ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

After looking at the video, are you running the set screws to limit the droop or full droop on the shock lengths? Also, did you notice any extra nose diving with your setup, like over jumps, does it drop the nose or jump fairly level?

OBMIT

droop is set at 10mm with buggy sitting on rim and yes i was getting the rearend comming over or nose diving.

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

I've been working on that part. If you don't get on the throttle in the air to bring the nose up, it will nose dive. It seems taking out droop seems to level out the car, but I'm going to try a different approach and see if it works. My local track is not as flat as that track you run on. It has a lot of jumps, both small and large with a 8 pack rhythm section make will make or break you in a race if you can't get over it consistently.

windellmc

iTrader: (4)

The only change I know of from MBX5 to 5R on the center diff bulkhead is the addition of a clip for the servo wire. It is not needed. You can also dremel on the older steering knuckles to get the same effect as the new ones. You just have to see where the pillowball shafts hit the knuckle and take off enough material to get full steering throw. You will need both front and rear shock towers. If I was going to upgrade an MBX5 I would just do the shocks and towers though. Then I would replace parts as they break/wear out with 5R parts.

For spare parts on any car I recommend front lower arms followed by rear lowers and then front uppers. Pretty much anything else that could break you can replace with a different setting part (front upper arm mounts, front lower kick up block, rear toe in block) to get you through the day. An extra fuel tank is not a bad idea, but I have never broken a fuel tank in 6 years of gas racing.

Extra clutch parts (couple sets of springs and an extra set of shoes) are also good to keep around along with clutch bearings. Shoes generally wear at a certain rate so you know about when they will fail. I like to keep extra shock shafts, boots, and seals around in case of a bent shaft. That is more of a problem with the truck though.

ezveedub

iTrader: (17)

Thats the other way around. The hook is on the MBX5 and the R just has an ear, no hook for the servo wire.

windellmc

iTrader: (4)

OBMIT - The first thing I notice in the video is that your rear ride height seems too high and the front too low. That will make it nosedive. That track looks rough enough that you want the front of you car up more to make it easier to drive. Once you get the ride height set you can use less rear toe in to get the on-power steering back. I'm not sure what your caster and front wheel base are set at but there might be improvements that can be made there.

Can you post your setup?

OBMIT

Standard Mugen Setup. with long springs

Tes now i think and watch ther vid i think the rear was a little high.

windellmc

iTrader: (4)

The setup in the 5R manual? Did you use the little o rings in the diff that go behind the small gears?

windellmc

iTrader: (4)

Hmm...I just checked out the setup at http://www.mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm

and it seems different than what I saw in the manual when I built the car. The online setup looks pretty good although I would go to 5k in the rear diff, 350 oil in the rear shocks, middle antisquat bushing, and go out one hole from center in the front shock tower. We have also been using the higher upper arm bushings and holder and setting the upper arm with 2mm of spacers front and rear. For that track I would also run the front lower arms all the way forward. It will make the car more stable in the bumps and the high speed turns. If you run it shorter the car will be more responsive but I don't recommend it on a rough track.

I would also suggest setting the droop to 15mm and then 20mm and see if you like it better.

I also run the upper hinge pin hole in the rear hub. If you try that remember to take a lot of shock spring spacers out or the rear ride height will be very high. After you do all this you should be able to use the rear toe in to make the car exit the corner correctly. When you have it right you should be able to pull full wood after the middle of the corner and the car should rotate just enough. Less rear toe for more rotation.

OBMIT

Rule of thumb do 1 thing at a time.

Not real keen on 5k rear diff never heard anyone running that high.

Ill start with going back to standard springs and go from there.

Thanks for the tips i will keep them in mind.

Cheers

Tim

FrankBlack

Hi guys back again with another issue with the car. The servo saver after a few runs seems to get clogged up with dust and locks up and ive been stripping the nylon gear in my steering servo, ive loosened the spring off to the point where i cant go anymore, is there any fix for this? i heard one guy at the track was saying you get the normal mugen 5 servo saver with the spring on the bottom to fix?

maximugen

never had any trouble, but it would be worth upgrading to a metal geared servo... plastic gears dont hold much chop compared to a metal geartrain.

apart from that, i havent had or heard of any troubles with the servo saver, perhaps try some springs off other cars if you get desperate.

FrankBlack

I am using metal geared servos (futaba 9451), but they have the one nylon gear in them, and ive stripped 3 in a row

mugenlife

iTrader: (4)

never had an issue with the steering other than my father tightening everything down so far that it bound everything up in the front.....noticed that before i even started the car lol

maximugen

hmm strange. have you pulled down the servo saver to make sure you put it together correctly? otherwise make sure there is no oil or any other residue on the servo saver, that would be attracting dirt and dust.

let us know if you solve it