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Old 01-21-2008, 09:13 PM   #721
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Ryan


That new body for Ms skelton looks sweet. Welodone.
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Old 01-23-2008, 02:26 PM   #722
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hey guys, i have my mbx5r for sale if anyones interested, heres the thread"

FS: MUGEN MBX5R
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:23 PM   #723
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Im having a small issue with my 5r. I dail my car in via the hudy bench, i get it perfect then i notice on the front end on one side both the camber pivot ball and the steering link are 5mm longer than the other side, a huge difference but hudy is telling me its teh exact same camber and toe out on each side The ackerman is perfectly centred aswell when on the hudy. The track width is dailed in, 138mm each side from the centre of the chassis and the amount of thread visable from the pivot balls is the same like it should be. Only thing i can think of is maybe cause there is more weight on one side of the car than the other the shocks aren't compensating and doing this, is this normal?

Last edited by FrankBlack; 01-23-2008 at 10:38 PM.
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Old 01-24-2008, 12:06 AM   #724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankBlack View Post
Im having a small issue with my 5r. I dail my car in via the hudy bench, i get it perfect then i notice on the front end on one side both the camber pivot ball and the steering link are 5mm longer than the other side, a huge difference but hudy is telling me its teh exact same camber and toe out on each side The ackerman is perfectly centred aswell when on the hudy. The track width is dailed in, 138mm each side from the centre of the chassis and the amount of thread visable from the pivot balls is the same like it should be. Only thing i can think of is maybe cause there is more weight on one side of the car than the other the shocks aren't compensating and doing this, is this normal?
The method i use is as follows

Set my bottom pivot balls to the same amount of threads or width , and then when i set camber i make sure the side you are setting is always set to 0 degrees toe in on the set-up station , then proceed to set the camber for that side using the top pivot , repeat for both sides then adjust toe-out Last making sure Akerman arm is centred . when you move the steering off centre it starts to alter Camber drastically i think this might be your problem
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Old 01-24-2008, 02:44 AM   #725
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With the subject of gearing being hot. I had thought about running the truggy diffs and the high tooth clutch bell awhile back in my 5R when i got my RC8. because I thought the purpose behind it and it seems to work for both associated and losi is the higher internal ratio of the diffs= fast spinning mass= at low speeds like when going through corner then accelerating, because the diffs are spinning faster it takes less torque to spin them up= faster acceleration.
correct me if im wrong but like i said it seems to work for the US cars. This increase in snap just can't be produced by an engine.
Or is it a Losi or Associated are lighter than a 5r, why they accelerate harder.
I bought the rc8 as an intrim car to see what it will be like to have a lighter more responsive car. I hope Mugen do there R&D well and take a few hints from there US opponents because, downunder the tracks are getting bigger jumps and lets face it double single sucks(safe) we want to triple(go big).....
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Old 01-24-2008, 08:38 AM   #726
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make sure both front arms are 5r arms. if one is a mbx5 arm it is shorter.
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Old 01-24-2008, 10:18 AM   #727
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I'm not sure I agree with the Losi and RC8 having better acceleration than the Mugen. I still have trouble following Losi cars on the track because they exit corners so slow. Maybe they accelerate better in a straight line but with the Mugen you can accelerate earlier exiting the corner which seems more important than just overall accel rates.
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:03 AM   #728
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When running my mugen against the competition at the last big race, I didnt' feel like I was being out cornered and all by the rc8's and losi's. With the MBX5R front end I put on to my MBX5, I was able to corner inside my share of losi's, RC8s, jammins, etc. I think it almost had too much steering at times.

The thing that I liked better on the other vehicles and this coudl be due to my current shock setup was the way they sucked up the rythm section better than me. Also, off of really really big jumps, they landed more plush if they missed the down landing.
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Old 01-25-2008, 12:56 AM   #729
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windellmc, you makin the trip to the atl?
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Old 01-25-2008, 07:11 AM   #730
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No trip to Atl for me. The 24hr qualifying would mess me up, and I think I will wait and see how this year goes. I am planning on running the RC Pro race at HX Raceway in April.
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Old 01-27-2008, 02:57 PM   #731
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Somebody mentioned an MBX6, is that fact of fiction. Need a new car soon and am trying to decide which direction to go.
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Old 01-27-2008, 03:13 PM   #732
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New Car = Fact
MBX6 = who knows but probably
Release = thats the unknown but later in year some time is the guesses
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:33 PM   #733
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Setup Problem.
I got to race yesterday for the first time and i have a few problems with oversteering on-power and understeering off-power.

I currently run 10-10-3 diff oils with 35wt shock oil in all four corners.
I use the 3 degree rear toe in and 0.5 front toe out.
3 degrees rear camber and 2 degrees front.

The car also seemed to be jumping with nose up most of the time.

I'm thinking in going to 7-5-1 in diff oils and lay the wing down and forward to minimize downforce and alter weight balance.
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Old 01-28-2008, 12:51 AM   #734
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Im running close the same as you cept for the diffs, 5/7/2 im running and the car is awesome, even on low traction surface
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Old 01-28-2008, 08:07 AM   #735
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Has anyone put any super bore sized shocks on there buggies yet? I am willing to spend the time and money to see if the car can benefit from a larger volume shock. I just wanted to know which shocks can be put on the buggy and have the least amount of hassle. I am looking at either buying kyosho or jammin shocks simply because replacement parts are readily available. I am not sure which shock would be close to the mugens as far as shock length. Anybody have any feedback.
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