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Old 05-01-2007, 05:47 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by MADMAN23
jst as ecy to brake in as any motor.. just run them really rich at first so you see fuel coming out the pipe.... just a head up...
Will do. This will be my break-in and my first buggy (Team Losi 8ight).
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:40 AM   #47
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I did the breakin method they had in the manual. The next one I may do the heat cycling process.

I think my assumption on the tuning is incorrect as I think if I need to give it alittle gas to get it going on firing it up, it may not be getting enough on the low end for fuel. So I think I may richen the bottom slightly.

Since the high end needle I believe controls overall fuel flow, since I have been leaning it out, that would probably make sense to have to tune the bottom alittle more rich?
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:48 AM   #48
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Last Saturday, I was practicing before the races. A couple of the local bad asses were watching me. They were getting ready to groom the track for the raceday, so they announced they needed everybody to finish their tank of fuel and get off the track so they can prep it. I was the last one running laps; one of them yells up to me "Don't F#%@ up, everybody's watching you"... Of course, I screw up right then, they laugh. While I'm running, one guy says, "Is that a P-7?" (I have a King Headz head on it so, you can't tell what it is). That's the best complement for the VG I've had so far. It's a great and powerful running motor, and I'm just about through the second gallon. Even if it only lives 5 or 6 gallons, I'd buy another one.
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Old 05-01-2007, 08:14 AM   #49
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you can run eacyly 5-6 gall if you treat it right...
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:33 AM   #50
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So how are the temps with that Kings Head on it? I was thinking of trying a Nova head.
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Old 05-01-2007, 01:43 PM   #51
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It averages about 260, but it has run hotter a few times. I was having trouble keeping it under 250 when breaking in, and that was in 68 degree weather. In the summer, it can get into the 100s, and I didn't want to have to run so rich it'd slow down. Just by installing the new head, the temps dropped about 20 degrees. It's not a whole lot biggger than the stock piece, and I was a little dissappointed when I opened the box. I installed it, ran and temp checked it, and was then impressed.
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Old 05-01-2007, 02:06 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R40Victim
It averages about 260, but it has run hotter a few times. I was having trouble keeping it under 250 when breaking in, and that was in 68 degree weather. In the summer, it can get into the 100s, and I didn't want to have to run so rich it'd slow down. Just by installing the new head, the temps dropped about 20 degrees. It's not a whole lot biggger than the stock piece, and I was a little dissappointed when I opened the box. I installed it, ran and temp checked it, and was then impressed.

Do you think it is worth buying the new head?
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:27 PM   #53
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Yes, because it dropped the temps, which should extend the lifespan, and I was able to retain the power it was making. Plus, when it finally craps out, I intend to replace the VG with another VG, and I can just transplant the head. As a bonus, the new Ofna high downforce wing I installed is so tall, that it protects the head...not a scratch so far! I normally use the zip tie trick to protect it.
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:08 PM   #54
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were you braking it in a something like payment? and rich the bottom end niddle.... and dont give it over half throttle.. for a least 12 tank then it broken in... then tune it to you likeing...
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Old 05-02-2007, 02:55 PM   #55
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This is probably the 15th nitro motor I've owned... I know how to break motors in, and it's completely broken in. You can almost turn it over with your fingers, because the pinch is that worn so far. Runs like a demon, quick as anything else on the field.
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Old 05-03-2007, 03:56 PM   #56
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I'm just over the gallon mark now and i started to have a flameout prob at the end of the day today, what would be the cause of this?

Engine runs fine, temps around 220-230 and i bileve the lowend is tuned properly. The plug was actually a fresh one today. OS 8

Running trinity 30% fuel

Clutch is definatley not failed and or hanging up causing drag.

The motor runs fine racing (oval) but when you stop to check temp or stop for any reason it will have a healthy sounding idle then it will change tone, idle down & die off completly.
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Old 05-03-2007, 06:24 PM   #57
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Sounds like it's loading up at idle. Maybe lean out the bottom end a bit. Mine does just about the same thing, but runs a little hotter than yours. If you pinch the fuel line at idle, how long before it revs and dies? If it's a long time, you're too rich.
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Old 05-03-2007, 06:28 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R40Victim
Sounds like it's loading up at idle. Maybe lean out the bottom end a bit. Mine does just about the same thing, but runs a little hotter than yours. If you pinch the fuel line at idle, how long before it revs and dies? If it's a long time, you're too rich.

Like he said but more impotantly pinch the fuel line and see how long till the idle revs. It sometimes will take a few more seconds to die.
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Old 05-04-2007, 04:35 AM   #59
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it takes about long enough to say one-onethousand two, then it does the lean-out rev-up

i switched to a a3 plug later last night just to try it and it seems to be fine, i think since it has broken in and lost maybe just a touch of compression a hotter plug may be required?
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:47 AM   #60
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A newbie question - What do you mean by a "flameout"

Manny
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