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Old 06-11-2007, 07:00 AM   #46
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where do you do the dremel work?
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Old 06-11-2007, 12:22 PM   #47
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I got a MBX5R coming from carolinasrc. It's my first build so any tips/pointers on assembly? People seem to complain about leaking diff o-rings. Should I have ordered those too? Are they available at LHS? Also I'm planning on using a Hitec 5997TG for my steering. Is 180 oz/in and .14 good enough for steering. I'm planning on using the .06/128 JR Z9000S for throttle. I'm planning on putting my N21BF rossi from the CEN truggy and putting the LRP in the CEN should I do otherwise? Is this a good start?

Last edited by magbarn; 06-11-2007 at 12:23 PM. Reason: added extra info
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Old 06-11-2007, 01:37 PM   #48
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be careful when threading the aluminum pillow ball retainers, it is very easy to get them cross threaded.

On the steering rods, they will have to be offset so they stay free throughout the suspension travel, when you get to that step, you'll understand what I mean.
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Old 06-11-2007, 04:18 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magbarn View Post
I got a MBX5R coming from carolinasrc. It's my first build so any tips/pointers on assembly? People seem to complain about leaking diff o-rings. Should I have ordered those too? Are they available at LHS? Also I'm planning on using a Hitec 5997TG for my steering. Is 180 oz/in and .14 good enough for steering. I'm planning on using the .06/128 JR Z9000S for throttle. I'm planning on putting my N21BF rossi from the CEN truggy and putting the LRP in the CEN should I do otherwise? Is this a good start?
sounds good just remember thread lock and pay attention to the suspension bushings and thread lock everything metal to metal
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Old 06-11-2007, 05:21 PM   #50
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Hi Tonys Screws, the MBX-5 Standard. As I said I have been doin Dirt oval racing. I had this kid for about two years. So before I put it together. I thought I would bring it up with aftermarket parts to MBX-5R . But when I saw the list on this form and Ad it up it was like 400 dollars. That's pretty close to buying a new one. My hobby shop gives me a discount. But thanks for getting back.
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Old 06-13-2007, 04:54 PM   #51
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sounds good just remember thread lock and pay attention to the suspension bushings and thread lock everything metal to metal
yes loctite everthing metal the first time my kid ran his 5r on a track i bet almost 1/2 the screws worked them selves loose
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Old 06-13-2007, 08:55 PM   #52
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Default CHASSIS FLEXING

I have about a 1/2 gal through my new R and i am noticing allot of flexing in the chassis. I can grab both bulheads and push them towards each other and see the chassis actually bending right in the middle . Pretty much where the spur gear and clutch bell meet. Is this normal
I tightened all the screws, especially the chassis braces. And it still has allot of flex. Is anyone else exsperiaceing this ?
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:00 PM   #53
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mine does the same thing, even with the aluminum braces
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Old 06-13-2007, 10:37 PM   #54
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Just went and checked mine, it does it too. I wouldn't be too concerned.
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Old 06-14-2007, 12:00 AM   #55
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Thats why its the rough king soaks it all up!
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Old 06-14-2007, 08:49 AM   #56
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my chassis has a nice crease that goes perpendicular to the chassis, right through the spur gear opening....thats what happens when you case a clay-built jump It even pushed the rear bearing in the center diff forward and cocked it enough to completely melt the rear lower and upper diff supports (where the bearing sits) from friction....oops!

In all honesty, the chassis has some decent flex. Remember to elongate your body mountin holes in your body...or the body could crack.
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:30 AM   #57
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This, and many others, do flex quite a bit right at the spur/cb, which no doubt leads to premature bearing life.

Are people using the aluminum chassis braces or rod?

What's the indentation for on the left side chassis protectors near the engine?

I've got one coming in this week and hopefully will have it built in time to make it's maiden voyage at Wolcott this weekend.
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:35 AM   #58
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the indentation is for velcro...to secure the body to the side protectors...

Aluminum chassis braces...especially for Wolcott

Ive got almost two gallons on the original bearings I broke in a JP Mod V-Spec with....using 1.1 springs, carbon shoes and a vented 13T CB....mesh is somewhat loose.
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:38 AM   #59
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2 gallons on the clutchbell bearings?
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Old 06-14-2007, 10:34 AM   #60
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yup....i thought it odd too...even after racing at RCE. but i remove them and they still feel very good, so i keep putting them back in ...i haven't raced any 45 minute mains yet this year though...they will be removed before the next race.
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