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Old 02-13-2008, 02:06 PM   #796
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To clarify, the ball never pulled out. Its just a hairline crack, maybe 1/8 - 1/4 of an inch long. Looking from a top down prespective, it starts from where the pivot ball threads in, and goes in from there, at a slight angle towards the center of the arm.

I'll take a pic when i replace the arm. Its still all nice and snug though.
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Old 02-13-2008, 02:59 PM   #797
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ive had it happen, but it was a good while ago, and it was a standard 5 arm
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Old 02-13-2008, 06:15 PM   #798
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i had an arm break at the pillow ball joint while i was running in the engine in my new mbx5r. I didnt even stack just landed sideways of a jump. I have since replaced the arm and had some very big stacks and it has not broken since. I heard there was a bad batch in the new kits when they first came out.
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Old 02-13-2008, 06:41 PM   #799
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yes, that is the MRT ninja, i have one.
I do have a question about that engine, has anyone had any trouble with the clutch bell not lining up with the spur gear. My CB is pushed sooo far onto the spur, it is making marks on the part of the CB that covers the clutch shoes. My flywheel isnt even centered, it almost hits the chassis on the spur gear side.

Here is a pic

I am using a mugen 13t cb and either a fioroni or mugen clutch

thanks
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Old 02-13-2008, 07:30 PM   #800
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Did you happen to use a shim behind the collet? If so, that may be causing the Flywheel and clutch to be placed too far forward.
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Old 02-13-2008, 07:37 PM   #801
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Fioroni's require a special shorty collet....and they dont supply them with the flywheel's....but u can also shave down a stock 1 and get it to work...and like rezenclowd3 said...if ur running a shim behind the collet...Ditch it...then it should be a little more inline with the chassy cut out.
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Old 02-13-2008, 09:02 PM   #802
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yes, i am actually running 2 shims because if i don't, the flywheel nut wont tighten (and i have tried the nut both ways). Also, like i mentioned before, this also happens with the stock mugen clutch assembly.
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Old 02-13-2008, 09:28 PM   #803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pat656 View Post
yes, i am actually running 2 shims because if i don't, the flywheel nut wont tighten (and i have tried the nut both ways). Also, like i mentioned before, this also happens with the stock mugen clutch assembly.
You should never have to run 2 shims. Like Integra said, you most likely need the appropriate collet, or to shorten the one you have.
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Old 02-13-2008, 09:42 PM   #804
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Dont feel bad about it i have the same problem.
I filed my collet down which cetralised the flywheel but couldnt tighten the nut also, so i had to put shims behind the flywheel nut to compensate, therefore putting sideways load on the clutch springs, not much but i got away with it.
My clutch bell is right on the edge of the spur gear also "Mugen 13t" but i does not cause me any problem, and the flywheel wont hit the chasis causing the motor to stop after a nose down landing.

The only way i see out of it is to get a dremel and grind some thread out of the inside of the flywheel lock nut from the bottom side so it can fit over the shank of the crank, drawback is there will be less thread on the crank to hold your flywheel but enough that if you use locktite it will hold.

Or grind the crank at the end of the thread where the shank starts to reduce its radius allowing the flywheel nut to screw down.

If you find a fix other than what ive suggested post it up cause although mine works great its not realy how i wanted it.

LoL, i better wash my car, im geting slack.

The good thing about this is i have two spare motors and will be putting the O.S back in before next race so it wont be an issue.

rezenclowd3, i realy dont think you understand the problem its not as simple as that, there is not enough thread on the crank when you move the assembly backwards toward the motor.

PS : That is a standard Mugen Flywheel.


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Last edited by GenReaper; 02-13-2008 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 02-13-2008, 09:58 PM   #805
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Looking at a friends Mugen, he runs the Ninja in both his buggy and truggy, and his setup looks fine. However he also had trouble with the new Fiorioni clutch which he bought this past week, as he could not tighten the flywheel as needed. He did not have the Fiorioni collet.
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Old 02-13-2008, 10:04 PM   #806
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The only other way i can think out of the situation is to redrill your engine mount screws back and tap them moving the motor backwards on the car.
rezenclowd3 i use the Mugen clutch setup and flywheel and STILL have the same problem, figure that out, cause it aint the clutch or flywheel its the cranks thread length IMO.
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Old 02-13-2008, 10:49 PM   #807
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Hmm, I dunno then. I've never had a problem, but thats not saying much, as I have only owned the Losi 8ight. Damn I love the Mugen though...
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Old 02-14-2008, 03:04 AM   #808
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i experienced a similar problem with not being able to tighten the flywheel nut i was using mugen flywheel mugen collet and RBws711 engine i ended up flicking through my manual looking for a solution and in the mugen manual it showed a picture of adding 2 shims before the collet so i did that and worked fine. then as for the clutch bell sitting to far forward simply on-stead of shimming behind it i shimmed in-front of it so that was the problem sorted for me anyway.
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Old 02-14-2008, 06:22 AM   #809
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any misaligement on the bell and flywheel is either too much shimming or not the proper collet for the flywheel....there's NO way a Mugen flywheel on a Ninja isnt gonna work....are u still running the stock motor mount ?...u sure i didnt flip it around or something ? ive ran the fioroni on Ninja's RB's STS's, picco's...the Whole fleet and never once had a Unfixale issue with the flywheel or bell....It just takes some creative shimming in the Right places.
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Old 02-14-2008, 02:02 PM   #810
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On the 5R front arm issue, I found the first run of front 5r arms were pretty brittle on the pillowball end when the weather was cold. They would last okay in warm weather though. Pillowballs would pull out and/or that part of the arm would break off.

In May/June Mugen got new arms in that fixed this problem. You can tell the arms apart because the newer ones are about 1mm thicker at the pillowball and there is extra material underneath and behind where the swaybar mounts on the arm. These newer arms are bombproof.
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