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Old 07-14-2007, 01:02 AM   #181
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thanks tony, but what kind of affect on roll center do they have? I have raced a jammin for the past two years so this is a little new to me with the bushings and all. thanks again
The -1 blocks lower the hinge pin giving you a lower rear roll center. A lower rear roll center decreases traction. Higher rear roll center helps traction on power, reduces wheel spin and tire wear.

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Old 07-14-2007, 10:46 PM   #182
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well I drilled my pistons using a 53 bit. My old setup that I really liked on our outdoor track and our super highbite indoor track was 35 losi front ae 30 rear. well since I was drilling them I thought I will just go with ae 35 front and rear to try and go from there. for tonights racing it was a little to soft. So I went Losi 40 wt front and rear and it was dialed from that point on. I do have a question though according to the oil chart I think it was 32.5 ae for 400 mugen and 30 ae was 350 mugen. Are you guys actually running the cars that soft? although the 53 bit is bigger than a 1.5 I checked it and it was like 1.55 or so. anyways all in all I am very happy with the mugen, coming from Jammin it handles bumps and jumps alot better.
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Old 07-15-2007, 11:10 AM   #183
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"I do have a question though according to the oil chart I think it was 32.5 ae for 400 mugen and 30 ae was 350 mugen. Are you guys actually running the cars that soft?"

I run both my 5R and 5T with 1.5 pistons, Mugen 400 front and 350 rear, white springs all around. This set up works well for me.
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Old 07-16-2007, 06:38 AM   #184
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Default Tuning the MBX5/R

Would anyone be willing to go through the tuning of the mbx5/r, in comparison to the xray xb8 manual that explains everything so clearly the mugen manual fails big style.Tony has helped me so much on this subject i know there is bound to be more guys out there with the same problem, kick up and the placement of the front upper bushings could be another point for discussion.
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:09 AM   #185
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2 shims under each front wheel tie rod stud and 1 under each outer steering arm stud. bushings used placed just like scott hughes worlds set up and same spacers. ride heigth should be close to flat when compressed down and let back up. bones slightly higher then level (just a get in ball park area on heigth only minor adjustments from there. back suspension plate i use the 0,3 toe in. the roughness, amount of jumps will dictate your other settings like shock oil and springs (flater the racing surface the higher the oil weight and spring stiffness. from a standard point on the mugen can you then use info from the xray book to get different characteristics...but remember where you started from and change one thing at a time
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:45 AM   #186
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I've always ran the black 1.5mm pistons with either 350/350 or 400/350 Mugen oil. But I've never checked the actual piston hole diameter on either so perhaps they are actually different (like they could be really 1.3 and 1.4mm or something like that)?

I have a complete numbered drill bit set and a set of digital calipers that measure to .001 millimeters so I'll test the two colored pistons and then measure the bits too.
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Old 07-16-2007, 08:18 AM   #187
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ok, I am going to ask this q again because I keep seeing it people talk about it:

what is scott hughes' worlds setup or any set up from him?
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Old 07-16-2007, 10:34 AM   #188
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http://www.mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm Vray's set up is here give me your email ill send you scott hugh's it used to be on that sight i thought as i downloaded it.. never mind i found it http://www.mugenracing.com/image/rac...scottwcx5r.pdf

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Old 07-16-2007, 03:56 PM   #189
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sweet thanks!
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Old 07-17-2007, 11:58 AM   #190
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I have been running the WC MP777 and am considering a new car. My local track is about 98% Jammins. But I have always wanted to try the Mugen. Is there anything about this car that a person considering it should be aware of?

I know with the Jammin lots of people say the plastic wears out quick. I have also heard that with the Mugen you need a special o-ring set to keep the diffs sealed better, any truth to that.

Any input would be great.

Thanks,
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Old 07-17-2007, 03:29 PM   #191
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the o rings and diff thing you hear about is this - there are 4 o rings that go behind the spider gears, you want to leave these out, they cause the diff to bind and eventually fail because of excess heat due to added, unnecessary friction.

They stock o rings that seal the diff work great and last forever. I have owned several mugens, including a 5R, and they are a great buggy, it goes together really good considering how bad the instruction manual is. They only thing you might want to upgrade right away is the body, the stock one is really thin and doesn't take much to crack.
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Old 07-17-2007, 06:53 PM   #192
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anyone break any lower shock ball ends? i added some droop to my R and since then its been bending/breaking right at where the shock threads in it. almost like its bending there but nothing is bent at all
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Old 07-17-2007, 10:11 PM   #193
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Originally Posted by mugenlife View Post
anyone break any lower shock ball ends? i added some droop to my R and since then its been bending/breaking right at where the shock threads in it. almost like its bending there but nothing is bent at all

Have had this problem on some of the bigger jumps around our area , i think it is just the angle the shocks sit as they are more layed over as for the fix im not sure
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Old 07-17-2007, 10:17 PM   #194
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im starting to think its a chewed up bottom shock boot that is allowing the spring bottom retainer to get cockeyed and when it bottoms out it bends the weakest part... also anyone have any luck with novak exxtra recievers? i have the 5 channel one and all the sudden its become a glitch monster lol
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Old 07-18-2007, 12:19 AM   #195
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Crash- the diffs do leak and there are some different o-rings that you can get.

Ownership of the 5r was brief. I broke 5 arms and bent 4 front inner hinge pins in 2 races no doubt due to the stiffer plastic that Mugen now uses ( though they deny it)

Did the car handle good? Yes. You can throw it into a corner and power out of it with confidence. Dont' run full droop as the cvd's chatter quite a bit. The threaded hinge pins look nice but are a pita when it comes time to change diff fluids. The plastic bushings can be a pita also when trying to get them into the braces.

You do get alot for the money ( tires, bag, toe blocks, etc.) though.

I'm glad it's gone and look forward to my new ride ( 8) which when I first put on the track could not believe how twitchy it was compared to the Mugen.
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