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Old 08-07-2007, 08:17 AM   #271
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standard c6 with 8mm venturi and stock mbx5R clutch can go 8+ min driving like a mad man (more with heavier springs and more when you dont drive crazy)...i will admit it can be a handful but its driveable. i like it better than my nova 3 port (gets about same run time) and it can run faster times than my s7 as it has more grunt to get through the infeild.
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:53 AM   #272
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Hey everyone, I'm not a Mugen owner but I do run Mugen shocks on my buggy and I was hoping someone could help me out with properly filling/bleeding them. Thanks!

-rocky b
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Old 08-07-2007, 12:08 PM   #273
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the caps have holes and the bladder at the top pushes the access out the hole. only thing i do is try to make sure there isnt any air in the shocks if im changing oil
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Old 08-07-2007, 12:50 PM   #274
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So I just fill them to the top, screw the cap on and work the shock to push the excess out? That sounds way too easy...

-rocky b
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Old 08-07-2007, 12:55 PM   #275
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not even, just fill them to the top and screw the cap on tight, all the excess oil bleeds out the hole. Just make sure the bladders are not ripped or pushed in.
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Old 08-07-2007, 10:48 PM   #276
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i fill mine up flush to top, then push piston up to get air from under piston, might have to put a little more oil in afterwards. then screw cap on 2 turns then turn shock to 45 degree angle with the air hole pointing up. start compressing shock shaft in all the way. then slowly tighten cap turning the body and keeping the hole in cap pointing up and still at a 45 angle. keeping it up allows air out before oil. tighten down and ready to go. just make sure you dont over fill the oil to begin with could damage the bladder or cripple it while on the car running. I usually always go a touch under flush to cut down on wasted oil, keep it cleaner as im bleeding air, and make sure I am not overfilling it.
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:01 PM   #277
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Went to replace a broken arm and noticed that Mugen have changed the front lower arms again. Slightly different moulding. Nothing that's going to add much strength, more like a change to maintain a constant wall thickness for a better final moulding.
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Old 08-08-2007, 07:27 PM   #278
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one of the guys at the local track took some video from one of our series races in Burns, TN he jumped around a lot but I think I mixed up one good lap from it. Mugen Mbx5 Prospec with a dynimate 21c. I have more but I'm messing with youtube to get the quality right. still never got my setup for a loomy track. and this was that track. next track hard black dirt with lots of jumps and no straight.

just for reference I'm the white yellow and blue buggy just incase you didn't know my colors

http://youtube.com/watch?v=dlztQCOKmdc

BTW bumped after starting in 4th in the "B" and finished 2 seconds behind 6th in the "A"
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Old 08-10-2007, 11:46 AM   #279
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any body have good base setups for rough tracks
tires are bowties,crimes m3 compound
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Old 08-10-2007, 11:48 AM   #280
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also for an rb-s7 motor what shoes and springs should i use
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Old 08-10-2007, 11:49 AM   #281
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Use the Schwartz set up but go 350-300 shocks and
2.75/-1 rear toe plate.
I would say Mugen alum with 2 1.0's and 1 1.1 spring
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Old 08-10-2007, 11:55 AM   #282
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for toe do you mean (-1/2.75 plate)
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Old 08-10-2007, 12:01 PM   #283
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no, 2.75/-1 anti squat
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Old 08-10-2007, 12:04 PM   #284
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that would be the rear hingpin insert holes on the bottom
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Old 08-10-2007, 12:06 PM   #285
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you are right sorry... I am doing four tings at once here.When it is rough
2.75/-1 rear plate. Neuteral(middle) on the plastic inserts
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