mm screws. You can tighten the ring gear down nice and tight without fearing the case stripping.
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Old 04-10-2008, 03:28 PM   #981
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Hey guys
Does anybody know if there is a titanium option for ballstud(E0817). I am
trying to lose some unsprung weight in the front suspension. Also looking
for aluminum shock stand-offs. Has anyone tried sportwerks tires from a-main
hobbies?
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Old 04-10-2008, 03:34 PM   #982
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Originally Posted by tmperformance1 View Post
try this it will increase torsional flex. make the car more consistent on a dusty loose surface.
I take it there the truggy braces just the rear cut down, I have a set of these and didn't think they would fit.
Thanks for the idea..
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Old 04-10-2008, 07:05 PM   #983
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did anyone not see the pic of the center diff blown apart?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
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Old 04-10-2008, 08:22 PM   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o.s. power View Post
did anyone not see the pic of the center diff blown apart?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?


ya....pretty crazy if u ask me.....but its not Unheard of......strange things happen sometimes. what can ya say.
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Old 04-11-2008, 03:55 AM   #985
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yeah it was a strange one, it was last race of the season and i lost a rear cvd pin with about 5 mins left of the final so i kept at it to try to finish then it destroyed itself some minutes later, as i say the gears are still intact and cleaned up as an emergency set if i should ever need them (not)
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:07 AM   #986
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You will explode a diff if you free spin one of the shafts or axles. It makes the spiders gear take on an extreme amount of load and rpm. This will press the gears against the case and it will start to heat up from the excess rpm applied to the side gears. This happens in real car diffs, like street drag racing with stock diffs and a lot of wheel spinning. It helps if you have thick diff oil, but only to a point.
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Old 04-11-2008, 02:00 PM   #987
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Parts list PDF for the new OS Ninja engine incase you want some part numbers.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf exploded_view_jx21-b01j.pdf (177.0 KB, 141 views)
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Old 04-12-2008, 12:28 AM   #988
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hi ezveedub,

have you ran the new jx21 yet?
need inputs on the new engine..

wondering how it'll compare to the V-Spec (or the OSspeed for tt matter)
similar engines except that the Ninja is basically an OS .21 with a 5port p/s in a .28 crankcase.
even the new Ninja pipe is based on the OS 2060 pipe..

comments anyone?
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Old 04-12-2008, 12:45 AM   #989
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I haven't tried it yet. I'm tied between this motor and a Sirio CL7b STI. I would love to try it and then drop the P/S set into my Speed to see if it works out. I've changed parts in the 367 before, so this is another candidate.
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Old 04-12-2008, 01:20 AM   #990
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i'm in exactly the same predicament as you.
jx21 or cl7b STi..

but since sirio is coming out with the new versions of the STi engines, i'm still holding out..

i'd think tt the new Ninja wld be pretty solid as OS has stepped up the quality of their engines.
i've been offered an excellent price by my LHS who has them in stock.
price diff btw the JX and STi is abt $10.
but i'll have to get a new pipe if i were to get either engine.

3rd choice is the GRP tuned .21, no need to get a new pipe as i oredy have the Ninja FLS pipe..

confused as to what i shld go for.. *sigh*

ps- not sure if you can drop the JX p/s into the Speed crankcase, cos the Ninja is using the OS .28XZ crankcase.
bore and stroke for the JX same as V-Spec?
if it's the same then shouldn't be a prob i guess..

what i'm wondering is why Ninja is using the .28XZ crankcase instead of V-Spec..
cos the .28 is 5ports?
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