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Old 07-09-2007, 11:42 AM   #301
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use the contra nut to lock it.

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Old 07-09-2007, 04:16 PM   #302
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whats a contra nut?
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:55 PM   #303
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Default Another Hellfire SS build experience

I found and have been quietly following this thread for the past month. I gotta thank Madhacker for sharing his build and run-in experience online like this, as well as all the other contributors to this thread.

I bought my Hellfire kit at the beginning of June and finally gave it its first run last weekend. Being in the United Kingdom, I had to be patient for online ordered US parts (cheaper) to arrive, but arrive they all did and the long awaited tuned pipe completed the kit nicely.

It's thanks to the wealth of the advice given here that I managed to side-step problems with weak steering servos and slack servo saver settings. I also took some comfort knowing that the same few screws holes were tough to line up, especially the stubborn rear brace.

Learning points to share?
1. Get a really good quality set of hex drivers! The screws strip very easily it really isn't worth struggling with ill fitting tools.
2. Thread lock ALL metal to metal screws. The manual doesn't advise correctly all the places where it should be used, e.g. engine mounts to the chassis
3. Be careful not to forget (like I did) the circular diff holder socket when fitting the chassis top plate.
4. Not all the parts in the manual are numbered correctly, but mistakes were easy to spot.
5. Be careful not to get threadlock around the brake lever posts! You might find the disengaging the brakes a little difficult when it comes to use

Overall build experience?
The UK aftersales service for HPI by Mirage was brilliant. I had to make requests on two separate occasions for missing (diff 0.15mm washer) and replacement parts during construction and the response have been helpful and swift. The contruction manual was clear and the kit was very well packaged in logical stages.

Not really knowing what good alternatives to choose, I stayed safe and fitted the kit with a HPI K4.6 HO engine and tuned pipe, together with an ACE DS1013 servo for steering. After break-in, the performance of the truggy on our local sandy/dirt track was very satisfying even while purposefully running rich. Steering response was fine, with just some understeering. The vehicle was nicely balanced and comfortable to manouvre around, eating up any bumps on the track.

Final thoughts
This was my first kit build and I was pleased with the experience and end result. I like the "tuneability" of the car and look forward to playing with the settings. In the meantime I need to run in the diffs and engine a bit more to fine tune it.

A few pictures for your delectation. First one is the virginal truck before hitting the track for the first time:


Spinning out some dirt...


Enjoying some air...


Thanks Ferdinor for those last two shots. More pics on his website at:
http://www.freewebs.com/ferdinorphotos/sunday080707.htm

I'll post again with any useful experiences to share over the near future. Unfortunately the weather in UK has been rubbish recently, and so it's anyone's guess when I'll next be able to race the bad boy.
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Old 07-09-2007, 05:54 PM   #304
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I like the paint job. The blood splatters give it a good effect.
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Old 07-10-2007, 01:08 AM   #305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milenko_76 View Post
whats a contra nut?
A lock nut?
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Old 07-10-2007, 01:13 AM   #306
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Thanks for the post Dustkicker! Your building experience pretty much validates what I experienced with the truck. I wasn't missing any parts, but the rest of what you stated is very true... especially the advice to get some good hex drivers! LOL, I stripped a screw or two and then decided to go buy some good quality Hudy drivers from my local hobby shop.

The pictures are super! Enjoyed them very much! Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2007, 01:15 AM   #307
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Hey guys, I figured out why my Hellfire wasn't steering so well at the last race I went to... It has to do with the diff conversion, so this might end up being important.

We should have a couple of guys confirm this (I might be the only one this happened to), but here's the story...

I performed the diff conversion using the Savage X SS alloy diff cups. I used everything from the Savage except for the ring gear, the outdrives, and the seal. After the conversion, I noticed that my Hellfire didn't want to steer anymore... it was really bad, plowed around every corner.

After doing some thinking, I started to spin the wheels to feel the diffs and noticed they seemed to have a lot more resistance in the diff action than I would expect. I pulled the diffs apart and noticed that the shim under the larger bevel on the ring gear side was distorted and cupped (see the photo). It became apparent at that time that using this combination of parts caused the diffs to be too tight, so after removing the shim and re-assembling the diffs, everything is now nice and smooth with no extra resistance other than the diff oil.

I was able to take the truck back to the track and try it out with the corrections made to the diffs... it's now turning corners much better again!
Attached Thumbnails
HPI Hellfire SS Kit Build & Long Term Review-hellfire-diff-shim.jpg   HPI Hellfire SS Kit Build & Long Term Review-hellfire-savage-diff-conversion.gif  
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Old 07-10-2007, 02:02 AM   #308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellsavage View Post
Sorry Ithought this was already discussed. The diffs of a Hellfire, in general, have the problem of leaking after about a gallon. To solve this U can put Kyosho P6 0-rings in it, replacing the HPI rings. These rings are slightly thicker so they close the diffs better.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4016
Hellsavage - I can confirm the diff leakage problem now that I've got some miles on my diffs. I will be ordering the Kyosho P6 o-rings and installing on my next diff maintenance. If you look in the diff photo above, the o-rings that leak are HPI #6811. I'll be replacing both the one on the ring gear and the one on the diff cup.

I guess the other option would be to replace the o-rings with new HPI #6811's every time the diffs are opened for maintenance.

Thanks for the tip, and the link!
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Old 07-10-2007, 05:22 AM   #309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadHacker View Post
A lock nut?
Correct
It is standard on the SS sevro raver

Glad I could help on the P6 rings

Last weekend I was racing and noticed a lot of play in the steering.
It looks to be on the nukkels. Do U guys have the same? Other wise I wil rebuild my steering.

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Old 07-10-2007, 05:24 AM   #310
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One more thing
I was talking with a pro last weekend. He told me not to use alu diffs. they get to hot whem driving hard. Whats the experiance U guys have?

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Old 07-10-2007, 06:02 AM   #311
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Alrighty then.. Well I lock tighted the nut and after two tanks nothing is loose and it steers great. I haven't had a problem with my diffs since the convert. I didn't put that shim in because after I assembled the diff it was tight to turn. I completely forgot to mention that. Out of sight outof mind. Sorry.I guess I'm also going to have to order up a few p6 rings also since everyone likes them better. I haven't noticed any problem with the steering knuckles hitting or binding.
These are the tools I use now. I've had good luck with them and sell them at the hobby shop. No complaints yet from customers. Believe me they would complain if they weren't as good as I have made them out to be.
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Old 07-10-2007, 02:04 PM   #312
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I did the diff upgrade and experienced the same issue with the o-ring and the shim fitting too tight, but only on one of the 3 diffs. I just left the shim out on the one diff, the other 2 seem to be fine. Go figure. Last time we raced i did tear up the pinion gear on the rear diff (pre-diff upgrade). The grub screw on the cvd from the center diff came lose allowing the the pinion to walk back and forth varying the gear lash with the ring gear. I had used shrink tubing to keep the screw in but when the screw came lose the pinion would slide.
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Old 07-10-2007, 10:30 PM   #313
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one thing about removing the shim in the diff is that the gear might put more wear on the o ring. the shim is there to protect the o ring and keep the gear from binding on the case. when re assembling the diffs tighten them with the cross method. one screw across the other, and make sure not to overtighten the diff this could put a lot of stress on the gears and could be the cause of the problem. Its not normal for the shim to be deformed like that. just my observation
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:13 AM   #314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Genius View Post
one thing about removing the shim in the diff is that the gear might put more wear on the o ring. the shim is there to protect the o ring and keep the gear from binding on the case.
I thought about that when I removed the shim, however, then I recalled that the old Savage 4.6 SS diffs did not have a shim in this location and they were fine. The o-ring is inset enough in the ring gear that I think it'll be OK. I'll keep an eye on it and let you all know.
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HPI Hellfire SS Kit Build & Long Term Review-savage-k4.6-ss-diff.gif  
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:32 AM   #315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellsavage View Post
Correct
It is standard on the SS sevro raver

Glad I could help on the P6 rings

Last weekend I was racing and noticed a lot of play in the steering.
It looks to be on the nukkels. Do U guys have the same? Other wise I wil rebuild my steering.

mzl Hellsavage
Yes, I've noticed that my Hellfire steering linkage is a little sloppy. It isn't deteriorating at an alarming rate, so I've not given it high priority attention thus far. If it gets any worse, I'll see if I can figure out how to tighten everything up.

One thing I did on my Savage that helped quite a bit was to switch to Lunsford steering parts, and shimmed the servo saver so it removed the vertical slop. I should see if a Lunsford kit is available for the Hellfire.
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