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Old 04-03-2008, 09:11 AM   #961
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How to you find the p5xs i have just put one in mine and havent purchased a ne wpipe yet so running novarossi p5xs has just been broken in i find it has extreme low end. so re did clutch setup to suit.

as for glow plugs my stock one went during break in and i was recommened to use RB. NO6 and it runs fine with it was also handy for me as i have a rb engine on backup now so have good number glowplugs for it.
hope this helps.
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:21 PM   #962
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I found the power of the p5xs to be good, it has good low-end power and
good top-end, but what I really seem to like about it is it's smoothness. It
seems to have a very flat power curve,but I really could'nt tell for sure
because I was babying the engine through all the races by running it very
rich, being that I just broke it in the day prior with nine tanks of fuel and the
piston was still getting stuck at tdc. I had to take my heat gun to the track
with me! By the end of the day it had loosen up. I think I'll order some #6
medium standard novarossi glowplugs from A-main hobbies. The next race
I'll race tune the engine and I'll be able tell for sure how it runs. THANKS
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Old 04-05-2008, 10:23 AM   #963
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have any try to put the shocks from an 8ight in a mbx5r?i have a pair and i plan to them in my prospec.but they are a lot smaller...what i most to do?
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Old 04-05-2008, 01:10 PM   #964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
have any try to put the shocks from an 8ight in a mbx5r?i have a pair and i plan to them in my prospec.but they are a lot smaller...what i most to do?

i doubt the 8ight shocks will work on an 8ight....the shaft length difference is way too big imo....Jammin BB's are alot closer to proper length.
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Old 04-05-2008, 04:02 PM   #965
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Heya well think u made a small typo ....

as for the losi shocks on the mugen i havent tryed it myself but no a guy a guy that has a due to the fact he is selling his buggy just after spending money buying and fitting them i doubt they worked well.
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Old 04-05-2008, 08:26 PM   #966
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Default Carbon Stone Guards

Hi,


Could any tell me if the carbon stone guards 4 the MBX 5 fit the MBX5-R or r they different.And if any 1 could tell me where 2 get them from 4 the R..

THANKS.....
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Old 04-05-2008, 09:34 PM   #967
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You dont want them, they are crap!

http://www.users.on.net/~danzig/CF.jpg

Mugen MBX5R
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Old 04-05-2008, 09:57 PM   #968
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You dont want them, they are crap!

http://www.users.on.net/~danzig/CF.jpg

Mugen MBX5R


Thanks FrankBlack

I"ll save my money.. Thanks again
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Old 04-08-2008, 02:51 PM   #969
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read on here you guys shim diffs, tbh i have never done this and never had any probs by not doing it either but what advantages would i gain from placing 1-2 shims in the diffs just wondering as manual never actually suggested how many or if any are actually needed more of a there they are see what you think
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:53 PM   #970
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The shims placed behind the diff gears is for the gears not to rub into the plastic diff case. Placing two shims behind the gears brings the gears closer with a tighter mesh, but IMO, if you need to do that, your gears are worn.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:53 AM   #971
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Has anyone tried the old standard tension rods that came on the MBX5, not the billet alloy ones. just been hereing lately that a few losi guys have not been running the rear chassis brace and Associated and Kyosho use the ball link type. Reason I ask is, have been running on a smooth slick track and can't get the grip i wan't, tried quite a few things like different shock configs, castor, camber, tires, any suggestions would be sweet.
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P.S. if Mick Dahl is online, would you have any tips for the 08 Aus Nats track eh...
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:38 AM   #972
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I've tried the stock MBX5 chassis braces on a slick track, only to have my body crack and break. There is alot of fore-aft flex as well as side to side with these braces. I ended up in the same situation as you (limited grip). I ended up keeping the stock rear (turnbuckle style) and returning to the alloy front brace. This seemed to be better. Also, limiting droop is a HUGE source of getting the grip back. I dropped the front quite a bit and kept the rear where it was and it was perfect. running 5,7,3, 35front 30rear shocks.
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Old 04-09-2008, 05:37 PM   #973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
The shims placed behind the diff gears is for the gears not to rub into the plastic diff case. Placing two shims behind the gears brings the gears closer with a tighter mesh, but IMO, if you need to do that, your gears are worn.
never worn out a plastic diff case yet by not shimming diff across in fact still on my original MBX5 Prospec case on one end of my 5R as i only had one new one when i rebuilt up to 5R spec, and only renewed as they were old looking not because they were worn, is this through experience as the case i have in my car is 3+ years old and has seen some usage im confused by this statement and shocked that mugen would design something to essentially destroy itself ?????????????????? can anyone else comment on this perhaps tony from tonys screws i would welcome your comment especially

so concerned i went into shed just now and had a look at my other equally old case totally unshimmed from new still has moulding marks on crown wheel side on both sides of case so i guess i answered my own question really the diffs do NOT rub into the plastic, but i guess it must be true as i read it on here
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Last edited by slow coach; 04-09-2008 at 05:43 PM. Reason: went and had a look at old case
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:13 PM   #974
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i think maybe he was talking about the big shims that go between the outdrive bearing and the inside of the gearcase housing to adjust the gearmesh of the ring and pinion gear maybe not sure inside the diff i use shims just what it calls for in the manual
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:17 PM   #975
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The large 15.9mm diameter shims that come with the Mugen MBX5/R/T kits is only used between the 8x16mm bearings and the diff case to adjust the ring and pinion gear mesh. It is very rare that the diff has any slop in teh diff case that you would need a shim to take up this slop. The shims basically force the ring gear away or towards the pinion gear so that the mesh is smoother. On the old MBX5 and MBX5 ProSpec, most guys had to use two shims on the cup side to loosen up the mesh. On the MBX5T they typically don't need to be shimmed (at least all the kits I've seen and built). Please note that if you use double gaskets on your diffs, the ring gear gets pushed awy the thickness of the compressed extra gasket and the entire diff is that much wider too. I switched from one gasket to two gaskets and haven't used the shims since.

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