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Old 01-17-2008, 02:36 PM   #691
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Tip:

When setting up for "full droop" make sure you still use the droop screw to help prolong the life of the shock cap....

To set the full droop allow the wheels to fully extend and then thread the droop screw in until you notice the arm moving up...stop. This is full droop and will keep the uppoer shock mount hole from elongating.

With this said, even on bumpy tracks, I've never run full droop on the MBX5R...it has way too much bumpsteer in this condition.
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Old 01-17-2008, 03:43 PM   #692
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good tip crim3wav3 i forgot to mention that. as far as the optional gearing i beleive that calculates the same as the 5t ratio. leave the diffs alone and ad the 48 spur, gives you more gearing options. the option also cost over 100 bills.
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Old 01-17-2008, 07:01 PM   #693
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too late, i already bought the rear gears oh well, i'll try it and see what happens.

I love this buggy, mugen's parts quality is soo superior to losi, i had three 8's last summer, everything on the losi falls apart.

Anyway. I have the 48t spur, and I'll get a 14t clutch bell to play with the ratios.


can you tell me using the mugen book method for measuring droop, what you run?

p.s. good point about the elongated shock mounts, thanks.
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Old 01-17-2008, 07:19 PM   #694
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tmperformanc1:

106 and 128 is full droop, correct? You're measuring, in mm, from the center of the top shock mount to the center of the bottom shock mount - correct,

just want to confirm.


thanks!
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Old 01-17-2008, 07:43 PM   #695
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fyi....

Stock MBX5/ProSpec/R Ring & Pinion = 40/12 = 3.33:1
Option Ring & Pinion = 38/11 = 3.45:1 (these are the gears you bought)

Basically the option gears are lower so if you install them in the rear diff the front wheels will spin faster than the rear wheels.

MBX5T Ring & Pinion = 46/10 = 4.6:1

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Old 01-17-2008, 07:51 PM   #696
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Tony that's backwards - the option gears are a lower ratio, but, they will make the rear tires spin faster than the fronts when installed in the rear diff.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:03 PM   #697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o.s. power View Post
Tony that's backwards - the option gears are a lower ratio, but, they will make the rear tires spin faster than the fronts when installed in the rear diff.
Sorry, but that isn't correct. The higher the ratio the lower the gearing. So the option gears will spin the rear tires less times than the front making them slower. It takes 3.33 revolutions in the center diff to spin the front tires one complete revolution. But the rear tires will not be all the way around yet as they need 3.45 revolutions in the center diff to spin them around once. I hope that makes sense .
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:05 PM   #698
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basically all your buying is the same gears in truck, you would have to change both fr. and rear. to get the same overall ratio.

i measure from ctr of the standoff to the ctr of the lower shock mount screw. correct. this way is quicker and easier for me so i dont know what the measurement is the other way.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:21 PM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmperformance1 View Post
basically all your buying is the same gears in truck, you would have to change both fr. and rear. to get the same overall ratio.
He didn't buy the truggy gears. Mugen makes another set of diff gears for the buggy as an option. By installing them in the rear the car's front wheels are sort of like in "over-drive" to give it a more FWD affect. I don't see it being a useful option on US off-road tracks.
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Old 01-17-2008, 09:14 PM   #700
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why would u even want to have this mod ?...what would be the real advantage ? and thewholeyearinn why could'nt u keep a 8B together ?
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Old 01-17-2008, 10:18 PM   #701
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The different rear to front ratio is an onroad style setup, where you can have more front drive to pull the car through corners and when it pushes or slips the rear come in to play. If you run it reverse, the rear overdrives and runs like rear wheel drive, till the back end steps out then the front comes into play. Its just an option you can run and depends on your driving style.
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Old 01-18-2008, 05:24 AM   #702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Integra View Post
why would u even want to have this mod ?...what would be the real advantage ? and thewholeyearinn why could'nt u keep a 8B together ?
The advantage I could see would be using the option gearing in both the front and rear, particularly a track with a lot of short run up jumps. I considered this for myself after acquiring both the option conical and bevel gears in a trade. It would increase your gearing options using different spur gears and clutch bells. The down side is, the cost is approx. $50.00 per set.

If you want a new set of the option gears at a good price, PM me.
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:03 AM   #703
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tony i missed the part #s your right. glad to see people testing different setups and options, its the only way to learn and possibly get faster. "THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX"
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Old 01-19-2008, 02:45 AM   #704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulj2 View Post
The advantage I could see would be using the option gearing in both the front and rear, particularly a track with a lot of short run up jumps. I considered this for myself after acquiring both the option conical and bevel gears in a trade. It would increase your gearing options using different spur gears and clutch bells. The down side is, the cost is approx. $50.00 per set.
Exactly my thoughts. I don't think running the option gears in only one diff is a good idea. But if you wanted to gear the car down even lower than the 48T spur gear, then this would work well. Running the car with the 13T clutch bell and 46T spur gear with the optional 38/11 ring & pinion gears is like having the 48T spur gear. But if you run these diff gears with the 48T spur it is like having a 50T spur gear.
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Old 01-19-2008, 03:37 AM   #705
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What do those o-rings in the diff heli gears do?
Should i use them...i've seen that most pros don't...!!
I also want to ask whether a 10/10/3 diff setup would be OK??
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