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Old 07-10-2007, 10:30 PM   #166
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Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie View Post
Many thanks. I manage to speak with the Mugen Distributor and he is going to send me the screw set. Thanks.
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Old 07-11-2007, 02:54 AM   #167
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Back to the shock piston talk. so what you guys are saying is they made running changes and some 5R's have 1.4 and some with 1.5 and the way to tell is if the piston is white it is 1.4 and black is 1.5? The reason I ask is I thought I had the 1.5's but the piston's are white. I never measured just assumed.. Not that it really matters I love the setup in the car. but if they are 1.4's then I would like to purchase some 1.5's just to try sometime. thanks
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Old 07-12-2007, 01:46 AM   #168
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When they made the new MBX5T shocks they came with 1.4mm pistons (white) in the truck kits. The old MBX5 and MBX5 Prospec buggies always came with 1.5mm pistons (black). The MBX5R should come with the black pistons. But since these shocks are what's on the truck, it's possible a package of shocks for the truck were put in the buggy kit. Or maybe that's how Mugen Japan packaged them (one batch of a few thousand sets had one piston and then maybe another batch the other piston). Either way, you WANT the 1.5mm pistons. Just drill them out with a #53 drill bit.

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Old 07-12-2007, 07:36 AM   #169
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I thought this was pretty interesting...I upgraded my Prospec to an R and in doing so bought a rear shock kit from CarolinasRC. The kit came with both the 1.5s and the 1.4s in the same bag....I put the blacks on, obviously, but still have the whites. Maybe this couldve happened.
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Old 07-12-2007, 08:35 AM   #170
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Same with mine from CarolinasRC. Set of whites and blacks for the front and rear.
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Old 07-12-2007, 12:23 PM   #171
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can someone help me out with brake setup. what kind of spacing are you putting on the pads say .020 bigger then the disk each side or is there some other special setting I can't find in the instructions. I did the 10mm fuel tubing and redid the linkage but I'm still not sure I did the disk tention right. and do you handle the front to rear bias there or just work that out in the linkage. plus it's weird my end point for brake on my m8 is like 80% and my throttle is like 33% is this normal for a M8?
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Old 07-12-2007, 12:32 PM   #172
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I run a gap about the width of the metal brake pad on each side of the brake disk. When the brake lever is not engaged you should be able to wiggle the pads and brake disk. There should be no pressure contact between the pads and disk when the throttle servo is at nuetral. everything should be allowed to role frealy with no drag brake.

As for the EPA, that seems normal, just make sure with the 33% on throttle that your slide carb is all the way open. Make sure on your brake linkage that the servo does not have to travel real far before even touching the brake levers. My servo moves probably 2-4 mm before the fuel tubing contacts the brake levers and it starts to acctuate the calipers. If there is a huge gap then move the collars closer to the brake levers then you can use less EPA

Hope this helps a little and was sort of understandable. Later, Patrick
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Old 07-12-2007, 03:56 PM   #173
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What springs are u guys running for the front and rear of your Mugen? Shock oil? all help greatly appreciated!
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Old 07-12-2007, 04:18 PM   #174
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I run stock grey springs all around. Oil I run 350 front 300 rear.
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Old 07-12-2007, 05:05 PM   #175
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mugen 350 oil front associated 25 wt rear grey springs. rear camber link on the back is on the inside middle hole....

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/tip/shock.html look to see where team losi and associated oils are compared to mugen and the like
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Old 07-13-2007, 11:00 AM   #176
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50 F
40 R
Mugen oils

car was too sluggish with lighter oils....IMO
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Old 07-13-2007, 01:50 PM   #177
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i have a?? i dont under stand the rear toe blocks . One set -1 then # and one set just has # i think this -1 anti squat but if this is true, then what are the three different spacers that go in the lower rear arm support. The ? is if i run the lower hole shim in the lower arm support with the -1 toe in rear what is my anti squat? thanks
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Old 07-13-2007, 05:56 PM   #178
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The -1 blocks add one more degree of antisquat. But they also affect the roll-center which is why I will not run them. When you run the front bushing in the lower position you will have 1* anti-squat, middle is 2* and upper is 3* with the standard blocks. If you run the -1 blocks, add one to the front, so it would be 2*, 3* or 4*. Most guys will run 1* or 2* with the standard blocks.
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Old 07-13-2007, 06:09 PM   #179
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thanks tony, but what kind of affect on roll center do they have? I have raced a jammin for the past two years so this is a little new to me with the bushings and all. thanks again
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Old 07-14-2007, 12:41 AM   #180
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well I tore down my shocks just to double check and they are white and do measure at 1.4 I thought I had a 53 drill bit but dont 1/16th would be around 1.6 so I am going to go to lowes tomorrow to see if they happen to have one that would be 1.5. Whats funny is my car felt really good so if the 1.5's are that much better I cant wait to try it.
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