Mugen MBX5R
11-24-2007, 04:36 PM
#496
Paul
11-24-2007, 04:54 PM
#497
Paul
11-25-2007, 12:34 AM
#499
As for electric, they are generally heavier, just by the batteries alone, just to get beyond nitro performance. And its not like you can "pitstop" refuel it! If you could change out batteries, just like a pitstop, you're gonna spend alot of money on batteries. Not sure what the craze is with electric conversions. Seems more expensive IMO.
11-25-2007, 07:31 AM
#500
I see it having the following benefits:
1. No nitro engine tuning (yes, I know there are guys who will say "yup, no problems here" but have seen plenty of those same guys messing with the tuning"). Pretty much plug and play. Can't get easier than that.
2. No fumes, No oily Mess, No Noise. You can actually hear what someone is saying next to you, and breathe too when a whole bunch of the vehicles are on the track. this should make it possible to run the vehicles indoors easier than nitros since you don't need the ventilation.
3. No need to buy Gallons of Fuel. Batteries will consistently run (lipos and the like) the same for the vast majority of there service life which can be very long compared to NIMHs (years). This in the long run is cheaper than buying nitro fuel. You also don't need a seperate receiver pack. And with A123 cells which I think are the way things may go, fast charging in 20 minutes or less is possible based on what they state.
4. Lipo and batteries similar can be repeaked after the race is done, so depending on your track (mine usually does 5 minute heats, and 15 - 20 minute mains) you can get by with just 1 battery for the vehicle. Using a higher capacity battery like an 8000mah unit, you run 30 minute main easily. So still only need 1 battery. And even if you do need to swap if running some time longer than that which seems rare at a club level, you are up to two packs max. Again, no pit stops needed till then. And changout is really quick, pop the body off, open the velcro strap, unplug the battery, and install the new one. Again, for most races, this is not even needed based on what guys are experiencing. They are doing pit stops of waiting 8 seconds to simulate what nitro guys do.
5. Power output is beyond a nitro with the common Neu motor. Most of the conversions using the 1.5D Neu motors that will outrun nitro based vehicles race level engines from what others are reporting (see the 1/8 scale electric thread). Guys are actually looking to use 2D or 2.5D engines (less powerful) for more control. The main advantage is the instant spool up which makes it easier to tackle short run up jumps. With the ESCs (Mamba Max right now most common, Monster Mamba Max on the way and sure Novak will have a something better than the HV, and also Tekin!) ability to be tuned with a PC, you can fine tune how you want your throttle, brakes, etc to feel.
Me personally, I love the fact there are no clutch springs or shoes to mess around with. Just a simple pinion. And I don't have to deal with a finnicky engine that may work great one day, and the next decide that it doesn't want to start because its race day. A thing I see as a side benefit is that you don't need to have warm up engine time with the electric. just set them down and go.
Nitro will have its place with many people as I know guys who love the fumes, the tuning etc. Reminds me of those who love to tune stock motors and don't like the whole brushless thing. thats fine, nothing wrong with that. I am just happy that these conversions are around to keep me in the scale.
1. No nitro engine tuning (yes, I know there are guys who will say "yup, no problems here" but have seen plenty of those same guys messing with the tuning"). Pretty much plug and play. Can't get easier than that.
2. No fumes, No oily Mess, No Noise. You can actually hear what someone is saying next to you, and breathe too when a whole bunch of the vehicles are on the track. this should make it possible to run the vehicles indoors easier than nitros since you don't need the ventilation.
3. No need to buy Gallons of Fuel. Batteries will consistently run (lipos and the like) the same for the vast majority of there service life which can be very long compared to NIMHs (years). This in the long run is cheaper than buying nitro fuel. You also don't need a seperate receiver pack. And with A123 cells which I think are the way things may go, fast charging in 20 minutes or less is possible based on what they state.
4. Lipo and batteries similar can be repeaked after the race is done, so depending on your track (mine usually does 5 minute heats, and 15 - 20 minute mains) you can get by with just 1 battery for the vehicle. Using a higher capacity battery like an 8000mah unit, you run 30 minute main easily. So still only need 1 battery. And even if you do need to swap if running some time longer than that which seems rare at a club level, you are up to two packs max. Again, no pit stops needed till then. And changout is really quick, pop the body off, open the velcro strap, unplug the battery, and install the new one. Again, for most races, this is not even needed based on what guys are experiencing. They are doing pit stops of waiting 8 seconds to simulate what nitro guys do.
5. Power output is beyond a nitro with the common Neu motor. Most of the conversions using the 1.5D Neu motors that will outrun nitro based vehicles race level engines from what others are reporting (see the 1/8 scale electric thread). Guys are actually looking to use 2D or 2.5D engines (less powerful) for more control. The main advantage is the instant spool up which makes it easier to tackle short run up jumps. With the ESCs (Mamba Max right now most common, Monster Mamba Max on the way and sure Novak will have a something better than the HV, and also Tekin!) ability to be tuned with a PC, you can fine tune how you want your throttle, brakes, etc to feel.
Me personally, I love the fact there are no clutch springs or shoes to mess around with. Just a simple pinion. And I don't have to deal with a finnicky engine that may work great one day, and the next decide that it doesn't want to start because its race day. A thing I see as a side benefit is that you don't need to have warm up engine time with the electric. just set them down and go.
Nitro will have its place with many people as I know guys who love the fumes, the tuning etc. Reminds me of those who love to tune stock motors and don't like the whole brushless thing. thats fine, nothing wrong with that. I am just happy that these conversions are around to keep me in the scale.
11-25-2007, 08:58 AM
#501
As for electric, they are generally heavier, just by the batteries alone, just to get beyond nitro performance. And its not like you can "pitstop" refuel it! If you could change out batteries, just like a pitstop, you're gonna spend alot of money on batteries. Not sure what the craze is with electric conversions. Seems more expensive IMO.
11-25-2007, 10:26 AM
#502
With electric, you lose that tuning skill that you use with nitro. Thats what makes it fun for me everyweek at the track IMO. You get to see what everybody else is trying also. Don't get me wrong, I've owned electric, and they are easier to maintain, but it doesn't have the excitement of a nitro engine winding up down a straight away coming up on pipe.
11-25-2007, 10:58 AM
#503
Sorry this is of topic but hope its ok: Do i need a regulator if i use lipo with theese servos?:
Airtronics 94359.
I think they are slow and weak with a 1400 mah hump...
Airtronics 94359.
I think they are slow and weak with a 1400 mah hump...
11-25-2007, 11:09 AM
#504
With electric, you lose that tuning skill that you use with nitro. Thats what makes it fun for me everyweek at the track IMO. You get to see what everybody else is trying also. Don't get me wrong, I've owned electric, and they are easier to maintain, but it doesn't have the excitement of a nitro engine winding up down a straight away coming up on pipe.
I know electric stock class guys who are like that with the motors. Everyone has different tastes. Me I can care less what it runs on, main thing is that it runs, and runs consistently.
11-25-2007, 12:05 PM
#505
the airtronics servos require no more than 6v so yes you need a regulator. try a htbatteries 6v regulator or the 5a novak regulator. i use 359's in my 5t with no problems. your pack could have dropped a cell or your charger is peaking too soon.
11-25-2007, 01:08 PM
#506
Well, because of the issues with the stock brakes, and it has a few eclips and PBS suspension, and the issues I hear with leaky diffs, I'll wait to see what the next offering from Mugen has. I'm in no rush to replace my Losi 8, as I've broken less than $20 in parts after 13 gallons of use (of course I have replaced worn parts however) Thanks guys for the insights into this great buggy, but my current thoughts are if a vehicle in this era needs any hopups, it has no appeal to me.
11-25-2007, 02:23 PM
#507
losi's dont have diff issues? i ALWAYS see at least 1 center diff go out at least a month and from what i have seen a few team losi guys say to get it to the point its not an issue you must maintain it inbetween every round ..i use stock diffs on mine and besides switching to 5k and 7k in the center i have not had any issues. i also know people who are on their second losi kit because it was cheaper to buy the kit than to replace the parts that were worn lol
11-25-2007, 02:38 PM
#508
Im not saying a kit doesn't have its issues. On my Losi 8, the diffs wallow out pretty darn easy. I change at least one every race day. If I race in a bigger club event or when I have massive amounts of time between rounds, I would then check EVERYTHING on any kit I buy. Many consider me anal about vehicle maintenance. I just do not want to have to buy 3rd party brakes, and keep track of the special parts one may need for a $580 kit. The only hop-up I have on my 8 are the aluminum rear bearing inserts. Also, like I have said, I am in no rush to replace my 8. I have just finished replacing EVERY SINGLE part in the darn thing after 13 gallons. Don't ask why I didn't buy a new kit (smacking head on keyboard) Also, the 8 has treated me very very well with hardly anything broken. It is a VERY solid buggy, not to say the Mugen isn't, however I also do see many of the Mugen guys at our track go through quite a few A-Arms, or the pivot ball ripping out. I've never liked pivot balls from my onroad days either.
Either way, both buggies will wear, and I know most people do not replace parts until broken. I am not like that, I replace any little worn thing. I know the Mugen is a great kit, but I also love how innovative the 8 is, and how it often lands rubber side down in the event of a mistake. Its also quite a bit lighter, and with my C6bb, the thing flat out flies and rockets out of corners. Anyway, I am not here to diss either vehicle, as both are completely amazing vehicles. My choice is to wait and see what the next offering is.
Either way, both buggies will wear, and I know most people do not replace parts until broken. I am not like that, I replace any little worn thing. I know the Mugen is a great kit, but I also love how innovative the 8 is, and how it often lands rubber side down in the event of a mistake. Its also quite a bit lighter, and with my C6bb, the thing flat out flies and rockets out of corners. Anyway, I am not here to diss either vehicle, as both are completely amazing vehicles. My choice is to wait and see what the next offering is.
11-25-2007, 02:50 PM
#509
Im not saying a kit doesn't have its issues. On my Losi 8, the diffs wallow out pretty darn easy. I change at least one every race day. If I race in a bigger club event or when I have massive amounts of time between rounds, I would then check EVERYTHING on any kit I buy. Many consider me anal about vehicle maintenance. I just do not want to have to buy 3rd party brakes, and keep track of the special parts one may need for a $580 kit. The only hop-up I have on my 8 are the aluminum rear bearing inserts. Also, like I have said, I am in no rush to replace my 8. I have just finished replacing EVERY SINGLE part in the darn thing after 13 gallons. Don't ask why I didn't buy a new kit (smacking head on keyboard) Also, the 8 has treated me very very well with hardly anything broken. It is a VERY solid buggy, not to say the Mugen isn't, however I also do see many of the Mugen guys at our track go through quite a few A-Arms, or the pivot ball ripping out. I've never liked pivot balls from my onroad days either.
Either way, both buggies will wear, and I know most people do not replace parts until broken. I am not like that, I replace any little worn thing. I know the Mugen is a great kit, but I also love how innovative the 8 is, and how it often lands rubber side down in the event of a mistake. Its also quite a bit lighter, and with my C6bb, the thing flat out flies and rockets out of corners. Anyway, I am not here to diss either vehicle, as both are completely amazing vehicles. My choice is to wait and see what the next offering is.
Either way, both buggies will wear, and I know most people do not replace parts until broken. I am not like that, I replace any little worn thing. I know the Mugen is a great kit, but I also love how innovative the 8 is, and how it often lands rubber side down in the event of a mistake. Its also quite a bit lighter, and with my C6bb, the thing flat out flies and rockets out of corners. Anyway, I am not here to diss either vehicle, as both are completely amazing vehicles. My choice is to wait and see what the next offering is.
11-25-2007, 03:53 PM
#510
If I'm not mistaken, the leaky diff issue was the S5 o-rings. They were too small. If you buy new seals, they are thicker than the old ones. I have a older prospec that I updated to a R and notice this when I was rebuilding the diffs. You shouldn't run across this unless you get old stock of S5 o-rings. Only other cause of leaks was stripped threading in the diff case itself not allowing the ring to tighten down correctly on the gasket.