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Old 02-28-2008, 07:51 AM   #841
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Hey guys

is that a tony screws sticker i see in the top left....

Tim
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Old 02-28-2008, 04:28 PM   #842
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i doubled up on the diff seals and used green slime on my o rings and i havent had any leaks that i can see. i did have 1 screw in the center diff get loose but i just went longer on them all...thats after a full season. only down side is for all the ware ability on a mugen drive train it is heavy.
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Old 02-29-2008, 09:06 AM   #843
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Tony,

Do you have any tips on what the best way is, to find the thread in an already cut screw hole in a plastic part?

I usually put the screw on top of the hole and gently screw counter-clockwise until the screw slightly pops out and immediately falls back into the thread in the hole, then screw clockwise to catch that thread and screw it all the way in. Usually works great, but once in a while, depending on how good or bad the end of the screw is maschined (cut), it is difficult to find the thread, even with the method described.

Thanks in advance for your feedback,
Frank

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Frank,

I posted on the other thread but I'll post here too. Grab a 2.5mm drill bit (3/32" will do) and using a cordless drill, run the the bit in and out of each diff cup hole SLOWLY. This will ensure it is the proper size (and clear) for the longer 3mm screw. I haven't had to do this on any of my diff cups, but since this stuff is molded plastic, you can always have a cup that isn't perfect.

Best regards,
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Old 02-29-2008, 09:19 AM   #844
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Hi Frank,

They usually just go right in for me. If you have good quality tools the screw will pop onto the wrench tight and then you can hold the driver straight and thread the screw right in.

Best regards.
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Old 02-29-2008, 09:42 PM   #845
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Racer's Edge made them...I have 'em on my buggy.

I would check the obvious places: CarolinasRC, Amain, Tiltyard, Speedtech, etc., etc.
I checked these to no avail..still looking..anybody have some more suggestions on where could locate these parts.. again its the f/r swaybar stops...Iam looking for the aluminum parts
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Old 03-01-2008, 12:02 AM   #846
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is this what u are after?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2545

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4110
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Old 03-01-2008, 05:11 AM   #847
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So in general, what are the parts that people are replacing on the MBX5R's to lighten it up?

I am looking to probably go back to the plastic rear carriers to start, and possibly these pivot balls, depending on what you guys think about there durability:

http://www.carolinasrc.com/webstore/...idproduct=5038
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Old 03-01-2008, 08:03 AM   #848
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No, those arent them.... Its the plastic peices on both of the diff. boxes f/r that the sway bar goes behind...Then set in place w/ a set screw and flat screw F/R..
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Old 03-01-2008, 08:13 AM   #849
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These but aluminum

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/1818
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Old 03-01-2008, 08:34 PM   #850
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Anyone still run the WERKS clutch with any success?
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:32 AM   #851
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Hi,

Has anybody ever noticed the huge play of the diffs in the diff cases of the MBX5R?

I had to use two of the 13.5x15.9x0.2 washers in front of the outdrive ball bearings in each diff case, to stop the diff from moving left and right. That took care of the bevel gear backlash, too.

But still, one side of the diff case does _not_ fully lock in the diff outdrive ball bearing; so there still is movement of the diff up and down, and forward and backward

Thanks for your feedback,
Frank
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:57 AM   #852
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Case could be worn in the area that the bearing sits or can just need shimming. The truck ring and pinion gears need to be shimmed tighter backlash than "R" ring and pinion gears. I have shimmed behind the pinion to moove it also.
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Old 03-02-2008, 11:45 AM   #853
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You have to shim the diffs on both bearings in the case so its snug, on top of moving shims from one side to the other to make the ring/pinion mash tight enough without any play. I haven't had to shim under the pinion yet, and if I did, I would replace the ring and pinions.
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Old 03-02-2008, 12:05 PM   #854
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Case could be worn in the area that the bearing sits or can just need shimming. The truck ring and pinion gears need to be shimmed tighter backlash than "R" ring and pinion gears. I have shimmed behind the pinion to moove it also.
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You have to shim the diffs on both bearings in the case so its snug, on top of moving shims from one side to the other to make the ring/pinion mash tight enough without any play. I haven't had to shim under the pinion yet, and if I did, I would replace the ring and pinions.
Quote:
Hi Frank,

Yes, the diff needs to be shimmed using the large shims included in the kit. If you use one diff gasket, they typically take 2-3 shims. But if you use two diff gaskets the diff is wider by the thickness of the extra gasket so you end up using no shims or maybe one.

Best regards,

Tony P.
Hi Guys,

Thanks a lot for your feedback! Put it together accordingly and looks good.

Best regards,
Frank

Last edited by Starter box; 03-02-2008 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:29 PM   #855
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When i first built my 5R all was tight. I rebuilt the diffs over the weekend and had to do some small amount of shimming.

I love my 5r, had another podium on friday night.

RC8 clutch worked without issues.


http://www.ocrraceway.com/2008%20Results/290208.html





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