Mugen MBX5R
11-26-2007, 02:38 PM
#526
Anyone ever had a problem with the centre spur gear binding really bad on the drivecup/shaft? Mine binds so bad i cant turn it with my hand and effectively locks up the centre diff 
11-26-2007, 02:47 PM
#527
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Question... Maybe someone can help who's been in a similar situation.
I haven't raced indoors in quite some time but went Sunday and had a riot.
To the Columbus or Leisure Hours guys, does anyone have a really good setup I could try? I'm open to suggestions and trying new things. I'm currently running the Schwartz setup and did a few changes to get the car to rotate better but it only made the car loose in high speed entries. Seemed like I was really losing out in corner speed the entire mains. Thanks in advance guys.
I haven't raced indoors in quite some time but went Sunday and had a riot.
To the Columbus or Leisure Hours guys, does anyone have a really good setup I could try? I'm open to suggestions and trying new things. I'm currently running the Schwartz setup and did a few changes to get the car to rotate better but it only made the car loose in high speed entries. Seemed like I was really losing out in corner speed the entire mains. Thanks in advance guys.
11-26-2007, 03:38 PM
#528
Did you forget to grease the outdrive shaft when you built the diff? If so, that is the problem. They should be lubed generously with grease before assembly.
11-26-2007, 03:40 PM
#529
Yep i greased them well per instruction manual. I just tried another drive cup and its differenatly the spur gear thats the problem. The way it is now no amount of grease is goin to get it to spin freely.
Last edited by FrankBlack; 11-26-2007 at 03:52 PM.
11-26-2007, 04:03 PM
#530
I have a quick question. My Mugen was running the -1 lower front rear brace on the control arms. What will -2 or 0 offer in terms on steering on and off power? It had the E0112 lower front brace and now has the E0141 installed, so I am deciding what to use now that its out. The car was a prospec setup but now is full R. Car had on power steering, and lost alot off power.
11-26-2007, 05:54 PM
#532
I have contacted mugen about this issue and they are in the process of sorting it out now, great support.
11-26-2007, 05:56 PM
#533
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
cwalters - I would need your whole setup to make suggestions. I ran the following at a smaller high traction indoor track and it worked well for me. It is a little twitchy but that was what was needed to be fast on this particular track.
Front upper arm high block and bushing. 1mm shim in front of arms and the rest behind.
lower arm all the way back.
shocks out one hole from center in tower and outside on arm.
5k front diff oil. stock swaybar
middle hole in ackerman plate. 0 block for front lower hinge pins. 0 to 1 degree toe out.
7k center diff oil with TTR option brakes
5k rear diff oil. stock swaybar
inside hole on hubs for the camber link and middle hole on the shock tower. Hubs all the way back and use the upper hinge pin hole.
2 degrees rear toe (use 2.25 or 2.5 if needed for more rear traction)
2 degrees antisquat
shocks in middle hole on shock tower and outside on arm.
shocks 400 front and 350 rear with the longer grey springs. -2 camber all the way around.
Limit droop some front and rear. It should be close to what the Prospec had stock so quite a bit less than max droop on the 5r. Rear ride height bones level, front level or slightly below level.
Last but not least you must have the right tires and foam inserts. If the track requires M3 you need M3. If it requires Panther clay compound you need the clay compound.
ezveedub - The -1 block has more kickup than -2 but less than the 0. The E0141 also takes away kickup. I would suggest trying the 0 block. It should give you more turn in.
Front upper arm high block and bushing. 1mm shim in front of arms and the rest behind.
lower arm all the way back.
shocks out one hole from center in tower and outside on arm.
5k front diff oil. stock swaybar
middle hole in ackerman plate. 0 block for front lower hinge pins. 0 to 1 degree toe out.
7k center diff oil with TTR option brakes
5k rear diff oil. stock swaybar
inside hole on hubs for the camber link and middle hole on the shock tower. Hubs all the way back and use the upper hinge pin hole.
2 degrees rear toe (use 2.25 or 2.5 if needed for more rear traction)
2 degrees antisquat
shocks in middle hole on shock tower and outside on arm.
shocks 400 front and 350 rear with the longer grey springs. -2 camber all the way around.
Limit droop some front and rear. It should be close to what the Prospec had stock so quite a bit less than max droop on the 5r. Rear ride height bones level, front level or slightly below level.
Last but not least you must have the right tires and foam inserts. If the track requires M3 you need M3. If it requires Panther clay compound you need the clay compound.
ezveedub - The -1 block has more kickup than -2 but less than the 0. The E0141 also takes away kickup. I would suggest trying the 0 block. It should give you more turn in.
11-26-2007, 06:00 PM
#534
Mugen are sending me replacements parts, awesome support, you cant beat that. 
11-26-2007, 09:54 PM
#536
LiPo packs are not "non" maintainance. They do require a specific charger, you must not allow them to drop below specific voltage PER cell, you must balance the charge and they are unstable if improperly charged or gets hit by another car on the track. If the pack bubbles, its gone! Would hate to see your car go up in flames! Stack up buying more than one GOOD lip pack and the price is through the roof. One pack will not do. Trust me, I own a few electric Helicopters, after a while, electric gets expensive too.
I completely agree that you have to be careful with LiPo packs (just like you should be with other types of batteries). They do require proper handling and charging as well as monitoring. But with a little consumer education they're fairly easy to maintain. I will also own more than one LiPo pack, but for the sake of comparing costs, you technically only need one and many guys running these conversions only have one pack. You will also need a charger for your starter box batteries, Rx batteries and Tx batteries so I did not include the cost of a special charger and balancer as they cost about the same.
Best regards,
11-27-2007, 05:54 AM
#537
I was on here because I was curious about a couple things about the R. My mind was already made up to keep the Losi, but I also wanted to try something else at the same time. BTW, its not just the brakes that bug me on the R, its also that the inner hinge pins re not captured and the others that I have mentioned. About your comment with the orings, I assume you can buy them separate? I usually change orings and diff seals (with the Losi) after every race anyway as they are cheap, even though I have never really seen a need to. I just like the extra insurance. Same with the shock orings, but if the shock boot tore, a little dirt usually finds its way to the orings...
I know I want a Mugen, but I found the right choice for me is to wait and see whats next. I really do like some of the designs on the Mugen, and like I said before, it handles just like any pro grade buggy should. Who knows, maybe Ill just get the itch and go buy one anyway...
I know I want a Mugen, but I found the right choice for me is to wait and see whats next. I really do like some of the designs on the Mugen, and like I said before, it handles just like any pro grade buggy should. Who knows, maybe Ill just get the itch and go buy one anyway...
11-27-2007, 10:44 AM
#538
And yes, we all know how well this has been doing in the pro AND club racing scene. I never disputed that.
11-27-2007, 03:32 PM
#540
