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Old 12-16-2007, 01:01 AM   #616
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also, how hard are you driving the car? bashing or racing?

cuz ive seen people go months without breakin a part when racing, but they put the car down at a bmx track and it lasts 2 minutes
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:08 AM   #617
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Purely racing bud, after i did the first 2 nylon gears at a meet, i stripped the saver down and inspected it, nothing i could see that would cause any worries, i took most of the tension out of the spring to the point that if i went anymore it would come off, tested the saver and it was fine, then was out at the track today and after about a litre of juice it stripped the gear again, i inspected the saver and it wouldnt budge, its like cause of this spring on the top design dirt or something is gettin in there and jamming it up, very frustrating.
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:09 AM   #618
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are we talking about bind in the saver it self or are we talking pivot balls screwed together too tight? there is nothing about the saver that would cause it to lock up if put together right. you can probably go a long time without totally taking that apart to clean/oil it for it to become an issue for it to be "moving slow". if it locks up there is either very bad bearings in it or the posts are messed up.
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Old 12-16-2007, 10:08 AM   #619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankBlack View Post
Purely racing bud, after i did the first 2 nylon gears at a meet, i stripped the saver down and inspected it, nothing i could see that would cause any worries, i took most of the tension out of the spring to the point that if i went anymore it would come off, tested the saver and it was fine, then was out at the track today and after about a litre of juice it stripped the gear again, i inspected the saver and it wouldnt budge, its like cause of this spring on the top design dirt or something is gettin in there and jamming it up, very frustrating.
Hi Man , Had the exact same problem with the Saver on the last buggy so i changed to the X5 setup with the spring upside down , But in saying that i have been running the Truggy with the Kit set-up ( Teflon tube) and has been good so fair will be running the new buggy with Kit set-up and Teflon tube , not a fan of the spring on top as on our dusty tracks it accumulates dust under spring and binds Mine would always jump the servo arm around a few splines have never stripped a servo though

Any way if you can't resolve it doesn't take much to change over to the old X5 set-up .
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:46 PM   #620
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I've been working on that part. If you don't get on the throttle in the air to bring the nose up, it will nose dive. It seems taking out droop seems to level out the car, but I'm going to try a different approach and see if it works. My local track is not as flat as that track you run on. It has a lot of jumps, both small and large with a 8 pack rhythm section make will make or break you in a race if you can't get over it consistently.
I was having the problem of the car dropping the nose on my MBX5T. I changed the rear wing so that it was higher and had more angle and the problem all but disappeared. I also modified my driving slightly but the solution for me was mostly the change in wing angle.
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Old 12-16-2007, 02:56 PM   #621
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Old 12-16-2007, 07:06 PM   #622
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The best fix I have found for the servo saver is the Hitec 5955 servo. The Futaba s9451 is really not enough torque for 1/8 buggy steering.
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Old 12-16-2007, 07:15 PM   #623
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check the pivot balls.

Mine was binding up it was due to too tighter pivot balls. was ony spotted because my mate runs a 5R and his was smooth and free.

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Old 12-16-2007, 11:20 PM   #624
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Default installing titanium screws for the 1st time....

Iím just about to build a new MBX5R with the Titanium screw kits. What method do you use to start off the threads in the plastic parts?
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:29 PM   #625
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I usually take my body reamer and make a few passes through the plastic and the screw should then start easily. I would not recommend the titanium screws except in low stress low torque applications. It is not worth the loss of strength for what little weight you may shed.
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Old 12-17-2007, 06:19 AM   #626
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Boz - I have not built a new kit with the Ti screws, but I did install them in a used kit. I think I would build the car with the steel and then put the Ti in. I know it will take longer but it will be the safest bet. Make sure and use a nice new driver for the Ti. The heads are softer than steel and seem a very slight bit looser fitting with the allen driver.
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:18 AM   #627
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Ok for the servo saver issue i've been there and i'm sorry but the only fix is to change the servo saver plastics and if i were you i'll get a jr z9100t for the steering.

about the titanium screws if i were you i would use only the top screws since i changed the hole thing in my mbx5t and i'm having traction problems since my truggy is now lighter than my buggy about the threads you just need to be carefull with the wrench it doesn't matter if its on new or old plastics if your tool isnot aligned properly and the screw head free of dirt you will strip the head.
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Old 12-17-2007, 02:58 PM   #628
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Quote:
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Ok for the servo saver issue i've been there and i'm sorry but the only fix is to change the servo saver plastics and if i were you i'll get a jr z9100t for the steering.
Replace with the same ones or change to the mbx5 saver? Im very happy with my 9451 on the steering.
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Old 12-17-2007, 05:15 PM   #629
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Frank you will probably more steering if you switch to a higher torque servo. I also thought mine was fine with the 9350 servo which has a little more torque than a 9451. Then I put in a 9351 and the steering was much better. However I found the plastic gear in the 9351 is not strong enough so I went to the Hitec 5955 and it has been great since July.
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Old 12-17-2007, 09:28 PM   #630
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Im using the new futaba BL451 servos. They seem sweet as. As good as the s9351's.

I havent used any other brand servo but im super happy withthe Futaba's.

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