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Old 03-03-2008, 05:51 AM   #856
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Can anyone tell me what's the size of the inner hole on the brake disks Or the size of the center diff cups.?
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Old 03-03-2008, 09:42 AM   #857
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So in general, what are the parts that people are replacing on the MBX5R's to lighten it up?

I am looking to probably go back to the plastic rear carriers to start, and possibly these pivot balls, depending on what you guys think about there durability:

http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/...idproduct=5038
Anyone have thoughts on the pivot balls on the URL I listed? I am looking to purchase these, but don't want them to be 1 run wonders.
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:09 PM   #858
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I have those pillowballs and they work great. If you need more proof, Sportwerks has had a similar design for years and I have never heard of wear issues on theirs either. I did notice the front of the car goes through bumps better with the lighter pillowballs.

Carbon shock towers would be another way to save some weight but my experience has been that the camber link likes to rip out of carbon towers on other cars. I have never seen any for the 5R either.

You can run the stock thin body and if you put some reinforcement into the front behind the body mount where they tend to split and to the left of the engine they will last a while if you do not crash a lot. I've never weighed pipes, but I think the OS and Ofnas are quite a bit heavier than say a true Novarossi pipe. A 2/3A receiver pack or Lipo pack will also save weight vs a AA pack.

The only other way I know to significantly lighten the car is to buy the Titanium screw kits Mugen sells. They are pricy but the weight savings is enough to change the car's handling. The screw kits come with instructions telling you which screws to leave stock for strength. Make sure to follow those directions.

One thing I forgot is that tires can also be heavy. Proline tend to be heavier than GRP or Werks and the PL grey foam is quite a bit heavier than the GRP molded or Proline white foam. I find Bowties work really well on this car though so I usually just accept the weight penalty vs a GRP Atomic. I have not tried the Werks Lugs but they work really well on the truggy and are light so those might be a lightweight option.
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Old 03-03-2008, 03:15 PM   #859
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Cain is running a Brushless/LiPo MBX5R conversion so no worries on the exhaust pipe....LOL

Those pillow balls work fine that you linked to. Less unsprung weight means better rough track handling and better traction. If you go with the Titanium screw set, only use the upper set and only install them in low-stress areas. Personally, I like to use Grade 12.9 alloy steel everywhere strength is needed and then use lighter and cheaper aluminum screws in low-stress areas. Plus you can get the aluminum screws in anodized colors (blue, red, purple, gold or plain aluminum color). Also you can get aluminum lock-nuts.

Chassis braces from KingHeadz are lighter than the ProSpec pieces. I use the old turnbuckle style ones as they allow for more flex and better rough track handling. They are lighter than the ProSpec pieces but not as light as the KingHeadz ones. I also use the rear plastic uprights. The drive-train is one of the heaviest parts on the Mugen, but also the reason why it is the most durable. You can lighten up some of it if you know a good machinist. Some guys have ran the Titanium outdrives and CVD's, but they wear very quick and are very pricey (not worth it for me and I'm very anal about weight...LOL ). I do use stock foams and lightweight rims. Molded foams are very heavy and it's all reciprocating mass.

Best regards,
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Old 03-03-2008, 03:57 PM   #860
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Tony where would you suggest it would okay to use the aluminum screw?
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Old 03-03-2008, 04:07 PM   #861
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Can you use the TT pivot balls on the 5R? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2599 Im not really fussed on weight, just price and durability.
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Old 03-03-2008, 04:40 PM   #862
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Hi,

Has anybody ever noticed the huge play of the diffs in the diff cases of the MBX5R?

I had to use two of the 13.5x15.9x0.2 washers in front of the outdrive ball bearings in each diff case, to stop the diff from moving left and right. That took care of the bevel gear backlash, too.

But still, one side of the diff case does _not_ fully lock in the diff outdrive ball bearing; so there still is movement of the diff up and down, and forward and backward

Thanks for your feedback,
Frank
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Originally Posted by Jeff Ford View Post
Case could be worn in the area that the bearing sits or can just need shimming. The truck ring and pinion gears need to be shimmed tighter backlash than "R" ring and pinion gears. I have shimmed behind the pinion to moove it also.
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Originally Posted by ezveedub View Post
You have to shim the diffs on both bearings in the case so its snug, on top of moving shims from one side to the other to make the ring/pinion mash tight enough without any play. I haven't had to shim under the pinion yet, and if I did, I would replace the ring and pinions.
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Hi Frank,

Yes, the diff needs to be shimmed using the large shims included in the kit. If you use one diff gasket, they typically take 2-3 shims. But if you use two diff gaskets the diff is wider by the thickness of the extra gasket so you end up using no shims or maybe one.

Best regards,

Tony P.
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Originally Posted by OBMIT View Post
When i first built my 5R all was tight. I rebuilt the diffs over the weekend and had to do some small amount of shimming. (...).

Tim
Hi Guys,

The genuine Mugen gear case shims (13.5x15.9x0.2mm) are available only as part of an expensive "washer set".

I found a few other shims at A Main Hobbies and Tower Hobbies, but they seem to be of different size:
Associated 16x13x0.2mm #89117

HPI 13x16x0.2mm (Hellfire) #86598

OFNA 13x16x0.2mm (Jammin X1) #40024

Team Magic 13.2x15.9x0.22mm #130101

Kyosho 13x16xthinmm/13x16xthickmm (MP777) #BS53

Thunder Tiger ?x?x0.2mm (EB4 S3 buggy) #PD1896
Does anybody know whether after-market shims work well with the R?

Thanks for your feedback,
Frank

Last edited by Starter box; 03-05-2008 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:13 PM   #863
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Can someone explain to me what pitch the stock mbx5 spur gear is? I am looking or a 5mm pinion gear or an electric motor and dont understand the pitch is it 32 or module 1 or what???????
PLEASE ENLIGHTEN ME...
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:23 PM   #864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vti-chris View Post
Can anyone tell me what's the size of the inner hole on the brake disks Or the size of the center diff cups.?
10mm in the outdrive cup
10.2mm on the Brake rotor

Checked with calipers.
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:46 PM   #865
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Originally Posted by turb06le240 View Post
Can someone explain to me what pitch the stock mbx5 spur gear is? I am looking or a 5mm pinion gear or an electric motor and dont understand the pitch is it 32 or module 1 or what???????
PLEASE ENLIGHTEN ME...
http://mdmetric.com/tech/modulegeardata.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Gear_words.png
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear

The circular pitch on my Spur gear is roughly 3.1mm
It should be module 1
The module is the ratio of the pitch diameter to the number of teeth.
Span measurement over 4 teeth is 10.8mm

You may want to ask an engineer about this IMO, cause the pinion will have to match the spur.

If you have vernier calipers you can check this at the hobby shop against their gears.

Best bet is check it against a spur gear from your local Hobby shop and check the mesh is correct.
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Last edited by GenReaper; 03-03-2008 at 07:31 PM.
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Old 03-03-2008, 07:41 PM   #866
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Originally Posted by TonysScrews View Post
Cain is running a Brushless/LiPo MBX5R conversion so no worries on the exhaust pipe....LOL

Those pillow balls work fine that you linked to. Less unsprung weight means better rough track handling and better traction. If you go with the Titanium screw set, only use the upper set and only install them in low-stress areas. Personally, I like to use Grade 12.9 alloy steel everywhere strength is needed and then use lighter and cheaper aluminum screws in low-stress areas. Plus you can get the aluminum screws in anodized colors (blue, red, purple, gold or plain aluminum color). Also you can get aluminum lock-nuts.

Chassis braces from KingHeadz are lighter than the ProSpec pieces. I use the old turnbuckle style ones as they allow for more flex and better rough track handling. They are lighter than the ProSpec pieces but not as light as the KingHeadz ones. I also use the rear plastic uprights. The drive-train is one of the heaviest parts on the Mugen, but also the reason why it is the most durable. You can lighten up some of it if you know a good machinist. Some guys have ran the Titanium outdrives and CVD's, but they wear very quick and are very pricey (not worth it for me and I'm very anal about weight...LOL ). I do use stock foams and lightweight rims. Molded foams are very heavy and it's all reciprocating mass.

Best regards,

Tony,

Do you make a lightened screw kit for the MBX5R? Basically, all the screws that you feel should be replaced with lighter aluminum? Also, for those washers you use on your screws that go into carbon fiber like the front brace, where do you order those from or have a name for them so i can search?


I got some sets of the rear carriers in plastic still, will see about going back to them, not sure how much weight difference I will see though. Anyone got a scale and can measure for sure?
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:12 PM   #867
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Quote:
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Anyone have thoughts on the pivot balls on the URL I listed? I am looking to purchase these, but don't want them to be 1 run wonders.
I run them in my car and they take a beating dont worry they are strong.
If you dont believe me watch me car half way thru this video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sCzU2lamAQ
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Old 03-03-2008, 08:13 PM   #868
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Thanks for the info!
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Old 03-03-2008, 10:13 PM   #869
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Originally Posted by slaytanic View Post
Tony where would you suggest it would okay to use the aluminum screw?
Top of the radio tray, PT mount, upper tank mount, fuel filter mount, body mounts, the four 3x8mm flat heads that hold the center diff top plate, back of the wing mount and all of the locknuts.

Don't use titanium hinge pins to save weight. They are lighter, but the 3mm ones on the rear hubs will bend like a pretzel and the 4mm ones will wear out the arms quicker. The 4mm ones will eventually bend too. The aluminum sway bar mounts posted back a few posts are lighter than the stock steel ones. If you can find titanium ball studs and balls they are lighter too and save more weight than a typical screw.

I see no reason to run the alum rear hubs other than bling...LOL The plastic ones are lighter and hold up for gallons upon gallons. Also they are easier on the rear axle bearings.

Biggest weight savings is using a small, light-weight LiPo Rx pack. Most stock cooling heads are lighter than aftermarket ones that are supposed to cool more. If you have trouble overheating, then your tune is off, you're using the wrong glow plug or the wrong fuel. There is also a huge weight difference in pipes and headers. I've never ran any of the light-weight chassis's out there so I can't comment on them. One-piece motor mounts are heavier than the stock two piece units, but offer more rigidity. If you look at Savoya's crazy light-weight 5R, you'll see he runs the stock mounts. Wings vary quite a bit in weight as do bodies and the paint job.

Some of the weight savings is worth it, but a lot of it is just money spent that won't make most guys any faster than spending that money on track time

Best regards,
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Old 03-03-2008, 10:15 PM   #870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turb06le240 View Post
Can someone explain to me what pitch the stock mbx5 spur gear is? I am looking or a 5mm pinion gear or an electric motor and dont understand the pitch is it 32 or module 1 or what???????
PLEASE ENLIGHTEN ME...
They are mod1 pitch. I run a brushless/LiPo MBX5R and use the Mod1 5mm motor shaft pinions from Century. RC Monster also sells some hardened Mod1 pitch pinions for a 5mm motor shaft.

Best regards,
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