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Old 03-03-2008, 10:19 PM   #871
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Tony,

Do you make a lightened screw kit for the MBX5R? Basically, all the screws that you feel should be replaced with lighter aluminum? Also, for those washers you use on your screws that go into carbon fiber like the front brace, where do you order those from or have a name for them so i can search?


I got some sets of the rear carriers in plastic still, will see about going back to them, not sure how much weight difference I will see though. Anyone got a scale and can measure for sure?
Hi Cain,

No, Sorry I don't have a lightened screw kit. All of the screws I sell are Grade 12.9 alloy steel and the locknuts are zinc-plated steel. The aluminum countersunk washers are made by Dynamite. They also make the aluminum screws and locknuts. I have the scale but sold all my alum rear hubs so I can;t weigh them...LOL
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Old 03-05-2008, 01:57 PM   #872
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Anyone use the Mugen Carbon fiber stone gaurds? I know there kind of expensive but they look nice...
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Old 03-05-2008, 05:32 PM   #873
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I would not run the CF stone guards if you payed me to.

They're expensive and they break rather than bend. You get a hit to the side, the stock ones will bend, absorb some of the impact and return to shape. The CF ones will crack and there goes your cash.
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:09 PM   #874
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Yes i run CF stone gaurds and they crack if you get T-Boned believe me.
Probably put the plastic ones back on soon but i dont want too cause they look so kewl :]

I have cracks in both of mine already if that answers your question.

heres a picture of what happens : http://www.users.on.net/~danzig/CF.jpg

Hey Brad, look im slack i still havnt cleaned it after last time i raced it, bad Gen, unlike me to let it stay dirty, can useually eat off it.
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Old 03-05-2008, 11:27 PM   #875
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Mine is looking the same too, haven't cleaned it since the last time I raced. I really need to put a tank through it next week to keep it fresh.
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Old 03-06-2008, 05:57 PM   #876
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hey tony's screws

i was wondering if you ever race at checkerboard in new jersey or family hobbies ? i am new to 1/8th scale i have only raced a couple of times i mostly run gas truck and 2wd buggy anyways my question is what is a good setup for the mbx5r i have raced the car a couple of times i like it a lot but don't know much about setups and was hoping maybe you could help me thanks
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:23 PM   #877
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hey tony's screws

i was wondering if you ever race at checkerboard in new jersey or family hobbies ? i am new to 1/8th scale i have only raced a couple of times i mostly run gas truck and 2wd buggy anyways my question is what is a good setup for the mbx5r i have raced the car a couple of times i like it a lot but don't know much about setups and was hoping maybe you could help me thanks
I've raced at Checkerboards in 2005 and 2006 for their Turkey Race. Last year it rained so I stayed in. Email me at tony@tony1034.com and I'll shoot you over a setup sheet.

Best regards,
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Old 03-11-2008, 07:18 PM   #878
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Can anyone explain what a longer or shorter steering link does to handling of the x5r?
thanks.
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Old 03-11-2008, 07:43 PM   #879
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Changing the length of the steering links changes the toe setting of the front of the car, thats pretty much all it does.
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:44 AM   #880
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Hey Frank are you going to run the 5R / GRP combo at the Australian Nats?

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Old 03-12-2008, 07:43 AM   #881
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Changing the length of the steering links changes the toe setting of the front of the car, thats pretty much all it does.
Actually, longer or shorter steering links will affect the turning and bumpsteer. Short links have more angle changes when the suspension moves up and down, which increases bumpsteer. So yes it affects toe, but the shorter and longer links will have different toe angles when moving the suspension up and down. Elevating the outer link on the MBX5r and limiting some droop will make the steering more consistent when going over bumps, almost eliminating bumpsteer.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:05 AM   #882
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Good explanation ezveedub.....i was thinkin of a Easy way to explain it...and u did JUST that.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:57 AM   #883
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Thanks for the info on the steering links guys, I was actually talking about the link between the servo horn and the bell crank.

while we're on the bumpsteer subject though, does anyone know where I can buy ballstuds for the 5R that are taller to reduce some of the increased toe out at full extension without limiting the droop. thanks.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:34 AM   #884
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Thanks for the info on the steering links guys, I was actually talking about the link between the servo horn and the bell crank.

while we're on the bumpsteer subject though, does anyone know where I can buy ballstuds for the 5R that are taller to reduce some of the increased toe out at full extension without limiting the droop. thanks.


washer's under the ball would do the same i think....and as for the servo linkage arm....u want to adjust that so that its 90degrees then make sure the steering rack is the same...everything should be level and 90degree;s to each other.......thats not the greatest explanation...pics would do wonder's...but my USB ports are on the fritz and wont recognize my cam...maby ezveedub can chime in with some Insight.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:58 AM   #885
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Originally Posted by thewholeyearinn View Post
Thanks for the info on the steering links guys, I was actually talking about the link between the servo horn and the bell crank.

while we're on the bumpsteer subject though, does anyone know where I can buy ballstuds for the 5R that are taller to reduce some of the increased toe out at full extension without limiting the droop. thanks.
Either use the washers, or do like i did. I grabbed a RC8 steering ball link end and ball stud. The ball studs are elevated and the ball end links are needed since its a slightly smaller ball. The threading is the same diameter. As for the washers, you can use Schumacher washers. They come with 3mm inner diameter in 0.5,1,2 & 3mm thickness.

Here's the washer link:
http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/produ...ecnumber=47277
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